Rob_B

yep used the qpeng stuff. i did make the loom myself though to save some money. no problems installing it, it really is so simple to do! done 2 conversions now using the qpeng stuff. and Ben at qpeng is a top bloke. is that the route you are going down?

cheers for taking the time to post pics. Don't apologize mate,engine bay looks good to me. I really couldn't care less about bling.Did you make that boost pipe yourself? Which 20vt engine are you running then? hows she go? thanks mate, i dont subscribe to the bling thing either. a mate of mine made the boost pipe. its made up of segments so that the internal area of the pipe is the same throughout all the bends in it. if you have a single piece pipe with bends in it, the internal diameter of the pipe in those bends with be reduced quite a bit. im running and ARX engine from a skoda octavia 4 x 4 elegance!! so im not sure it would have had a hard life until now! it goes like a train! makes 20psi, so a total of 220bhp and 236lb/ft torque. it can be a bit enteraining when it comes on boost when its a bit wet, it just starts wheel spinning in 3rd gear at 50mph! alot of people say the 20vt is a dull engine, but that is due to the excellent mapping that vw do to make it a smooth drive. i dont think a serial port remap will make it much more fun. as im using MBE management, the mapping is completely different, and the engine feels a completely different beast! really shocked loads of people havent done this yet

yep thats right. on the original pipework for the breather system, there is a "y" piece which joined the rocker cover outlet to the pipe coming from the oil filter housing. this pipe then went into the turbo intake pipe (tip) i never put the breather hose into the tip as the pipework gets too messy and its really tight round there. i did have 1 filter coming off the y piece, but i found that this y piece collapses and was all split, so i ditched it and just put another filter on the rocker cover

the pictures arent very good as there is quite a bit of pipework and wiring going on around the breather area. i apologise for the state of my engine bay, but i have spent more than enough time under the bonnet in the last few years, and im happy to close it and drive it! :wave:

less is more, minimalist tuning

the 20v has a blank on the oil filter housing where you can fit the g60 oil temp sender. the sender is wired straight into the clocks, not to the ecu. no adaptors needed

that would make a change! im good ta, u? not got any g60 stuff left, except a lambda probe i think! where did u get a G60 from then?

they will work alright like that, the pressure from the inlet manifold will be the same in all the pipes

you need a tape measure mate, ive got one for sale if you are interested

the thing with that hose is that it collects a few other hoses on the way to the breather outlet on the top of the head and then into the TIP. as long as you do somethin with all the outlets then you wont have a problem. i took that pipe you are showing and fed it into a small K & N filter, and did the same with the breather outlet on the rocker cover. you could feed this into a catch tank, i just find there isnt loads of room on that side of the engine bay as my TIP and my pre intercooler boost pipe run that way

which engine are you running? i have chopped mine about a bit but it does it the same job

if you can wait until the weekend, and let me know what pictures you want, i will get some sorted for you

a machine shop will machine a flywheel for you. mine cost 30quid. i would be surprised if you noticed any difference on a standard engine

it is a breather pipe. it connects to a couple of other breather pipes and leads up back into the turbo intake pipe. it doesnt need to be connected back into the system if you can put up with a little oil mist. i put a small filter on the end of mine. it is also a pain in the arse to plumb back into the turbo intake pipe when you start putting big boost pipes in, there isnt alot of room!

do not get a gsf header tank and cap,they dont seal properly and will give u all sorts of problems

ive been thinking about this, and i 100% have not been under the car to fit the shifter. it can be fitted from the top, just requires some brute force in places as its tight! get it in, only takes about half an hour

i cant remember off the top of my head as i fitted mine about 3 years ago! i really dont remember getting under the car to do anything, and def not taking the exhaust off as it only took me about half an hour to fit. its bloody tight to get in, but with some not so gentle persuassion it went in. the shifter is bolted in from the top, its just tricky to get in and out from the top which i think is the problem. if you dont mind doing some levering with a screwdriver or similar, it will go. this is all based on an early g60, might be different for later cars? i also remember doing a repair on the roadside to my mates b&m in a mk2 golf with a cable shift conversion, and we def didnt go underneath

i managed to fit my short shift kit from inside the car... so much better than the original shifter, loads shorter! a little notchy, but i like that, gives a positive feel on the shift

the higher rev limit of the 20v will let you hit 60 in 2nd with the g60 box, well mine does anyway!

yeah emu sorry, if the car is misfiring and backfiring under hard acceleration at about 5000 rpm, it is almost certainly the coil packs that are failing. which engine code is it? i paid about £30 for each coil pack from VW last year. it can be a pain trying to find which one it is, a process of trial and error. i just replaced all 4 and was done with it!

its the coil packs that are failing

does the land rover intercooler run metal end caps? you need 1 with metal end caps if you are running decent boost

i fitted a neuspeed thermostat and rad switch on my 20v not so long ago, and i have ditched them and gone back to genuine parts. not convinced the parts work that well in my experience. i would stick to the genuine parts

any particular reason you want to keep the towing eye? the golf rallye intercooler is a perfect fit if you remove the towing eye. golf g60 intercooler retains the towing eye i think. merc sprinter will fill, just. (think you need to remove the eye though) if not do you know anyone who can ally weld? if so, get a cheap universal one off the bay and modify the end caps.

ive done it, it really is a doddle. i converted mine in about 2 weeks of evenings and weekends. also done the conversion on my mates golf. we both built the loom ourselves (electricians by trade) to save some money. if you bought the loom ready made it would be even easier. we had the engine stripped of all its ancilleries and unnecessary bits and on the mounts in my car in about 3 hours. software is excellent, Ben is very helpful and the service is excellent. dont think you can ask for more