fla

Also, clean up the spark plugs - check their condition before to get an idea of the firing of each cylinder. Replace as necessary. use some easy start on HT leads, check throttle body for any varnish or crud and clean up. Maybe throw a bottle of redex fuel system cleaner into a tank. I did an engine 'flush' on a new purchase - drained old oil, filled with new, brought up to temp. Drained again, replaced filter and refilled with fresh oil. New air filter. Check any air hoses for splits or breaks. Check hose clamps to see if they are free and haven't cut hoses. I would also spend a bit of time on relubing the brakes and checking everything moves freely.

Dox has highlighted a very important point, often overlooked by many unsuspecting owners. Idling is really not good for a car, drive off as soon as possible, but of course give it time to allow the oil to warm up before using a heavy right foot.Long runs are always better for an engine as compared to short trips. I would sooner get a car with 120k miles used as a motorway driver than one that's pootled around for 15 years but only done 10,000 miles

tbh i usually just use 95RON, 98 is too pricey for me!

Any updates on any changes/mods to the fuel system for e10?

I've done the outer skin to prevent vibration, but only done one door card with open cell insulation. There's very little space between the door card and inner skin which means the insulation really needs to be thin....which again reduces its effectiveness. Its made a difference but i want to identify the noise source properly as the existing foam inside the door card does help a bit. And allows the door card to fit back properly too! Hasan

I've started on my roof trims too. Need to straighten them a little as there are a few bends, not quite sure how or why.. Sean, dont the seals come with double-sided already applied?

doing the floor was a weekend job comfortably. Its more time consuming removing the interior. But once that's out i just laid out the rolls in the car, roughly marked them, cut the rough marks and then tidied them up outside the car. I didn't bond the layers, perhaps its better to do so but thinner single layers are easier to manipulate and position. Doors have been trickier as i tried to trace around the old foam, which firstly wasn't that easy to remove in one piece and then secondly kept sticking to the new insulation. I've only done the drivers door so far so need to complete the remaining three panels at some stage - need to make some time to complete, tbh. But the car is SORN'd at present, so I've been a bit lazy, with in fact another project (yaris 1.5 t sport) for my son

Welcome back! Your Corrado was the smart looking twin of mine.. Current supercharger knowledge seems to be towards the Rotrex c30-94. More efficient than the vortech, smoother power delivery and very little power loss due to the way it is operated.

thats a good shout Dragon - the rear parcel shelf. Did it have any effect on the struts holding the boot lid open? Its an iterative process as no sooner than you've sorted one noise source you find another. Plus rattles and squeaks then tend to become more noticeable.. Hasan

Some shops just sell product without any explanation of how or why or what, although others provide details on what the products do. CLD (Constrained layer damping) material like Damplifier (as i have used), Dynamat or that Dodo Mat essentially aid in reducing panel vibration - which causes the tinny noise you hear on some car doors. To be honest this doesn't really affect/reduce road noise to a great extent. It is better for improved acoustics from your sound system as the panels then dont vibrate. What you need for that is an open cell foam which will absorb airborne noise and convert it to low grade heat energy. The problem is open cell not only absorbs noise it also absorbs moisture! So there is a belief that closed cell foam does the same but is better as it does not absorb moisture. Not really true - closed cell foam does indeed absorb sound to a lesser extent but is essentially a decoupling layer. You then overlay this with a mass loaded layer like mass loaded vinyl which acts as a blocker for any sounds. This must be decoupled from the body or any panel otherwise it can actually cause the sounds to be amplified. So your layers need to be (in this order from the noise source): Stick-on panel damping (Damplifier) Closed Cell foam Open Cell Foam Mass loaded vinyl The issue again is the thickness of all of these - put them on the floor and your seats wont fit back in. I haven't done the bulkhead on mine but might get a cheap sound meter to try and isolate the actual sound location. In theory most noise comes through the floor and doors, but it may also be that a superior type of door seal is also required, which i will look into. Hope that helps Hasan

perhaps a plan for next year?

It is, yes. Its a motorised throttle body

Welcome back Kempy! I remember one of your signatures as 'Kempy likes Corrados' or something similar. Anyway, good to have you in the fold again.

convert to obd2 and all the stalling issues disappear! I do find its one of the best overall mods for a VR

Congrats on the wedding Tony! Corrado would have certainly been a statement there too 🙂

I think shaun just wanted to show off that rather nice looking momo wheel there!

Welcome Wilko, you'll certainly find a wealth of information here and we're quite a chilled bunch too! Do post up some pictures of your car when possible

great idea - a better version of one of the solutions i was thinking of trying, so its good to know it works.

Looking to try a few solutions on the roof strips but will be cutting them to send profiles and to do a few other trials. So looking for a set that would otherwise be heading for the tip! Once something works out I'll post up Thanks Hasan

You can open the fuel flap if you pull back the boot liner in the rear quarter and pull back the locking rod

Ah yes the famous hockey puck pcv! I used to have an A4 B6 which had the same one. I guess a few elbows could be used to connect it? Although like you say, with a NA engine is there sufficient pressure to allow it to operate?

yes the 1.8t pcv sounds interesting..any details Shaun?

i've recently joined fb - but only for a few groups, one being the Corrado group there. A lot of US sellers and takes a while to sift through things

info on a lot of the heavily modified corrados seems to have disappeared. I'm always keen to know where they are, eg this one, Coxylaaaad, a20 Lee, Renshaw, Haywire and the r32 conversions. KIPVRs superb R32 was up for sale recently but no idea what happened to it

will you be lacquering them? Some fantastic work there