coolrado

Maybe you could put this in the how to section. Knob Removal for beginners 1. Lift leather skirt around base of Knob. 2. Remove plastic ring from base of knob. 3. Firmly grip knob (using both hands if necessary). 4. Screw knob until it comes off in your hand. :lol:

i thought the problem sounded familiar, and i just remembered mine was a quantum alarm as well not a scorpion, so it sounds like it could be a common problem, shortly after this happened on mine the alarm went a bit mental and would lock and unlock the doors at night and make strange chirping noises before giving up completely.

have you got an alarm that flashes the indicators when you arm/disarm it, if you have its possible the relay inside the alarm has stuck in the closed possition, the scorpion alarm that was on my corrado did exactly that, have a look for the wires from the alarm that connect to the indicator circuit and disconnect them/pull the fuse to find out if thats the cause.

have you checked the fuel filter? maybe some muck has settled around the fuel pickup when it was on axle stands and has been sucked into the filter.

When my sender failed it had managed to empty about half of the oil in about 1/4 of a mile, all over the inside of the bonnet

the reason these switches get so hot is mostly down to the small filament lamps they use for illumination, the heat also causes the plastic parts to go brittle and fall apart, even after fitting the uprated loom the switch was still very hot, there is just nowhere for the heat to escape, best thing to do is swap the filament lamps for LED's as they run virtually cold and you can get 12v ready (dont need a resistor) 3mm LED's in pretty much any colour you want so they are a straight swap.

is the lock barrel in the correct possition? in one possition it ignores the central locking and only opens with the key, or if you havn't used the key on it for ages it may need a good squirt of WD and lots of key jiggling.

It would look cool, but its bad enough listening to the plastic one scraping over speedbumps, i dont think i could bear the sound of a CF one grinding itself away :lol:

And just how do you control the I-pod? with the remote control that came with the dock that you would need to hack up to fit inside the stereo, or use one of the control pads with the lcd display that show all the track info on them. Alpine are meant to be developing a headunit with an ipod slot built into it.

keep the stock tape deck but modify the internals a bit and fit an ipod dock inside it, so you can just slot the ipod directly into the tape slot 8)

the stuff you need is electrocure, you should be able to get it in halfords but it is about 6 quid, best way to use it is to mask either side of the break in the element with some sticky tape wait for it to fully cure and then carefully remove the tape, it does work as i repaired 4 broken elements on my last car and they worked fine for years.

I wonder how much they would be from TVR as several of thier models have the same mirrors.

they dont do it in an aerosol as it has to be mixed with an activator before applying it, i have some on order for doing the rims on my bbs wheels. i have seen it being used on some porsche teledials and the brush marks completely dissapear as it sets, there arent any sprayable laquers that work on bare polished metals as far as i know.

you can get a laquer called glisten pc from frosts restoration which sticks to polished metals, its a two part laquer and is tough as hell once its set, most other laquers will just go misty or peel on bare metal.

if you trace the wires back from the ultrasonic transmitter and receiver they should both connect to a little square box, there should be a dial on that to adjust the sensitivity.

yeah the same circuit that back feeds the fans also feeds the ignition, it wont work if you have an imobiliser (unless its wired very badly).

it allows you to bump start the car without the key, only problem being the steering lock will still be on :lol: same on the polo, golf, passat, caddy, ect. we did this to the apprentices polo on an industrial estate car park, we wedged a lump of foam behind the headlight stalk and left his car doing circles in 1st gear with nobody in it :lol:

actually thinking about it the arm pivots from the left hand side of the car doesn't it? so on the upstroke the spindle would be turning clockwise (tightening the nut) and on the downstroke anti-clockwise (slackening the nut) so it doesnt really make sense, unless it just broke the contact with the ice on the downstroke and gripped the spindle. Its worth just taking the arm off first and checking that the spindle rotates as it should.

it sounds like its come loose on the spindle when it tried to wipe up and just turned instead, and then when it went to wipe down its tightened the nut as its twisted and forced the arm down, you probably just need to slacken the nut off, put the arm in the right possition and tighten it up properly, if it has rounded the splines off you may need to dremmel some new one's into it, or just get rid of the rear wiper completely and use rain-x on the rear screen.

If you replace the sensor and the needle still doesn't move its possible the guage mechanism has become disconnected, it works by a coil of wire wrapped around a bi-metallic strip, the bi-metallic strip bends as the coil of wire heats up when the current through it changes depending on the output from the sensor, some people say to test the guage by shorting the sensor wires together but this usually forces the guage past its maximum travel and it pops off the end of its guide, its simple to sort out though if that is the problem.

not enough :lol: pioneer avx-7300 screen SEAT climatronic panel Pioneer DEH-P8400MP headunit Snooper S6R NEO GPS, Laser/radar detector Sony ericsson HCB-30 bluetooth handsfree Pioneer AVIC-9DVD-II DVD and navigation Playstation extension sockets Dash illumination colour selector switch Headlight height adjustment and a little red button but im not saying what thats for :evil:

the SEAT leon climatronic panel is also a straight swap for the passat or golf panel, all the connectors should be the same and all the pipework and air box are a straight fit apart from one small bit of plastic that can be cut off, I decided against fitting the air con gubbins as its a lot more work as i havn't got aircon to start with, I cant run the compressor with the toothed belt kit and even without the aircon the fans are much more powerfull than standard and it still controls the heat thermostatically and adds the recirculating feature (handy for driving past the local abbetoir and sewerage farm).

top one, just a little bit lower. I tried black centres on my RM's and in real life it made the wheels look smaller, and they where harder to keep clean as i couldnt allways tell if i had got rid of all the brake dust.

If you only want it to wipe once just push the wiper stalk forward twice quickly. and if you havn't got one already, replace relay 19 with a relay 99 from a later passat or golf, later corrado's had them anyway but early models like mine didn't, this will give you variable intermittant front wipe, I did this on the weekend and cant believe I went for so long without it, it makes a big difference.

just remove the inner boot panel and pull the manual spoiler handle out to stop the spoiler from raising, my rack used to clear the spoiler but the pointy spikes on the DMR pedals where a bit too close to it for my liking. make sure there is no dirt or grit where the pads rest on the car or even better get some of that plastic scratch guard plastic film and apply it where the pads rest as they move around slightly and can mark the paint.