jamiehamy

'genuine and warranted miles of just 149k'. Phew, feeling relieved,there are lots of clocked cars being wound back to a mere 149k miles....

Love it! Did you work on the old Valenta engines too? I am mor of a steam person but old school diesel does it for me too - esp the mighty Deltic!

So sad! You could always sell it as spares/repairs and the buyer could drive it home by booking it for an MOT where he/she stays..it would be legal(ish)...just saying! Could give it a new lease of life if someone is up for a weld job challenge! Enjoy the R32, but I bet you hanker after the Rado again soon enough!

Ah, I get you. Agree - pain in the bloody arses - I've never been able to get mine to clamp on fully. I've made sure the top part is seated in and using the biggest screwdriver I had, have levered the lower one on as far as I can but I can never get it in 100% - it sits firly securely and has never been picked up by MOT man. It's got to be on far enough to clear the caliper a otherwise you get a creaking noise when you pply the breaks and the caliper rubs against it.

If only I had a picture as I did these last week. Assuming you mean these guys? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-MK2-Golf-Genuine-OEM-Hard-Line-To-Flexi-Pipe-Clips-2-Pack-Brand-NEW-/281152811795?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Car+Make%3AVW&hash=item4176037313 The spring clips go on the union between the flexi and the rigid. The join should be at a bracket from the body work (or they'll never fit) - and iird go on the rigid pipe side - the 'pointy' bits towards the bracket, the curved side butting against the union. When you tighten up the union, it'll pull the flexi in towards the bracket and keep it tight against it. Vagcat has the diagram, should help explain. If it's not this bit let me know.

I might have to call VW Germany to confirm this was a Limited Edition, anyone got their number?!

I've had a Bosch S4 for years, never any problems.

Popping, banging and using fuel? Defo check for airleaks, or a pipe off somewhere...first :) Usual suspects are the vacuum pipe on the rhs of the inlet manifold at the front, the pcv piping on the left running into the air intake and the one going into the fuel pressure valve again at the front rhs...talking from experience here! :(

Is it actually misfiring? The reason I ask is that when I did my chains, on start up, it ran like a bag of spanners and we quickly identified running on 4 cylinders. My heart sank at the prospect of tking it all apart, but we were puzzled by the misfire - it didn't seem mechanical. Switched off, unplug the battery, waited a few mins, reconnected, fire up - ran like a dream. Might not help in your cae, but you nver know. Also, would it be worth running it through with engine flush and changing the oil? or even fling a dose of power stering fluid in and running it for half an hour or so before changing the oil. Changing the tappets shouldn't take too long mind you, and make sure they have enough oil in the bores as they are meant to spin round as they operate (so I understand).

Hmmm...my nearside sill is rather rotten - I have a sill sitting so very soon i'm going to have to bite the bullet and open that can of worms. Would be interested to see pics - hopefully it's not as bad as that and that you can find a friendly skilled welder to sort you out. Jamie

You what? You can't be serious? :(

Yes - it would tilt/skew the bush, so you need to use something to keep it flat - I used a socket that fitted in perfectly and kept it flat as it pulled through. It's not ideal, but it does work and I found really easy - bush pulled straight through no problem. I was in fact quite amazed how quickly it pulled through. The threaded section is very slightly bent as a result of me initially not realising that without my 'bodge', I couldn't get the bush the whole way through. Once I ground it away, it pulled through compeltely no tother a baw,

In fact, if you want to use mine, I don't mind sending it down if you can return it. I'm hopefully not going to need it for another 215k miles! PM me if you do, it's no hassle, would rather it got used tbh. Jamie

If you buy the Sealey VS722 (for the Audi A3/Golf 4) and use a grinder to bore out the centre of the large section, it works a dream. I did mine with the axle in situe, but need to be really careful around the brake lines.

I've got Bilstein shocks with standard springs (and a H&R rear ARB) and I love the setup. I'm not sure if they are B4 or B6 mind you. Quite a firm ride, but when tramping on, the bumps are soaked up nicely meaning it's a pleasure to drve faster unlike many Audis or our Golf R which are just too hard in many ways. I used to have the car lowered but much prefer standard height for all round drivability.

Bit of a resurrection, but as I used the page as research, don't see any harm. I did my rear axle bushes a couple of weeks ago. Found it an okay job, however two things were issues - I couldn't remove the compensator valve...so I ended up cutting the n/s axle bush bolt off with a hacksaw and reverse fitting it. Note - I will be doing the rear brake pipes and the valve soon anyway, so will refit the bolt the 'correct way'. The second issue was the tool I bought. I had the Sealey VS722 - Golf Mk4/A3. It did the job to a point, but would not pull the bush through far enough. I tried all sorts, but was not happening, mainly because the bush casing is bigger than the opening in the tool. Solution? Carefully using an angle grinder, make a concave shape in the part where the bush goes when it pulls through - the pic should make it clear. I think the bush needs to be 8mm proud, and this is just a tad over 8mm - seats perfectly. Hope this helps someone before they start the job!

Hi all, I had a problem with the Rado last week - pulled the handbrake on and it just 'gave', and didn't apply. I took off the tunnel plastics to reveal the source of the problem - the forward attaching bolt for the handbrake had pulled through the attaching plate. I was worried that I'd pulled a hole through the tunnel, but maybe this plate has been designed to be the part that goes? I don't generally pull the handbrake on too tight unless on a hill as i always leave in gear too, but with 215k, it's probably had quite a few pulls! Anyway, I need to use the car and managed to find a solution that appears to work, so thought I would share - doubtless someone will have the same issue soon. I found a small piece of sheet metal that was about the same thickness as the offending item. Firstly, I drilled out the 4 spot welds on the forward part of the plate - I decided that since the rear mounting bolt was unaffected and takes less of the upwards pull I'd leave it. Next I used mole grips to bend the plate backwards before cutting it off with an angle grinder. I didn't have to cut right through, as I was able to bend it clean off before I got right through. Filed off any rough edges and corners. Then I cut my piece of metal to size and trial fitted. I temporarily placed the handbrake on and marked when I needed to drill for the mounting bolt. The next task was probably not very technical but worked. I drilled through where the spot welds were. I then cut a cardboard template of my repair piece and put it in place. I used a small screwdriver and some careful 'peeling back' to mark the holes by pushing through with the screw driver where the holes were. I then placed the cardboard over my actual repair piece and marked, then drilled. Note - drill size to use is dependant on what size of rivet you intend using. I used the largest that I had in my Halfords rivet set. Having drilled all the holes in the metal, I then placed the mounting bolt and nut on - LEST I forget and rivet it without it in place! Hopefully all the holes wil align, place your rivets in then pop then all with the rivet tool. The handbrake assembly does foul the RHS rivets slightly - I ground back the handbrake mount very slightly until it sat flush. [*} Refit and reassemble. I would add that I would probably have put a small sliver of weld at the front to ensure strength, but as I don't weld and no-one was about, this had to do. I didn't have the right paints handy and will go back and paint in due course. Hope this helps if you have the problem and let you prepare your solution and have the car off the road for the smallest time possible. Jamie

Hmm, yes but...! Just don't rag it - if you think about it, your car will get up to temperature much quicker if it's being driven than left to idle. I'm probably going against the grain, but at the end of the day, some guy is grumpy about an engine being left running. Unless I'm wrong, I'm not aware that VW think you should leave your engine running to warm it up, so the problem could be solved by stopping running it and wasting your own fuel?! I'm sure our Kevin Bcon used to rant about something similar but not sure if this type of scenario. :) Next time the old guy has a problem/stuck in snow etc... be sure to help him. The world works beautifully when we do things like that.

Just being devils advocate, but warm up why? Doesn't do it any favours surely?

lol, Landsend and Muckle Flugga can be included - extra points for jump suits tho! haha. So Matt...waas that you volunteering? That's one heck of a drive from Hull!

I've had this idea for a while (hopefully it's not been suggested already, if so, apologies) for a bit of fun in our cars, but also to maybe help us all learn something we never knew. So my idea is - each month or so, a list is published on here and the challenge is for forum members to get their Corrado there and take a photograph of the Corrado and the place, and then post it back with some information you learned on the way. Cool points to the person who posts first, but obviously everyone who makes it should post up. I just thought it could be a bit of fun, get us out in our cars, and also provide some interesting information or ideas to other members for places to visit? Anyone up for it? I'd be happy to do the first one but I'd need some volunteers to think of places to put in the challenges - they can be anywhere in the country, the more far flung the better!

Asda Linwood was 55.7p last time i looked - same price as when I converted years ago. I've got an injector issue at the moment, but high on the list when the weather sorts itelf out...along with sill, brake pipes, handbrake mounting, locking, exhaust mount, tyres...sigh!

This is on Ubuntu 14.04 running Firefox 34.0

Chrome on phone, which runs Android.

Glad it's not just me! I've tried it on Chrome, Firefox, iPAd and phone browser, all the same. Thought I would try a few before posting, but can't find a browser that stops it, or at least puts the ads in the right place.