yalan

I've had two so far (and two corrados!) both coupes. Very rewarding to drive especially with a couple of the basic (almost prerequisite) mods. Heavy cars but still move well. My first was excellent and cost me virtually nothing during ownership. The second was a bag of **** and the worst car I've owned. Cost approx £3k in 12 months. I'll not buy a car that has had 'engine work' done on it again.

As title - it should autoclose with the key but it doesn't. Any suggestions? Its a '95 2.0 16v. My last '93 16v had full closure so I know what to do - its just not playing ball with the autoclosure. cheers!

nice work. Try slotting the masking tape down the gap sideways with an extra layer - worked for me! I made the mistake of trying to restore BBS multispokes - I think I counted about 120 flat surfaces on each wheel to sand. Not doing that again! My efforts on Estorils was much more satisfying. look good though - well done!

I always liked my version. Upgraded the dipped beam like all the others but also modified the fog circuit so that when switched to full beam, the dipped, full beam and fogs all come on at once. Fogs also still retained their original function and worked independently with the fog light switches. Also makes it alot clearer to other road users when you flash them with all 6 lights!

yeah: 1) if the 3 mounting points have to be separated, tack in a temporary framework to keep everything lined up and true. Chop it out again when all is in place. 2) don't forget about the seat sag underneath - you might be able to get the seat itself lower, but with the persons weight on top you don't want to find you're sitting on the sliding lever squeezing up through the foam between your butt cheeks!

good luck dude. I too will eventually get round to my DIY retrim too. I went the slightly more extreme route though: eBay brother walking foot industrial sewing machine - 1/2 hp motor and it will sew pretty much anything that will fit under the foot. Just a shame my sewing is ****! you planning to dye the black seats red? I can imagine a cream leather turning a darker shade of red - but black taking on a much lighter surface colour?

aside from the obvious ones, from thomas crown: (though I'm sure some will hink its sacrilege!)

When it happened to me, I called round a few reputable auto electricians and they all suggested that I do what I'd already done (ie check out connections nearby and replace the fuseboard (I got mine from a local breakers for £11 including most relays and fuses!)). A number of fuses doing the same thing could be as a result of shared common hardwiring in the fuseboard? In fact come to think of it, there were 3 showing signs of overheating on my board too.

yes but a fuse blowing is caused by an excess current flowing across the sacrificial link - overloading that part and causing heat. A poor connection will mean an electrical junction is not able to pass the current efficiently causing high localised resistance and heat. The metal in the fuse then conducts the heat and can melt the fuse body. All this well under the fuse's rated levels.

Not necessarily. Lots of heat doesn't necessarily mean excess current through the fuse. It means localised heat - probably caused by a poor connection and therefore high resistance - either of the fuse within the fusebox or connections to the fusebox itself. I'd say Very unlikely to be anything to do with the quality of the fuses - but you never know. Happened to me on my Audi - on the Fan circuit where the AC was on too. High power circuit, high current draw - poor connections equals....... I replaced the fusebox and circuit lucas connectors to the fusebox. Symptom didn't re-surface. HTH

No need to remove the shaft just to change the CV boot. Drop the balljoint down & the cv joint can be separated from the upright. The joint can then be 'knocked off the shaft' over the hidden circlip (which then gets replaced. Sounds easy - though mine wasn't. It just wouldn't get over that circlip. Ended up knocking the while shaft & joint out of the gearbox by mistake! All popped back together nicely though! Pics of the process here: http://www.slybadger.com/cars/s2/cv.htm (though actually an audi not a corrado) and a pic of my corrado c0ck up here!: http://www.slybadger.com/cars/corrado/hub.jpg for more info- search the forum rof a combination of the following words: "boot joint mallet" a good set of results!

you could perhaps quote them the thatcham approval number of the relevant immo? http://www.thatcham.org/security/pdfs/compliance.pdf page 30 lists the Volkswagen OEM Immo systems for your age of car. Could be enough to baffle them!

you think those pictures look bad? There are minor details letting them down - but nowhere near as bad as these....... And this picture is the first one you see on the homepage........

go for butchery! much more fun!

well apologies for the 'bitter' earlier reply! I'm soon to be buying my 4th Toad over the counter and if I'm honest there is one main - and really superficial - reason I keen on going with toad. And that is the fob. You have to fiddle and fondle the fob every day and the toad one is absolutely spot on. Feels robust, well designed and not in the least tacky. All the others i've ever had have been plasticy, chunky or cumbersome (foxguard, cobra etc). If the UI is of crap design, I really don't want to suffer it every day. Minor detail to some I know...........

electronics for the closure circuitry lie centrally within the car. Changing the switch / motor won't do a thing for you.

Or alternatively, you can use ETKA's sister package ETOS which will happily run on 1024 x 768.

is this not a bit of a pointless thread? You're unlikely to get anyone who has experienced all three - so you'll just end up with a load of 'i've got this and its great - there is nothing better' replies. PS, I've got a Toad Ai606 and its great. There is nothing better.

Currently have a Clifford on my S2. Would NEVER have another by choice. Vote TOAD - have had 3 now, and not one has let me down (or got me up) once unecessarily. Everywhere you look people are complaining that their cliffords are playing up. And always there are others saying it is down to bad isntallation etc...... excuses! try using the SEARCH function on this forum and others like talkaudio. heres one to start you off: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14057

sorry - not read your whole post, but the forums at http://www.audifans.net are good for cabrio / 80 /coupe issues. could be useful if they're common issues.

- what are you seconding???

my experiences: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12410 the search function is a wonderful thing! ;)

not a particular high power unit is it? Some HUs can draw a fair bit of power these days - certainly more than OE looms were designed to supply. Other things could be a chaffed wire causing a short? Or perhaps a poor connection somewhere on the block > high localised resistance > heat. HU malfunction drawing too much power? AFAIK brown is indeed the earth (lucky this one had burnt off its sheath not a +12v wire - probably wouldn't have been such a safe journey home had you set off again with a bare +12v wire floating around under your dash!). Get that circuit properly fused for the gauge of wire.

hmm - was trying to make this decision myself. Was originally planning to do a black 1/2 leather / alcantara job - but now I'm thinking cream will go so much better with the green paintwork. Still don't want to go full leather, but picking a matching alcantara for the cream leather is proving a headache........ Anyone got pics of a cream 1/2 leather setup? So far: Got the recaros Got the sewing machine Got the charcoal alcantara Now time to practice!

niether an epoxy nor hot glue will do a decent job. Buth just try to adhere to the surface - which is smooth and gives little for the adhesive to gain a purchase on. Use the right tool for the job!