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have found a washer on the alternator pulley is upsetting the alignment too. i'd remove it straight away but it looks like it should be there and since the cars been undriven for so long i can't remember whether its always been there or not since changing the alternator. Below is a screen shot taken from the bentley manual - can anyone tell me whether their alternator pulley setup is the same please? or if they are using any other washers - not exactly a big problem, but would like to know what the washer is on my car!

:shock: Riley, why the hatred for them now? I'd have said in response that they're a) up to 18 years old and like any car that age are not as reliable as newer cars b) partly down to age again but lend themselves well for modding c) they're quite nimble and well balanced, dated technology but certainly not bad. not rwd/awd though... d) its a coupe! e) they're comparatively basic, not sure why this is listed f) being a car thats had their depreciation value pretty much level out and they can bought for chips, i'd say you can buy a lot of car for little money.... Anyway, to the original topic, you're right, I'm not a dubber, like someone earlier said, I'm more of a german car enthusiast. Don't particularly like jap cars though appreciate them for what they are, but i'd own something from outwith the vag family if its what i fancied in the future. Its sometimes easier to stick with what you know though

thats a great comparison - thanks :)

Cheers. The rolling radius works out pretty much the same. 1mph out in 2 of the gears. Not sure if I am asking a repeat question, a stupid question or if no ones sure? lol

Getting the VR gears will cost around £220 after postage and then additional labour. So I need to establish if its really worth the extra cost. I'm sure I have read better results than the above figures would suggest - but am hoping to get advice/experience from others before going ahead. Theres a few ways I could go - and others are bound to have come across this before... The rebuild is mainly due to fitting a peloquin diff - so might as well do the lot in one go. Baffled sump for sure - hadn't thought about a shift light but makes sense 8)

Ok, I've tried the Quaife tool and got odd readings :oops: so perhaps I'm missing data on one of the fields. So tried the ratio calculator from gearboxman http://www.gearboxman.co.uk/inforatios.html and found the below; * with the g60's standard 3.68 final drive, adding the VR 1st and 2nd cogs didn;t make a dramatic difference - not what people on here have claimed - that 60+mph is achievable in 2nd gear. Granted the G60 doesn't rev as high as the VR. * with adding the VR 1st/2nd gears and fitting a 3.94 final drive for shorter gearing (Vince at Stealth suggested this for track use), the gear ratios are very close to std g60 gear ratios See the attached images. Which makes me ask the questions; 1) What is actually worth doing? 2) Are these ratio calulations accurate? 3) Has anyone fitted the 3.94 final drive with the replacement VR cogs? Or would it be more advisable to stick with the std 3.68 final drive? I know this topic has had various discussion but its easier to ask a series of questions directly related to ratios rather than get stuck in supplier info and 'what fits' discussions. I'm maybe missing something fundamental - if so, please help! Hopefully some of the G60 owners who have already done this work can also help ;) Any help, as always, very much appreciated :D

Ok - think one of the pulleys has been put on incorrectly. Will check later. Priming - removing the hall sender, cap, spark plugs and cranking it over for a minute should do the trick. Please correct me if i am wrong. Thanks

Thanks a lot guys - appreciated - thats very helpful 8)

Thanks. Yeah I thought about offsetting it - but it shouldn't need to as its just been taken off and put back on. the crank pulley has also been removed and replaced - so I can't think what else to do other than refit both. About priming the engine first - I've replaced the cylinder head and not sure what the best procedure is for priming. any help?

I've got my engine back together (G60) and got the fliuds in to start it again...but have 2 issues I need to get sorted out! 1) the water pump pulley is out of line with the drive pulley over the crank pulley - its a groove and a half out. Anyone else had this problem? Or know what face should be looking away from the block? 2) priming the engine - am i correct in removing the wiring harness from the distributor along with the cap and turning the key? Or how do I correctly do this? I've been given the suggeston of checking oil is flowing to the charger oil feed - does this need sufficient pressure before you can check this? Or what else could I check? Thanks for any help

i know this sounds daft - but are you sure all the connections are on tight? if its a whistling noise it could be the drilled holes in the arch lining you really need to do a boost leak test

erm - i had used it for 2 nights and didn't feel i was finding anything other than using vr vogs in the g60 box. i've found good information on vortex regardless.

I'm going to get the gearbox rebuilt and have read that g60 owners usually fit the vr 1st, 2nd, 5th cogs in the process. Has anyone tried any other ratios - or even used custom ratios? What about final drive options? Been through a long (and painful) bout of indecision with the car and now finalised on getting the car on track and getting the full use out of the money I've thrown at it. So the ratios and FD decisions need to be suited well to track in addition to road driving.

what ht leads have you used on the g60 mate?

Lots of work has happened since and I made a list of work done to it since buying 2 years ago... 1991 Metallic Black Corrado G60 154k miles FSH and huge folder of receipts and documentation All MOT certificates Engine and Chassis Engine and gearbox replaced at 52k miles (VAG documented) Jabbasport Big Valve head 285 piper cam Schrick vernier pulley Bosche WD5PO plugs New HT leads G-werks standard rebuild on charger 8k miles ago (been inspected since and perfect) New supercharger oil pipes K&N panel filter All new belts including cam belt, tensioner Rocker cover powdercoated matt black Inlet manifold port matched to head and powdercoated matt black, wrapped in cool tape Vibratechnics fast road front engine mount New OEM rear mounts Redline MT90 gearbox fluid Bosche Silver battery Supersprint 4-2-1 manifold Supersprint full cat back system Polyflex exhaust bungees New Bosche Lambda MKIV rear calipers with goodridge lines New rear disks New wheel bearings all round New front wishbones All bushes replaced with OEM items New brake lines New clutch slave cyclinder Carbon canister removed and associated pipework RSR outlet Boost return removal kit Catch tank New temperature sensors New steering rack, track rods, ball joints Zimmerman Front disks Pagid fast road pads all round Replacement starter motor New Bosche alternator New Knock sensor Low temp fan switch Low temp thermostat New inner and outer CV joints (all) New distributor New crank shaft seal, crank bolt and washer (DX item) All wiring cleaned/taped up 68mm pulley SNS 5.5 chip LEDA suspension new G60 top mounts, stops and bearings New coolant expansion tank Exterior Paint in good condition, though not perfect, due to age obviously Black badges front and rear Smoked side indicators Silver side strips with Corrado enscribed New door handles Lupo GTI wipers Uprated headlight loom with VAG multisocket connectors New headlights Front end respray Borbet B (from E30 M3) 7.5 x 16 ET 20 Yokohama A539 215/40/16R's all round New wheel bolts Borbet locking caps Interior Full black leather (unheated) Full black interior - dash and carpets New solenoids on all locks VAG center console with boost gauge Extra keys cut Just Mats floor mats DDI gauges with reverse filters New water seals on doors Momo Race wheel Passat collapsable cup holder! New driver seat bolster Been off the road for nearly 9 months now while I've slowly worked on it. Can't wait to make this my first car again... A few pics (needs a good clean and polish to get it shining again)...

look like kt4s without the center caps?

on the nugget - what are the wheels? they look 4 stud

APs are the desirables for me

red reminds me of boy racer corsa's. silver, black or gold look great i think. no point in trying to agree on colours though - after all we're all different

thanks - that should be fine then :)

thanks - do they have rivets in the exact same locations? so a straight swap from hand winder -> motor?

gold? that'd look great. would like mine gold as on black cars it looks lush. anyone know where to get gold paint too?

Hi, Can anyone tell me whether its possible to convert a door that has a hand window winder to the later motorised version? Need to know before purchasing a door. Thanks

what are the wheels on schimmels car?

PhatVR6 - whats the name of the wheels on that ups corrado?