coolrado

I dont think you can get stainless bolts with the correct torsional rating, you can get stainless caps for normal bolts though.

From memory (last one i did was about a year ago) and this is for early dash only, not sure if late is any different. very carefully remove two plastic covers on lower corners of clock binnacle (black surround around clocks) make sure you are very carefull with them as one side is now obsolete and the clips on them are fragile. remove two lower screws that where behind the plastic covers. remove two upper screws (may need a stubby phillips for these). lower your steering wheel to its lowest possition. remove binnacle. remove two screws that hold the clocks in (one either side). tilt clocks toward you, and unplug any connectors, vacuum pipes, speedo drive cables. carefully lift clocks up out of the slots either side and remove them, be carefull not to scratch the face of the clocks on the metal surround or snap off the reset button that sticks out, it may help to put a towel across the botom edge of the metal frame to protect them. remove all silver screws on rear of the clocks, also remove the two screws that attach the blue vacuum sensor module and pull the module off. carefully release clips around the edges of the clocks and pull the front of the clocks away from the rear. pull dial faces away from circuit board (the dial faces are just on pin connectors and should seperate quite easily). remove any screws attaching the PCB to the rear of the clock pod. unclip PCB from rear of pod and lift out. remove small screws on rear of PCB that secure the white plastic housings that contain the LCD screen (only do one of the LCD screens at a time to make sure you dont get any of the bits mixed up). Carefully lift the white housing away with the LCD screen inside. make note of which way up the screen is as it can be fitted upside down and wont work. seperate the screen from the rubbery contact strips. dip a cotton bud in some isopropyl alcohol, or if you haven't got any some lynx spray deoderant or perfume will actually work fine (and make your clocks smell fresh) and wipe it across the tips of the rubber strips, the contacts on the PCB and the contacts on the rear of the LCD screen (the recessed section), wait for it to dry or wipe off any excess with a dry cotton bud. reassembly is the reverse of the above. enjoy your working clocks and get depressed at how many MPG your MFA tells you your doing.

If anyone has this problem with their clocks and doesn't feel confident enough to fix it themselves, I'm more than happy to do it FOC as long as they cover the postage.

this a very common problem with corrado and mk2 golf MFA displays, its the carbon/rubber contact strips on the back of the lcd display not making a decent contact, very simple to sort out with a cotton bud and some alcohol, i have sorted this on about 8 set of clocks so far and it only takes about half an hour. Usually worth doing the reverse LCD mod or LED illumination at the same time.

couple of pic's of mine after i washed the several inches of mud off it, after i got back from Alltypes show yesterday (was a bit muddy).

just finished reassembling the BBS RM's, have been polishing them since 7am just need to inflate the tyres and get them balanced up and fit them tomorrow 8) No more manky azev A's :clap: .

cheers for the suggestion, if you dont mind me asking, where did you get yours done and how much did it cost you?

Right I am in the middle of getting a forum flag made up for shows, stands ect, I had given the logo to someone ages ago to see what he could do but he has since given up doing vinyl printing so i have gone elsewhere. I already have the 9m long carbon pole and have found someone who can source the correct fabric and also someone who can print on it, the only issue now is what layout people want on the flag and what colour fabric and design would be best. I was thinking the corrado logo towards the top the right way up and the text either "THE Corrado Forum" or "www.the-corrado.net" running sideways down the length of the flag. the shape of the sail flag will be like this and a basic template if anyone feels like suggesting a layout.

The Elring head gasket set i had came with both, the single piece and seperate ones, the original one was a single piece so i used that one.

the Medium Dupont Tyvek covers they sell in halfrauds are a perfect fit, just big enough to tuck under your tyres without touching the floor, but as with any cover make sure the car is spotless before you put the cover on, and never use it in freezing weather. You can pick them up for about £35 when they have sales on.

I wouldnt really complain too much about water in your boot, bikini clad babes will find it irresistable 8)

If the bolt hasnt been changed to your knowlege it should be changed anyway regardless of age or mileage as quite a few have just sheared without warning. At first people started using the DX crank bolt and washer from the MK1 golf, as this was supposedly stronger and less likely to snap. However it now seems like the replacement PG crank bolts have been uprated by vw so its just a straight swap.

there is also a huge thread here with more info on dodgy steering clicky also forgot to mention worn bottom ball joints as well.

where is the play? up&down = worn or broken height adjuster mech or locking pin fallen out. up&down and side to side = steering column bushes/bearings worn out or column not properly bolted on (unlikely) rotational = could be lots of things, loose steering column to lower universal joint pinch bolt, lower universal joint to steering rack pinch bolt, worn out lower universal joint, worn out upper universal joint (new column time), worn out track rod ends, worn out inner track rod joints (usually come with new track rods) loose steering rack mounting bolts and the most expensive one a worn out steering rack. I would start by checking the pinch bolts are all tight as it's free, and then change the track rod ends and maybe track rods as they are pretty cheap.

do you know any of the details of the damage? it doesn't take much to write one off, even a bonnet and bumper seems like enough to write one off, if you know the damage was minor and can show prospective buyers that its been repaired to a good standard it shouldn't effect the price too badly, however if it was more serious structural damage and required jigging or major work then that will put a lot of people off. either way it will effect the price it just depends how badly.

I need to get oil and a filter to do the first oil change since I rebuilt my engine, it's had new pistons, rings, re-honed bores, new bearings (big end, little end, main) all new seals ect, so its basically a new engine again. According to the mountain of receipts i had with the car it had always been fed shell helix 10w 40 oil since it was new on every service, and never used a drop of oil even after 140k miles, so i kept using the same oil. As its basically starting from scratch again what would your recomendation be ? Make - VW Model - Corrado Year - 1991 Engine size/type - 1.8 G60 supercharged Any mods - 68mm charger pulley, SNS chip, boost return removed, mocal oil cooler, windage tray fitted in sump, K&N panel filter (although considering going back to standard filters) Type of use - Fast road Additional info (max oil temps, current oil used) max oil temp since fitting the oil cooler 110c, allways used shell helix 10w40.

according to wikipedia (so it must be true :wink: ) Front number plates are 520 mm x 111 mm (20.5" x 4

The increase in the use of biofuels should boost business for valeters at least, the amount of rape seed pollen that was left on my car when it rained last week was unreal, and it seems to leave marks in the paint on a mate of mines car, his house is surrounded by rape fields.

It's not so bad for me at the moment as i have a company van and fuel card for commuting so the corrado is just for fun. Although it would take a massive increase in fuel prices for me to even consider changing cars, and even then it would be pointless selling it as it would probably be worthless. My G60 averages about 30MPG which i dont think is that bad considering the brand new 08 reg renault clio i hired to drive up to teeside last week averaged 38MPG when taking it very easy and that thing maxed out at 110mph and was a truely horrible car to drive. Yes the fuel prices might have an effect on me but i would rather cut back in other areas and still drive the corrado.

yeah, the guy running the place came across as a bit of a meathead TBH :lol:

didn't even know there was an alloy repair place down here i've got sum kerb marks on these wheels i need sorting out where is this place then? it turned out to just be a tyre place (Tyresave) that would send the wheels away to a wheel repair place, and then charge me a shed load more, when i could just send them myself and save about £50, from what the guy said on the phone they had their own workshop and could repair anything, it was a bit of a wasted journey. they are on the right just as you turn onto dock road from the highstreet.

I just realised where those pics where taken, i was there a few weeks ago looking for an alloy wheel repair place in Connah's Quay and saw your car as i drove past and had a bit of a look at it. 8)

anything other than the standard size plate with standard font will be illegal, its just a case of how noticeable its going to be, anything more than about 10mm smaller is going to be noticable, your only other option is going for a jap style square plate with the numbers on two rows, but that may look even worse.

Spent most of saturday hacking a corrado to bits with a drill and a chissel, (it was allready in a scrap yard) very therapeutic following the recent issues i have had with mine, I had to remove the rear seat support rail as a mate of mine is fitting corrado seats in his mk1 cabby and didnt realise how well attached they are (loads of spot welds), also found a set of karmann badges on a renault megane cabby which i might make use of. Hired a carpet cleaner and spent 5 hours doing the seats, carpets and mats in my car, considering i did the same last year the amount of crap that came out of them was unreal, i did get pics of what came out of them but i think they might be a bit too nasty to show on here. Also fitted the audioscape door pods which have made a massive difference, much more than i expected, and fitted the rear strut brace, which meant modifying the amplifier mouning boards a bit.

Coolrado - quick question matey - is it just the pulley and the non a/c 'pas' belt thats needed for this or anything else like a spacer etc? Does the toothed belt in the kit still remain the right length if setup like this or does it require a shorter one? Yeah you would need the waterpump pulley from an aircon car, V-belt from an aircon car and a shorter toothed belt. No other spacers or adapters needed, the pulley just replaces the standard one. as i said you will be ok as long as you have charge in the battery, usually enough to get you to the nearest services or limp home, without the waterpump you would be lucky to get half a mile before your headgasket went pop.