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Cheers Struan - I'll look into Hi-spec's. Do you knwo anyone with them? I've already had a look for Wilwood brakes and unfortunately they don't make calipers for the Corrado - well not that I could see. The brembo route is out anyhow as I'm just not willing to pay that kind of money for brakes - for £800 odd I could go to the other side of the world and back...

the only reason i don't have these already is that I was planning to fit bigger brakes. i already have 280s - and was hoping for brembos but since their recent price increase i wouldnt bother. I haven't seen anything yet that I could fit in their place (read: yet). But these wheels may convince me to stick with my curent setup for a while longer - if not indefinately ;) yeah if you knew the max size possible - that would be great! i am suspecting 288s... :)

just lovely... what size of brakes are you running?

they look superb! damn it i am very very temped...

damn they do look good.... now if i could find a set that has some sensible rubber on - the ebay ones as mentioned has budget tyres - for that price i'd expect some decent tyres... thanks a lot for the pics - i do like :)

any chance of a pic there matey? i am still very tempted indeed - i think they would really transform the look of the car

ok - can the switch be bought separately or is it a full handle job

only thing is - if you knackered one and they are apparently very hard to get hold of/out of production - then you may be stuck. dunno

160 exchange from ECP

can you tell anymore about that please Supercharged? i assume theres a switch in the handle and that its probably knackered in my handle - causing it to lock immediately and not allow delocking. would that be correct?

well earlier today i was on the verge on letting mr visa get em for me :) but now i realised i must proceed with the important jobs!! mate theres some on ebay right now - go check em out ;)

Anyone got them? Theres a pic here but thats all i can find and isnt very good quality: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/download.php?id=5110 Any others please? :)

ok - cool thanks mate - hopefully someone will be able to clarify that but believe we are on the right track here. as soon as i have my handle back on i will test it. unfortunately the passenger door has the wrong barrel on it...

Ok i'll have to check the total closure when the fixed door handle is back on. Would make sense though :) I am still confused why the driver side is disconnected but the passenger side is still connected!

On taking out my driver door handle for fitting the repair kit I noticed that the lead running from the handle was already disconnected. The female socket that is at the bottom of the door has been taped over. The central locking works fine without the two connected. However on connecting the two, the central locking kicks in immediately and I can't unlock the door via the usual route of using the alarm fob. The passenger side is connected and working perfectly. Any ideas on what I can check?

David, my steering wasn't that light, sure it was assisted, but gave a lot of feedback and was still reasonably heavy. I also had fluid everywhere that was leaking from seals on my rack, so it was clearly time to change. I can't identify specific steering issues related to the rack since I have 2 cv joints that also need replacing (inner and outer). However in a straight line I noticed play when in center position. Since replacing the rack with rods etc I don't have that anymore - theres a night and day difference. Since both rack and rods/ends are new I've alleviated any chance of play in any of the joints. Have you checked the joints that attach the rods to the rack? A thinnish 32mm spanner will do that - just under the boots. Or any of the bolts on the rack? Or the state of the bush under the clamp? The rack itself is a pretty solid unit, so would try and look at the rods and each of the ball joints first. Don't know where to start looking on the column I'm afraid - but I know there are people on here who do - kevhaywire does iirc. Just try and make sure alls good and tight. When I mentioned bushes, I actually meant the bush on the U-clamp that holds one side of the rack to the subframe. I have however changed all the suspension bushes, wishbones, ball joints and bearings quite recently. I haven't yet changed the ARB, associated bushes, drop links and suspension/top mounts etc. and all sorts of relating bolts/nuts. Does that help any?

cant believe just how many rack issues are popping up now - crazy

i ended up doing pretty much exactly what is listed above - seems the only way to get access is to lower the subframe as far as you more or less go. only thing i did differently is drain the pas fluid from the pump (on without the metal end) so i could control where it emptied better. heard it can strip paint!

fitted one at the weekend from ECP - will post up if it fails - but driving now would suggest everything is spot on! Luke - as you know i replaced the rack, track rods, ends and all sorts of bolts, clamps, bushes and seals, cleaned up all the existing pipes and fitted new jubilees and a t-piece - essentially to get a new setup for the power steering system. the results are fantastic - feels like a new car! ask if you have anymore questions mate

if youre driving it around - i'll look at it sooner rather than later. when my pump started to go i found it leasted maybe a week or two at the very most. check it as early as you can tbh. welcome mate.

1) have you checked the fluid in the pas reservoir? is it within the marked levels? If yes, then check your belt on the pump - but I'd guess the pump itself is tired out. It should get worse when on full lock. If not, then top up! You'll kill the pump very quickly otherwise. If its a leak and the fluid just drains, then take off the pulley on the pump and remove the belt with it - this way yuou'll save your pump until the leak is fixed. 2) is the sound coming from the back of the car? If so, its the exhaust on the rear axle. Just try adjusting the fit of the exhaust.

just fitted a recon one from ECP this weekend - not an enjoyable or easy job - especially since I had the car on axle stands to do it. Bloody ball joints on the hub carrier were seized on like you would not believe... But, now the steering is fantastic - better than it has been since I owned the car. Garry wrote up a step by step guide to do it and I found it was pretty much accurate without following it. With the price of either a Seat or recon rack, its not that expensive to do and you'll be glad when you start driving it again with the difference. Anyone unsure of how to go about doing it feel free to PM me with any questions.

I'd like a bigger salary![/quote:a4af6] Wouldn't we all mate - i could get my g60 sorted quicker then

no worries at all - i was just very curious since youve gone the full hog so to speak! i would like your salary regardless ;)

:( secrets secrets...