Rob_B

hello mate and welcome. sounds like you know where you are heading with your conversion. the qpeng set up works very well and is an easy solution to the engine swap. Ben at qpeng is very helpful aswell. he has just made a map for my mate who has a gt28rs on a BAM engine, but it needs tuning on the car. 270bhp should be acheivable with one of the engines with a K04 on. you could get any engine and bolt that turbo (plus injectors etc) on and get the same results. so i wouldn't be so concerned about getting a BAM engine (unless you really want a steel crank) as they seem to be silly money. most 20V engines are going for good money at the moment so i would probably take what you could get! well there are a few of us with 20v turbos in norfolk, so give us a shout if you need some help try http://www.ec-dc.co.uk

find me an engine and bring it to me and i will do it for less! :lol:

yep replaces the wire from the original ecu which goes to the fuel pump relay under the dash

if you want a BAM engine then be prepared to pay top doller or wait a while for a bargain to come up. they are usually the ones people want. as for cost, well i would expect to see a BAM go for £1200+. conversion costs vary, there are a few ways of doing it. if you are paying someone else then expect a fair size bill. slotting the engine in is easy, making all the pipework is time consuming. gearbox, stick with a 5 speed G60 box as it fits straight on.

give it a little while mate and you will see that they over fuel, watch the fuel consumption! so no worries about running lean. also, the oil temp sensor can be put into the top of the oil filter housing. there is normally a little blank in there (same place as G60)

very true my firend, very true. even more so with these cars

DBW is mapped so crap from standard though, it feels like the car is going to be a rocket from the first few cm of travel, then that is it!a real let down. then its also hard to modulate the throttle on part throttle, making pull aways embarrassing! 60bhp - 80bhp is what they got on the 911, but it was a safe 60. he then said by fitting a better flowing exhaust there was another 20bhp there, so the owner is doing that. i guess that isnt too bad considering its still on the standard managment, would be more if you put standalone stuff in there. i would still like a go in it though! :lol: i think they had fun on the road tests though!

thats a fair comment, and i completely understand where you are coming from. i would still say that there is alot of work going into to unlocking the standard codes and mainipulating them. i was talking to an engineer the other day who had got hold of a manual 997 turbo for a remap. he is a revo dealer and revo hadnt got hold of 1 for mapping, so their lead engineer came down to write the map for it. they spent 2 weeks and 200 runs on the dyno along with road testing just to change the map and get 60bhp out of it. at 55quid an hour on the dyno + paying for a top engineer for 2 weeks, the costs add up! i write software for machinery, and know that it can take ages to do the simplest thing, where the costs add up. that must be why they charge x amount for a generic map, simply because the development costs are big.

you are paying for their time to develop a map and test it though, not what they actually end up doing. if you can do it yourself, it would be cheaper, but that can be said about all skilled labour cant it? people moan about being charged £40 an hour for what i do, but if you can do it yourself then you wouldnt need to pay me. im sure you appreciate the effort that goes into mapping Kev. if you can map someones car for less then i would get out there and start making some money :)

yep the wire comes from plug G pin 8 on the fuseboard get a manual and i will tell you which pages to look at, dont want to scan anything as its very frowned upon on here!

the 12V supply does not run to the fuel pump (wrong direction), it is however derived from the same place within the fuseboard (internally). so this means that the same fuse in the fuseboard supplies the fuel pump motor and the 12v supply for the lambda. however, they come out of the fuseboard in 2 different places, so they are 2 seperate wires. od you have a bentley manual by any chance?

the plugs are indeed labelled up alphabetically, but some letters are 2 o 3 plugs e.g. G1, G2 etc. then each plug has up to 12 pins i think. it is all labelled on the fuseboard, but it can be a real tw@ to read. just to clarify, each plug has a letter (A,B,C1,C2 etc) and then has X number of pins. so plug G1, pin 8 is the 12V fror the lambda heater. I hadn't read that you had checked these (30 pages is way too much for me!), but this is the route i would check. certainly wont harm to do it if you we cant think of anything else :( correct, the 12v for the heater comes from the fuseboard! only the signal wire goes to the ECU

the plugs are indeed labelled up alphabetically, but some letters are 2 o 3 plugs e.g. G1, G2 etc. then each plug has up to 12 pins i think. it is all labelled on the fuseboard, but it can be a real tw@ to read. just to clarify, each plug has a letter (A,B,C1,C2 etc) and then has X number of pins. so plug G1, pin 8 is the 12V fror the lambda heater. I hadn't read that you had checked these (30 pages is way too much for me!), but this is the route i would check. certainly wont harm to do it if you we cant think of anything else :(

there will be plenty of opportunity to take then engine out when it breaks!

leave it in unless you really want to take it out. will be pain if its not been taken out before as you will have rusted nuts and bolts, the inlet and exhaust are an a-hole to remove in situe and its probably alot harder than you think. the front mount can be changed quite easily, worst case take the front end off to change it. rear mounts need the engine to be jacked up somewhat. dont worry about painting the block, alot of hassle to do that!!

without reading the whole thread, i would say it sounds like a lambda problem, as taping up the WOT switch eliminates the probe from the system. so if it were me, i would make sure that there is 1. a good earth to the probe (straight to batt) 2. 12V across the lambda heater wires (if not it wont work, and if there hasnt been it will be shot) and 3. the wire to the ecu is in tact and not shorting somewhere. bearing in mind that the signal is done on only 1V (0-1), any loss will mess the ecu signal up which relies heavily on the lambda on part throttle. apologies if this has been covered, but this is my initial thought after reading about 3 pages 12V on lambda probe pin 1-derived from fuse S18, which goes to plug G1 pin 8 (on fuseboard). this fuse also supplies the fuel pump on a different plug. 0V on lambda probe pin 2-derived from negative terminal of battery 0V on labda probe pin 3-derived from engine mount, but is usually crap, so change. lambda probe pin 4-derived from pin T25/2 on the ecu. again, this needs to be checked carefully.

sounds cheap to me. thats not alot for someone to install the ecu and wiring, potenially alot of time there. at 30 quid an hour or so, it wont take long to knock up the £'s in labour

sounds logical to me!

im going to take that as a genuine thanks rather than sarcastic! :) im afraid that without looking at some mk4 golf wiring diagrams, i couldnt identify the rev counter wire. it will come out of the ecu somewhere, just not sure where. did you manage to sort out the temp guage wire?

gotta take the towing eye off to fit a rallye cooler, a worthwhile sacrifice i would say!! get the hacksaw out!

nice. i couldnt be bothered with that route. in that case, i would imagine that the rev counter signal is still derived from the ECU, but as to which pin ive nop idea, wiring diagram time

are you using a qpeng set up? if so, the rev counter wire is derived from the ecu. ive converted from a g60, so the rev counter was also derived from the ecu, so joined the two together

def dont put a resistor in there! its only the clocks that are reading wrong, not the ecu

its the purple wire on the 4 pin temp gauge, the wire that goes to the clocks that needs the resistor. you need to find some wiring diagrams that will tell you where the rev counter needs to be wired into the clocks. i cant remember off the top of my head where it goes. ill have a look at my wiring diagrams over the weekend

30ohm resistor for the temp guage and that will bring it back in line you need to make sure you have the rev counter wire in the right block in the fuse board. the corrado clocks should all have the same rev counter