Rob_B

its normally the towing eye that is the sacrificial part for a big intercooler upgrade, well worth it though!

no they dont do drive by wire, which means you will probably have to source another throttle body (£130 for ECP). although this then means you dont have to convert the pedal box to drive by wire either. pro's and cons for both i guess. but the qpeng set up was far less work for me than putting all the factory clocks and ecu in. it wont give you a factory look like some people want, but i wasnt interested in that. a quick turn around (just over a week) was more important. it makes the engine systems alot simpler than the VW set up, as it eliminates alot of sensors from the equation, so you only use the sensors you actually need

mine has been on the rollers with qpeng, and so has a friends and its spot on. the engines are mapped on engine dyno's. the fuelling is cock on and there is no det. mine made good figures. the ,ap could be tweaked for more power, but thats the same for every generic map

nothing wrong with the qpeng set up, it works perfectly well and is so easy to do. not expensive, i paid 720 for my kit and it was already mapped, made 220bhp on the rollers at the weekend. a remap on standard management is between 300 and 500, and that means you are getting the kit and know how for sod all, bargain if you ask me. the power steering pipes do sit close to the front crossmember on mine, but when its all actually bolted up, they dont touch. if you run a solid mount its no problem. the brake master cylinder is close to the cam belt cover, but neith part moves so no prob ill try and take some pics of mine at the weekend, so if you want any particular pics let me know

make sure you use a good quality blade and you should be ok. kills your arm though!

call Ben, but i would say its the TPS wiring. which throttle body are you using? make sure you have wired for the correct throttle body. the next thing to give you a misfire is the coil packs. if you can rev the car with the throttle switch unplugged, its prob not these. i would def go down the throttle body route

lambda probe is always a favourite. male sure the earth down to the probe is good. try taping up the full throttle switch on the throttle body and see if it still does it

i used a hacksaw to take the towing eye out, took about 15 mins!!

the plastic bit for the rear number plate, always breaks when you take it off. about 60 quid from dealer

that would be fantastic i would say the engines you would need to consider are 1.8 16V - KR 2.0 16V - 9A 1.8 G60 - PG/1H 2.9 VR6 and for me, 1.8 20V turbo - ARX,AGU,BAM etc i hope that helps, and if anyone else can chip in some codes im sure that would be useful cheers, Rob

the technical info there was very interesting, so thanks for that. is it possible for you to list, in laymans terms, which oils you would use or recommend for our corrado engines please? i know its probably not as simple as that, but a simple guide would be very useful. im sure there are many others in the same boat who get a bit lost with the terms and chemical arrangments! :) or even put down some prices of stuff you would sell us? a simple list of which engines need which oil would be ace! many thanks, Rob

the g60 rad inlet and outlet are on the right, near the battery, the top hose comes out on top of the rad though, not the back. if you are going to use the g60 rad, i would allow to get an aftermarket fan as the cooling system on the 20v does run quite hot and the g60 fan struggles i find. you could go with vr6 rad and twin fan set up which seems to work better though. i moved my expansion tank to the left hand side aswell, to allow the cooling system to follow the original skoda layout (i used an octavia engine) what do you mean about the fuel hoses being crimped? ive gone from a g60 to 20v, so i just removed the old rubber fuel hoses and made new ones, attached with jubilee clips. i found ben at qpeng incredibly helpful. even at 10pm when i had a couple of issues he was happy to help me out. that engine will be quick in that car, mine is and im running 230bhp!

that is part of the secondary air ayatem i think. dont need it. for the fuel lines i just made some new lines up from rubber hose down to the plastic fuel lines. i used a passet servo hose, as it travels across the back of the engine bay, then joined it to the existing 20V brake servo pipe let us know how you get on, its great starting for th 1st time!! did you buy a complete loom or the DIY kit? oh yeah, using g60 rad, but im going to upgrade the fan as the 20V cooling system runs quite hot i find, even with my oil cooler

my throtle body is on the left hand side, so i used a thottle cable from a 1.6 carb mk 2 golf. dont know if it would work for the throttle body on the right, i imagine it would. im using the standard G60 pump, which is the huge in tank pump

dont believe what? if you put the K03 and "K03s" together then you can see they have different numbers of blades on the impellors VW dont call the later turbo a "K03s", its a term adopted by the VW community. the only way for you to have a definitive answer to this question, you need to put the 2 turbos together. if however, you were not referring to this point, then i apologise!!! :)

no such thing as a K03S, its just what people call it. if you have a late 20V engine (2002 on i think) then it runs the later K03 which produces more boost and can therefore be mapped to produce about 230bhp. think the later K03 has more blades on the impellors compared to the earlier K03. they also hold boost longer i think.

the QPE pipe is 2.5 inch. think its the same for the K03 and K04 i think. it was 200 quid plus vat for the K03 pipe which i got. well made, but the lambda probe is a whore to get in in situe!

i used the qpeng kit which uses stand alone managment (already remapped), a cable thottle body and the standards clocks, fuseboard etc. so no need to modify pedal boxes or any signal convertors. did all the wiring myself (not as bad as you may think) and the stuff cost about 800 quid for the managment and throttle body. not bad at all as its already remapped. it only took me about 6 hours to convert the wiring looms

ARX engine going in. just mapped for starters, will probably go K04 next year when funds are more plentiful. 230bhp will do for a start :)

im now putting a 20V in mine

how much of a hurry are you to buy this?

it does look awesome. have you got an engine sorted? i know he is selling his old V8 (about 350bhp) as he has a new one (450bhp). had a good nose around it the other day, he has had the dash trimmed but a lotus upholsterer and all the sills as plated and rivited, looks fantastic for a kit car!

check out ultimagtr.co.uk a lad i know has got an ultima gtr aswell, only running a 450bhp engine though! waiting for him to finish it so i can blag a ride!! wont be very good to live in though!

i think i changed the voltage regulater on the back of the alternator when mine started doing stuff like that, worth a go for 10 quid anyway! try gsf

trying to help a mate fit some mark 3 golf clocks into his mark 2 golf. the car is 90 spec wiring but i cant find any definitive information on how to do the conversion. everyone who asks about this never completes the thread!!! the car is using a modified corrado g60 engine loom (20V conversion), 90 spec rear wiring and mark 3 dash wiring with a 90 spec fuseboard. ive read stuff about just moving a couple of wires but i would really like some more info on exactly what works!! many thanks in advance, Rob (please move this thread if it is not in the correct section)