_leon_

sounds promising. as long as the alloy disks do not bend as the sheets wont be very thick. price wise - have you estimates? i wouldn't pay above what the originals cost - but would really some kind of guesstimate from yourself!

if that was actually possible - it'd be quality - defo keep me posted!

heads starting to wobble now - too many options ;) i only use first for starting off so aren't too concerned about that. i dont think i would fit the CDA 5th to the CTN box - it just seems a little surplus to the rest. the ideal i think is to have the CTN ratios split across 6 gears. you would likely get everything then. isn't the ATB+VR1/2 quite similar to the BBM box?

my paint is the metallic - have a look at my sig link to see if you think its the same.

Would be interesting to see how your box copes with the 1/4 mile. Initially I thought the CBA with VR cogs was a good way to go - and probably keeping the 3.6 g60 FD. However, this discussion has changed my mind. For road use the CTN box would theoretically seem an improvement on that once you learn the ratios. I definately want to get a peloquin fitted to whatever box I go with - i meant anti torque bias rather than the ATB gearbox code! getting confusing now! First step is to see the graphs, and decide on what would be most suitable. In respect to the original question - you've answered it - there are other options other than using VR cogs. Think the BBM box is too track orientated? Would it present the same traction issues as the CBA box you think?

i've tried them a good few times already - i've not yet managed to speak to someone on the phone. so wrote them off as a joke outfit. how they can pay for full page ad's then not answer their phone is beyond me seriously. thanks though - eventually i'll find some

I'm getting mine rolling roaded in a months time so won't know exactly what the changes have made till then. The cam is not one I would have chosen but since it came with the head (big valve head) then I'll try it first before spending further money on another. I found after changing the downpipe for a 4 branch the power band moved higher up the range and that will either happen again or stay the same with the new head/cam. Regardless, the current ratios will feel shorter again now. I'll continue working more on the engine and in time may exchange the charger. So the CTN will likely have favourable ratios - power delivery won't be too far from yours - the cam is the only factor that will be responsible for different behavior. Theres not really a compromise to be had here - at least I can't see one - and one thats easy/cheap. For road, CTN box seems great and there might be info on vortex about the BBM setup. I'm planning to wait till i get some graphs to see what the engine is doing before making any decisions - its not realistic otherwise - but I'm glad there are tried and tested options other than the VR into CBA route. How old is your CTN box? Wanting an atb diff fitted - a rebuild for me is pretty much on the cards.

actually looked - i have the hex ones too - just not the ones with the diamond cut outs so a swap wouldn't have worked anyway - sorry mate

So despite the shifting adjustment - it fits in place of the original CBA with no other complications? Have seen the only difference (of great significance) is the FD used - i'm sold on that idea over swapping cogs etc. Do you feel you're hitting peak at the right times from 2nd up? Depends on where you shift up from - don't often wait till 6000 and never actually 6200 myself

Quality stuff! What you say about the VR gears making 3rd shorter is part of the reason I kicked off this discussion - there have got to be other setups that don't compromise that way. The CTN seems to change the character of the car quite dramatically. For the road its got to be a better solution to the CBA+VR setup. Do you feel 5th gear is more of less lost unless cruising (that might be a very good thing though!...). Even more interesting is the BBM (CAL) box. Agreed for track, it looks a quality option - and far better in my opinion than any combination of the CBA and CHN (VR) ratios. On changing up from 5500 you pretty much hit peak (or close) in every gear. Its the best suited to track I've seen so far and can do 80mph @ 3500rpm which isn't that bad. I've got a CBA box in mine - so same as your old one I think? The vicious acceleration has novelty for a while but that wore off ages ago - and the BBM box would likely suffer the same fate with day to day driving. Is there anything you don't like or feel is missing now you've made that change? What is it that creates the graphs for you? Would be good to see a comparison between the CTN, CBA, CHK and BBM (CAL) boxes. I have all the ratios if you wanted to show me what is used to produce them? The gearboxman one I've used previously doesn't give output as good as that. Did you get the cable selector sorted in the end?

very interesting read. strikes me why the norm is the VR 1,2 cogs. Changing the FD for a VR or even the CTN item makes huge differences. How aggressive do you find the car now? Wanting to make a lot more use of the torque, track it and enjoy the road still

LOL!! quality comment

thats 'light' ;)

lol perhaps the whole package invites attention ;)

got pulled over a few times. i think its just a car that attracts attention

loads - and could do it over again

cool thanks. what do you make of the ignition timing?

i noticed that #3 cylinder injector's lead had lost the plastic coating on one side so i carefully taped it up. but everything is intact yes. i'm hopeless at electrics - sure its simple to do though - can you tell me what to do with a multimeter to check the fuel rail please? and what i should find? engine earths are all ok since i've changed the cam belt, i know the belt is on right and the marks all line up after a few turns of the engine - distributor is set correct and arm points to #1. i dont think i could set the ignition timing yet - am i wrong - is this the culprit?

yeah the vac pipes are fine. and i dont have the old HT leads anymore - but the firing order is correct yes.

Seems like I'm having a right time of it! Have recently swapped over the cyl head for a big valve head on my g60. At the same time I fitted a new-ish distributor off a friend, cheap halford replacement leads (i know..), new bosche spark plugs, cam belt and tensioner and schrick cam pulley. i think thats it! Had primed the engine, started it and it ran fine first time. A little lumpy compared to before, but i put that down down to the high lift cam being used. I turned it off again after a bit to top up the coolant after an earlier refill. Then on trying to start it up again, it refused to start up and resulted in a strong smell of fuel. On removing the plugs, the tips were wet with fuel and fuel was sitting on the top of the pistons. For now I've kept the plugs out to evaporate the fuel. But not sure what could be the problem. It seems to be sparking, all the wiring appears to be intact and connected, rotor contacts cleaned up, timing marks line up correctly... If i continue to try and start it - it will after a while start to run but barely. I don't expect it to run perfectly, but thought it'll still run. Any ideas or spot anything I've maybe done wrong/forgotten? or usual procedure for fault finding? Thanks guys :)

you might see orange coloured build ups if its leaking - think its the antifreeze that causes the colour

what are those gauges youve fitted? would like some of those! looks really good. btw if you remove the filter over the top bulbs in the gauge cluster - youll see the needles a lot better. worth a go

thermostat housing is a good call. watch for drips when running. just follow the pipes around and check the joins - soemthing will be giving way enough to see

anyone? the etka page doesn't complement the bentley manual - see attachment - i could just lose the washer and be done with it - but there must be something thats not right - just need to knwo what is actually the 'correct' way... does the washer used as on the bentley manual above have a keyway cut out? or just a thin disc? anyone know the diameter/depth of the washer? thanks for any help 8)

just lean all your weight on it and it'll go on. otherwise use an oil filter wrench to compress it. check the plastic pulleys before looking at the cam belt tensioner