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What amp is the G60 alternator? 65A or 90A? I need a new one and want to be sure I'm getting the right one.... Thanks

personally think the colour of the campaigns is horrible - yuck. but those owners may look at mine and think similar :) Anyway, the conclusion : the g60 and vr6 will cost roughly the same.

thats right about the list - i think g60s tend to hit some items on that list quicker due to their age over the vr's. yes i totally understand that about vrs holding value and demand more. given that some thought of late. but due to the age and year - its not a car i'm particularly worried about depreciation costs. Its more about how much you plough into it to keep it running or make improvements etc. It was never deemed to be an investment and due to the initial cost - theres far less to lose than a 2002 car for example.

an oil pump is quite easy to change - just so you know :)

i would personally go for the std head and fmic

get the switch / oil pump issues sorted quickly.

you'll need a custom map so as long as you have enough money for that. remember the farther you go, you quite often have to add other things to match. all the costs quickly add up.

i'd like to know how you determine the belt is slipping - i believe it could - but how do you come to realise that

just stumbled across this - that list is very much correct - that G60 list however just covers items that wear. it doesn't cover general stuff like tyres, wheel refurbs, paint, rubber piping, wiring - and then all the stuff you might find from prebious ownership like locks, more wiring, missing things.... to sum it up - the G60 is not a cheap car until you have cleared all these items off the list. you've then got yourself in a good position to spend money on mods... phew *tired*

am i missing the point here - why not just use the plastic rollers?

i've got the early slam panel - so after a 2 tab one. not the badgeless effort - the std 3 bar grill. i dont really want to be cutting.... any help - really dont want to go to vag for one of these as i bet they are expensive!

i'd be up for that. i like the combination of the ddi gauges as pictured here http://www.oichan.org/mods/lcd/lcd.htm

do those mo's clear the arches front and back fine? i take it they are 16" 7.5" et35's? did you have to raise the ride height or fit stops at all?

hold the spray for 5-10 seconds every month or two and it should be fine. someone will correct this interval/etc if i'm wrong - but its worked fine for me.

Read IHIG60's post on the IHI conversion he's done - good information on there - about 7-8 pages long.

correct me if i am wrong please! usual procedure would be to hone the bores to aid breaking in the piston rings. If the bores are worn - then i think there are three choices - 1) oversized rings 2) boring out or 3) replace the bottom end with a fresher one. However, better to get that clarified.

somewhat more expensive

they're like brothers - those cars

vag seem to use dark grey coloured screws - lots of places do them (or similar) like halfords. but someone here could perhaps confirm

@JMC That looks really good. totally overcome my fear about the needles not showing. thanks for taking the pic - appreciated :) I like it!

blimin heck that was fast... any chance of a shot from behind the wheel? thinking about this - or the blue led route with red reverse lcd

thats my only concern too - the needles dont show up. any fixes/etc for this? JMC i think left the bulbs in but removed the green filter - not sure what else he did though. paint the needles with something?

i was under the impression zimmerman drilled discs were very good. i have had no complaints with them over the past 2 years and they are cheap from GSF.

hehe :lol:

i think thats what these guys are trying to tell you ;)