Tekara

Sounds pretty good, ive had a little work done cash in hand with a guy at the local VW body shop. I asked him how much for a respray upto window level, said it would be about £1000 maybe upto £1200 with replacing trim and such.

The pipe you are talking about leads into the cabin heater matrix. What temp is your gauge reading ? Im guessing if its dumping that amount of water it must really be hot. Just spotted your another local :D , im near Andover

Ive been fleased for my VR. Not sure on the exact figure as i kept changing bits on the policy, think its around the £1500 mark full comp. First insurance policy so i guess its to be expected.

Could make your own diagnostic software rather than programming an ECU / Map

Well the cause is problem down to a warn / seized bearing in the tensioner. Potential damage couldn't really say, might be nothing at all but could have easily knocked a few things on it way out depending on where it went. Tensioner is held on with a couple of bolts into the side of the head, air box needs to be removed to allow access. What part is gone, or might be easier to answer whats left ?

Tensioner costs about £60 and the belt is about £20, not sure on the exact process of installation. Id take it to a garage and make sure everything else is right.

Just the last few made it onto P plates

Have to agree with you they are fantastic wheels.

would you say its more of a rattle, tapping or ticking sound ? Are there any changes to the sound when accelerating / revving ?

Humm needle is rather speedy upto 20 doubt thats anything to do with the camera

I thought i was common practice to remove the engine to do the chains, but as i found out when i had mine done its possible to be done while it situ. Great when you find a mechanic who doesn't mind you helping out :) nice to see how things work. If your paying to have the chains done, id advise replacing the whole lot, chains, guides, tensioners, gaskets and the odd bolts too. The other parts are small change really after you've bought the chains and tensioners.

Got round to changing the whole lot at the weekend, after figuring out how it all worked it went fairly smoothly. Only pain was i forgot to connect the plug on the drivers door after id put the card back on :mad: Anyway only just notice i no longer get a double lock, it used to lock then 10 - 20 secs later it would make a whirring sound and lock again. Is that the deadlocks kicking in ? How do i get that back again ?

Have you put a meter one the battery while the car is running to see if the alternator is providing sufficient charge ?

Never done this before, but i hear heating the mouldings up first loosens the adhesive allowing an easier removal. No idea on what you'll find underneath.

Ok with a clearer less frustrated mind set ive taken the C out for a gentle spin to better identify things. Apologies now for unnecessary info. Within a few yards of the driveway upto 2000rpm noise became reasonably audible, its not loud sound its just there. Seems to be particularly noticeable at low revs 1000 - 1500rpm, the higher the gear the more noticeable it was. After roughly 5 mins oil temp started to register along with the water. Once that happened the ticking became slightly less noticeable, again more predominant in higher gears. After about 15 mins water had reach 90 and oil about 98. Further 5 mins or so temps settled at there usual 97 water 100-102 oil. Ticking became quite faint then, gave up and came back. The ticking is dependant on throttle position while in one gear, quite faint with minimal acceleration upto distinct at half - full, keeps a constant speed though. Other oddity might not be related is at around 1800 - 2000rpm the car becomes rather hesitant, very quick on off power sensation not jerky, until you get past 2100rpm ish.

A none aggressive drive for around 30mins will return 90-95 water and 102 oil. Little more spirited and creeps upto roughly 100 fan might kick in for a second and upto 108 oil. Temperatures have deffo crept up since Christmas was dead on 90 then, but there again that was winter. It might be leaking water now you mention it, every now and again i need to put a tiny amount back into bring it upto the middle join on the tank. Think you might be onto something, did you every fix yours ?

Thanks for the info, sounding like its possibly not the CV or Bearings. I'll have spend a bit more time looking into this. Just hope its an easy fix PhatVR6 Will have to take the car for a spin to confirm, but im pretty sure its the same from cold. Other than this(touch wood) car has been behaving well, pulls hard, sounds good. Dont mean to sound like an idiot but what you do mean by "hot running problems"?

Same here, trying to get into mechanics just not picked the easiest thing to fix. I appreciate your input hope i didnt seem rude.

dr_mat, ive been thinking along those line of CV / Bearings. If it was those would they not exhibit problems all the time. VR6, Hope its not the chains not long since had those replaced, im pretty sure that the noise is coming from the drivers side, I had this problem after i bought the car, i then had the timing gear changed around christmas Other parts ive recently had changed are the front engine mount, and aux belt & tensioner. Other random thought id had was possibly one of the pumps, but again would that not be constant noise rather than power dependant. Wish i knew more about mechanics to diagnose these things.

Had this problem with the VR for a while now but haven't managed to identify the cause. When accelerating you can hear a quick repetitive tick..tick..tick sound coming from the drivers side of the engine bay. Its very faint but still audible, really only noticeable around the 1200 - 2000rpm, after that engine noise drowns it out. Its a constant sound doesn't seem to vary much with speed, as soon as you let off the power it goes away instantly. Ive tried revving the engine in neutral when still, also tried to doing this while coasting, neither cause this ticking so im guessing its possibly not the engine. Over the last few days it seems to be getting slightly louder. Any suggestions ?

Fitted new door handles and catch mechanisms, then after getting bored with that job started replacing the ISV silencer and pipes.

Couldn't seem to find the answer with the search. Can someone with ETKA confirm what the door handle part numbers are for a 95 "C" Reason i ask is i just order a pair from GPC and received the following 535 837 206E 535 837 205E These ones dont have the lip around the barrel like the current ones, ive read that the difference between early and late handles?. Im planning on replacing the door catches and handles this weekend, just dont want to take the doors apart to find out there wrong. Thanks

Found today while going round a mini roundabout that its now making a dry rubbing / grinding noise. Doesnt do this when turning left (not that ive tried on a roundabout) This a bearing noise ?

I bought my C from a lady driver shame she had run it into the ground and appeared to have a love for car park pinball. Not that im implying all women do this, she was a bit of an eccentric. Needless to say its well cared for now.

Had mine changed recently, couldnt be bother with changing the bearing so closed my eyes and signed a cheque, wasnt too painful