Tekara

StormVR6, Did the new unit solve your problem ? also did the unit contain both the gauges ? I just dont understand how it could fail nothing too them

Fuel gauge has now become rather jerky, very slowly jumps up to its resting point and much the same in reverse when you turn the ignition off. Took the cluster apart doesn't appear to be anything wrong, pod is a little wobbly in its seat but other than that looks like new.

Sadly not, not touch the cluster at all.

Wondering if anyone can give me some advice,the temperature gauge on my VR has started to misbehave. On several occasions from a cold start it has refused to budge from resting point. Sometimes it just suddenly jumps up to 90'c or other times a gentle tap on the plastic is required to encourage it to work. Its intermittent at the moment but i cant see it getting any better. Any ideas what would cause the problem and how to fix ? If its of any relevance ive recently had all the senders replaced and the ignition switch. Should a new gauge be in order could anyone provide the part number. *UPDATE* Fuel gauge is now sticking takes forever to settle

Breater filter £20 from Ford, all the info can be found in this thread HERE Sounds like your not having the best weekend.

Seem to perish with age, the cause of my failure was down to they being removed for engine work. Discovered they were spraying fuel out of the join onto the rail. Scary thing was i must have driven a 100 miles or so wondering why i could smell fuel before i found it.

After seeing it in person id say its worth the effort, so dont loose faith.

Tasty Black J reg G60 with deep dish 5 spoke wheels, parked outside a car rental place in Weyhill this afternoon. Seen it before parked in Martins VW carpark.

As far as i know no Corrado had VW aircon they were all fitted after production by Diavia. As for the storm thing id say its real if its in Mystic blue as thats a storm only colour. Could confirm if its original by finding the paint code on the sticker in the boot. Im sure the storm owners on here have a sure fire way of confirming what it is.

No Corrado part deserves to be attached to that.

Was just about to start a similar post. Currently having the same problem with standard suspension and top mounts. Problem ive got is the passengers side top mount is sitting higher than the drivers side, steering centres 5-10'c to the right. Been in the garage today and couldn't find anything wrong with the parts. Even swapped parts from one side to the other still the same.

6.5 - 6.7 seems to be what the 2.9 is meant to do, dont know precisely. 7.4 sound more like the US 2.8 version.

Bit off topic, Best place round these parts to sort out your wheel alignment is Martins VW, £90 i believe. Car handled wonderfully after a full 4 wheel alignment there. For some strange reason since it went up on a ramp at my local garage the alignments gone :( offside strut is sitting higher. Where did you go for the VAG diag, could do with checking mine over.

Had the C in the garage to try and sort some warm/hot running issues. Engines been running a bit hot for a while, gets upto about 98'c within 10-15mins, never goes over that unless still. At about 100-102 the fan kits in, holds the temps there, once moving drops back to 95ish and cuts out. I've just had the system flushed, new sensors, rad thermoswitch, main water pump, expansion tank and coolant refill. This hasn't solved the problem. Open the bonnet while at 90'c and the fans aren't on. Checked the fuses in the relay housing all fine. Should the fan be on slow speed with around 90'c ? If so how can i test the fan relay to see if its duff ? Finally what's the cost for a new one ?

Sorry bud :( . What happened there ?

You'll be even skinter after buy one, £50+vat

Oh damn forgot to finish this thread, solved my locking mystery. Needed to adjust the rod into the actuator. Riley, should be able to buy a replacement form GPC. Since you have a broken one, get the part number and give them a call.

Yeah i'll have agree with you all, it has become rather 4x4 esk since ive replaced the springs. In high-incite i should have saved up and got adjustables, didnt think it would raise up as much as it did.

You cant get them new any more. You'll have to go second hand, breakers, eBay and forums and such.

Thought it about time i put some images up of the old girl. 95 Aqua Blue VR6, completely standard

Rear Arches on a C are part of the rear quarter panel. Not sure on exact prices but it will be steep.

Just been comparing the two catch mechanisms in detail. Ive notice one slight difference. The lock pin on the right of those mechanisms, on the new one it sits at a lower angle when down than the old one. Doesn't seem to be a way to adjust. I have noticed on the CL thingy in the door there is a thread on the bar, is it possible to adjust this to compensate ?

SpyBall SPK 660, ive got no idea how to change the settings on it :(

Looking for some advice with a rather odd problem with a new door catch. The new catch is some how preventing the alarm for fully setting. Both are part number 536 837 016A Story So Far: Recently i changed the handles and catches on the doors. After fitting i noticed i no longer heard a whirring and click come from the locks, after 5-10 seconds after arming the alarm. Checked the alarm and it wasn't setting correctly. I traced the fault down the to the drivers door, if i held the shut switch in with the door open the second lock stage is heard (whirring and click). Taken the door apart and gone over several things, finally out of desperation i switched the catch back for the old one. Alarm double locks and sets correctly. I cant see any differences between the catches, but they both seem to work differently. 1: Old one operates the alarm correctly by allowing this double lock, the New one does not. 2: New one operates the central locking via the drivers door pin, Old one does not. Any ideas, im rather confused with it.

Slightly off topic. One thing ive been unsure on with spraying, what happens if you unhappy with the work done ?. Do you have any come back ?