jamiehamy

Couple of things I would do first before driving it - with the key in the ignitino and steering lock off, lean in the drivers window and rock the steering wheel from side to side - the front wheels should move immediately the steering wheel does - it you can move the steering wheel quite a bit before the front wheels react, more investigation is needed. You'll need someone else to help do the same test with the nearside wheel. If you have a worn track rod end or ball joint, this might put the wheels into a toe in position and make the feel really light. If you think there is play, get the front end jacked up, grab the whole track rod end and get a friend to rock the steering again - feel for any movement that suggested there is play (you could do this test with it on the ground and on full lock). I'm no expert on faults with PAS, but I'm not sure light steering would indicate rack failure - heavy might. THere are a whole series of other things it could be, but probably best start with the basics. Check all the wheel buts are tight. Jack up the front, grab the wheel at Quarter to Three and see if there is any movement too.

When you say 'started', how do you mean? We've got a Golf R, Mini Cooper and a T25 camper - the steering on the Corrado is the lightest by far - has been for the 9 years I've had it. We only got the Mini the other day and the difference is incredible between that and the Corrado. Everything you go back into the Rado after a while in something else, you always think 'gosh this is light'. Def getting lighter or just noticing it's lightness more now you'd settled in with it?

Really hard to get hold of - I gave up trying to get new shocks for mine and have had to settled with a Bilstein B12 setup. Not put it on yet - I love the standard setup.

If the seal doesn't go, can I have second dibs plz? Thanks, Jamie

Tom, Can I take these please? I only need rears for MOT (can't decide what to do long term) but fronts would be good for spare. Which reminds me MOT is Friday...might have to delay that! Cheers, J

I've had both a T25 and a T4. I've had my T25 for about 6 years now. It was a 1.7d, but I got a 1.9d put in (not the old engines fault, but it's a long story). I love it - drives brilliantly, plenty room, loads of ground clearance. It needs work occasionally, but there's a guy in Inveraray I use who knows them inside out (Wagonbuild). I had a T4 Syncro - hated it, plus it was a total rust bucket compared to the T25. It was the 2.4d and slower than a week in the jail. IF you look after your T25, there is no reason for it to break down any more than any other car. The problem is that people jsut leave things and don't proactively maintain them - much like Corrados. I bought mine with noting in the back and kitted it out using an interior I piked up on ebay and refurbed. Now having full kit and an Eberspacher.

Pics or it never happened :) We're building a house just now, but the garage is going to be rather large - once it's all done, I'll be looking for some projects :)

I put RE002's on last time, but whilst performance was pretty good, they were rock hard and really affected the comfort - and I run standard springs. They were 87W loading, but I noticed the tyres I'd had before were 83, so maybe that was the issue?

I missed this thread but would have been quick to point out that R32 bushes will have zero effect on comfort! I've had the spiggot ring issue before, took me a while to work it out but like you, it solved everything. Once you own a car long enough, you know it inside out and stop finding previous owner bodges :)

What solution did you use for the brick Mat? I've got some concrete I want to try cleaning but not sure what to use.

How gorgeous is that!? What on earth possessed someone to cover that up with wood panelling?

I know, I'm probably just being a bit of a misery guts. Make sure you get the right gearbox - it'll make all the difference and hopefully help your clutch last a bit longer.

Towing a caravan with a Mk1 cab? hmmm... I wanted to put the 2.7Bi-turbo from my old S4 into my T25. The chap I had in mind to do it wouldn't entertain it - said you can't go around fitting engines like that into old cars or vans without a full strip and ensuring it's not got hidden structural issues, and that's before you take into account every single drivetrain item that would need to be renewed. Plus that fact that it would probably be undrivable...si I never did it. Not quite the same as your predicament, but towing a caravan with a floppy old Mk1 cab? It may somehow be legal, but is it actually safe? If you shunted into the back of someone, where would the caravan towhook end up? It you had to swerve, would it just ping off the road? Don't mean to be a misery, but your safety has to come first.

I replaced mine when I did the axle bushes and glad I did. I ended up taking the face off the valve with an angle grinder....not a fun job...I couldn't have done it without the axle hanging down and other parts swung out the way. It's one of these jobs that once you start, you might end up having to do everything. Can you get all your brake pipes off the valve? If not, you're probably looking at new brake pipes. I bought mine from the chap on here and they were perfect - a well worth it investment. I fitted, no other bends needed, tightened and never leaked at all. It might sounds like a lot of work, but actually, you'll get it done in a weekend or two. Piecemeal replacement of pars like the compensator is always hard I'm afraid.

We ended up leaving the bricks at the back exposed and a skim of mortar at the sides like this.

Just check with your man that he'll be happy to sign off with a 'non-original' plate. He should be okay as long as you can prove what model it is and that the palte is the true spec for it. As easypops says, operation of a burner is a black-art in some respects. You need to make sure your wood is completely dried out - it somewhat spoils the experience if it's not, as it will be smokey and not produce good heat. You shouldn't really mix coal and wood - will create all sorts of nasties. I'm assuming your fitter is happy with the hearth and opening? If'he's doig a proper HETAs signed of install, there are set distances between the rear and the wall, the sides, the front for the front of the hearth etc... And yes, as easypops says - don't run it with the door open - might as well just have an open fire and lose the efficiency gains!

Hi dave, if you would be willing to post these, I'd take them. Obv pay postage and extra to package them up if you would be willing? collection from bonnie Scotland isnlt an option for me i'm afraid. many thanks, Jamie

If you don't already have a K&N, I would ditch it and go for MANN or whatever paper filters and replace more slightly often. Cheaper and less hassle in the long run. I had a K&N for years and after switching to paper, never noticed any difference. For spark plugs, I've always gone for BKR5EIX and never had any issue - never sure about the multiple tips.

So guilty you built a garage for everything!

Welcome. At 170k miles, it's a baby! :)

Hi Dave, Can I take the wiper mechanism please? Thanks, Jamie

Hi, I'll take for the asking price if available? Mine is gubbed and the damp weather is making it all sticky so need one pronto! Cheers, Jamie

I'm on 221k, of which I've done 110k in the last 8 years.

My MOT man has commented on this problem the last two years, and he's right. There is a lot of movement in the hinged part causing the back to move a lot when not occupied. Will be interested also to hear if anyone has a solution to this...

For the manifold - down pipes, I run the car until warm, then (carefully) spray Supercrack on them. and repeat a few times. For loosening, I think it's 6 17mm nuts - the easiest way for most of these is to get a few extension bars, and a bar with a UJ on it. Then slide the whole lot up from underneath the steering rack. You need the car fairly high at the front to allow your body right under, but it allows a good purchase on the nuts and proper leverage. For the downpipe-cat - I usually pray they shear and just replace the nuts and bolts. Any clamps I'll tend to hacksaw off and replace as well - not worth the grief to try loosen and then the thing shears on the 5th last turn :) For the manifold nuts, same again with super crack and heat - just your donald duck if the nuts come off, or the stud with the nut. Either way - replace and copper ease. You'll not regret it!