.A.N.T.

This is just a quick question, I've done a search and I'm 90% sure these will be ok, possibly need a spacer but we'll see how they go. Just want to be 100% sure before I hand over lots of hard earned for them... Will a 17x7.5 ET38 with a stud diameter of 114 fit on my little 16valver? cheers!

How much for???

Excellent!!! When I get the new roof in I'll set that up (will involve pinching my mates door handle though as mine is delocked!) One less thing to concentrate on whilst driving, Cheers! mine is a 92 J plate, so would this still work?

Yeah, I have to go by wind noise as to whether it's closed properly or not. Doesn't matter anyway as it's not working at all at the moment and a glass roof is (almost) on order... Probably something has broken off in the mechanism... Cheers!

Just a quick question. My mates H plate has click stops on the sunroof, so when going from Up to back he needs to take his finger off the button then push it again otherwise it just stops in the close position. Are they supposed to do this as mine doesn't... (keep finding these subtle differences between mine and his (both originally 1.8 16v his an H plate, mine a J)

Firstly I've done a search and can't find anything specific to this... Have checked all the fuses and they're fine (everything in the car works as well (apart from the sunroof, but that's a different story)) and the spoiler works from the manual switch, but it won't go up at 45mph. Have checked for the blue wire in the back of the dash and I can't see it anywhere. Also nothing's been done t the stereo recently so I don't think it's that (though there is a blue/white wire which is for the amp-remote turn on). The other thing (the part I haven't found on search) is that the MFA won't go into position2. It'll reset position 1 so the switch is working (ie. hold it to the left and it blanks the readings) but it won't go across to position2 for the manually reset MFA... Could these two be related?? Cheers, Ant.

I'm thinking of doing this, have taken so much of the car off now it all seems to rattle. The old padding would just disintegrate in my hands as the panel came off. Anyway, was thinking of doing up a bass test type noise going from about 40hz to 4000 or so in cycles so you can stick that on and it'll make the panels vibrate so you can find all the squeaks. Will be easier than with music as it'll be a constant bass and there won't be any singing or percussion over the top of it. Might do that tonight. If it works I'll post up an MP3 so anyone else can do it...

If they're all black then they can fail the MOT due to having no reflectors... I was once followed by a copper who tailed me for a mile or so, when I pulled up at my g.friends house he put on his blues and got out. Thought I was in the shit, but couldn't think of anything I'd done. turns out he just wanted to look at the car (my old Golf with a rallye front) and he said that with no reflectors on the back, if someone hit me from behined when it was parked the insurance might not pay out cos they could justifiably say they didn't see it... He then let me go, but said a less friendly copper might give me a caution/whatever they do if he say me... (Didn't put the reflectors back on, jsut swopped over the lights to the originals when MOT time came... :wink: )

Coventry to Dorking 123.5 miles!

550w PSU Should be enough to power the washing machine as well!! Just looked up Tensol... £20 a bottle!!! crikey!! Might well crack open the silicone again!!! After all it is the same stuff they sue to seal fish tanks... :?

Legal? Loks nice, but having just uprated the loom and bulbs a little counter productive!

Bingo, thanks!! Knew there was stuff out there, just didn't know what it was called! WIll use this to join it all up, then the silicone to seal it. Cheers!!

His lights look too dark? Has he tinted them???

Yeah, have seen, and known about the slack FM performance for ages, just put up with it!! They're marketed on ebay as being FM/AM aeriels... Thoughts on looks? I recon they'd be ok, and if I changed my mind the old one could jsut swop back on. Also it'd stop pikeys from pinching the screw off bit! (happened to my g-friends dads car parked outside his house... :x )

Just wondering how the reception is through them? I know as standard the reception is awful, so I'm thinking of putting on a shark fin aerial. Would look ok as well I recon.... thoughts?

Got a few of my bits from overclockers, quite a handy forum there as well... Might have another go with the silicone then... The pump on mine is off the molex connectors so theres' no forgetting to switch the thing on... :D

I've tried the silicone... I was after something a little stronger. Not my ride (not yet anyway) but my PC case, hence the need to be stonger than strong as a water leak may well cause a few problems! It's turning into one of those projects which you wonder why you ever started it!!

Got mine done last month, can't believe how nice the car feels now... Like driving a new car! (think they were proper shagged when I had them replaced!) Now just need to sort out the 1001 other things that are wrong with it...

I've got some perspex, 4mm stuff, cut to shape to make a box, but I don't know what the best stuff is to join it up together. I want a permanent join that will be able to take a bit of pressure, not a fantastic amount but enough so it won't jsut pop apart if you breathe on it. anyone have any ideas?? (if it works, then I'll post up pictures of what I'm up to.......)

Can you pull the pump out and then use wires attached straight to the battery to test it's working... I had a problem with mine, but it was 8 years ago so i can't really remember. Something to do with a rubber flap that wasn't sealing properly inside the pump so it wasn't flicking a switch. Mine was making the noise though, just wasn't doing anything... Try sucking on the pipes as well, see if they lock the doors when you do - indicate whether there's a leak in the pipework... Sorry for being vague, just it's been a while since I took one out!

sorry!! Am rebuilding my computer at the mo, so it's 20 reboots an hour, so didn't have time to trawl the search option... (just being lazy really!) Looking about, it seems like a ball-ache.... MIght hold off and wait for some 4 studs....

I've been offered some nice 17's cheaply, but they're 5 stud pattern for a VR6. How much hassle is it to get them to fit onto a 16v car?? I assume I'd have to change the carriers, but how much grief would that actually be??

Could you explain? Next to the metal of the inlet manifold, on the first elbow of rubber there's 2 rubber hoses coming off, but they don't connect to anything. There's another hose attached to the bottom of the air filter housing that moves the thing inside the airbox so when it's cold it gets the warm air off the exhaust. There's also a pipe next to the airbox with a sensor/clip attached to it. Do you know how these should be wired up? There's only one plastic tube that comes round from the back of the engine to connect all this lot up to...????

Aww go on!! Give you something productive to do with all that time you spend polishing!!!

I cleaned the air filter today (and changed the oil but I don't see how it could be that) and now the car won't start!! I think I may have pulled on the vacuum lines as I moved the airbox dislodging something important but I have no idea what should connect to where on the vacuum system. Does anyone have a diagram so I can replace the whole lot so it's all airtight again? The engine starts and runs for a second before stalling like it's run out of fuel. I'm guessing this is a vacuum problem as I can't think of anything else I've done to it today! Anyone have any ideas??!