Rob_B

there is a chap on the 20v turbo thread who has used the factory ecu. think he had a loom made. i used standalone managment, piece of cake to install

what has happened to the g60 turbo then?

well the blocks should be pretty much the same so the rear mount should bolt on if they are. front mount and passenger side mount are all on the box so no problems there. obviously the manifolds are different of which you seem aware. think the pissrat runs an external waterpump but other than that, the block is pretty much the same as all other 1.8s. the head is the same as other 20vs. think the AEB engine runs a big port head like the AGU which everyone wants

i would say that most people do not run the run on pump on their conversions. am i correct in saying that the k04 is a water cooled turbo?

im not sure how useful being an aircraft engineer will be! biggest hassle is probably the wiring. putting the engine in is easy, if you can take the old one out then you can put the new one in. just need to use the engine mounts from your old engine to bolt to the 20v. which engine u running now? how long? pass. depends on how much you know, how quick you work, how much you want to spend etc. i didnt use standard managment, but i would imagine using stand alone managment is easier to install. its not that hard to do, you just need to get stuck in

well i need 1 asap as my mate has melted a piston in his, so if you know of any then let me know please sir :shades: much appreciated

prices are high for these at the moment as they are sought after 1k is low to average price. expect to pay more for k04 turbo engines

i think the mk 3 3litre engine is a tall block, so no good?

i run 220bhp and 230 ft/lbs with an ARX engine, although i am on stand alone management. it was measured on Clive Attowes rolling road, which is notorious for being unsympathetic

the 4x4 elegance model runs an ARX engine which will map up to 220-230 bhp no problem. any 150bhp or 180bhp turbo engine from 2002 will run the later K03 (or K03s if you like) and therefore a remap will see 220bhp. the VRS and 4x4 models will run the same power after a remap

the two dots should be on the front of the pulley and the single dot should be on the back, if yours is the other way around it sounds like yours is on the wrong way. every manual states that and every G60 i have seen has been like that from the factory. fair enough, my memory must be failing me. i ditched my g60 a while ago, best thing i ever did!

the 2 dots should be on the back, i think you may have the pulley on back to front by the sounds of it. then try lining the dots up to the head

the 2 dots right next to each other on the back of the cam pulley, need to line up with top of the head at the front (near alternator) when at tdc on no.1 (flywheel mark 0 degrees) the valves will then be fully closed so the fuel can be ignited because your rotor arm will be pointing at HT lead no.1.

if the timing is out it will drive like a bag of nails, feel flat and do all sorts of funny stuff.

i can do it quicker :D

im not 100% sure when the knock sensor is used, it should be all the time though, especially on WOT. if it has any damage to the insulation then it could be giving funny reading and adding fuel or retarding the ignition as it thinks there is det. only real way to prove that would be to change it, unless someone know any tricks with it. have you done a fuel pressure test on it? which experts have you called about the problem? what you could probably do with is an air/fuel ratio test being done to establish if it is running rich or lean.

vacuum feed can be taken from the inlet manifold what you will have been supplied with from qpeng is a loom with goes to the ecu, injectors, coils etc. the original engine wiring in your car is broken down into 2 parts, 1 part does all the ecu, injectors, TPS etc. the other part of the loom is for the headlights. in the loom with the ecu, will also be all the wiring for the oil pressure switches. the oil pressure switches are wired straight back to the clocks. you will need to break down this loom, so that you are left with:- the oil pressure switchs wires, coolent temp wires for the clocks, lambda probe heater wires, 12v switched supply for ecu, wire for the fuel pump wire for the rev counter the wires for the rev counter (tacho), fuel pump and 12v supply will already be going up to your original ecu, so they can be used again. you will have 1 wire going to the clocks for the coolent guage, this connects to the purple wire of the coolent sensor. the coolent sensor also needs to be earthed on 1 of the pins for it to work. hope that helps a bit

the annoying thing is, that by doing both of those things, you are removing the lambda probe from the system. WOT switch goes onto a different map, and so does the blue temp sensor. are you going to the GTI spring festival?

again, not much help mate, but if you could get it down to me i would happily get stuck into it

sounds like a bent shaft to me, but then im no expert. if you have oil there, then it cant be your fault, that is the only thing you need for it. get onto trading standards if not. if it came off your engine working, then it should come back working

i managed to buy a rallye intercooler for £60, hit a deer then got it recored by pace for £300 and its still a cheap intercooler!

"gimp mode"-quality! that could be a possibility, mine is the probe that came with the engine. ill run the mapping software on it and see what it is reading. allthough with £10 actually getting you about 2litres at the pump, maybe 50miles is good! :)

all the effort and money will be worth it now! the only thing i find with the qpeng is that it fuels so much. i might change my water temp sensor and see if that helps. im getting about 50 miles to £10 of super unleaded at the moment with normal driving (not racing everywhere). be interesting to know what others are getting. apart from that, the qpeng is spot on for me

1.6 bar is ok, my mates pulls 25psi on the boost guage and doesn't have any problems. and he will break anything you give him! if you disconnect the oil feed pipe and return pipe (well crack them off) does the oil come out of both pipes (not at same time)? could be crap bearings. does the shaft have lots of play in it? if you have oil seeping out of the return pipe then there must be oil getting to the bearings. does the unit come with a warranty? if so, get on the phone!

you would need to change the exhaust manifold, and change the oil feed and return pipes. to be honest, most people selling their K04's sell the whole set up as they tend to go bigger turbo, so the K04 stuff is no use to them. whichever turbo set up you choose you will need to modify the oil pipes as they are mounted to where the rear engine mount needs to go (not used on mk4 golf). i read the the mk5 gti 6speed box is the same size as the G60 box, so should fit straight on. would be nice to have a six speed box, but i would imagine the mk5 one to be quite expensive as its new. if anyone can get a cheap one i will try though :) i run the K03s turbo on mine and it makes 220bhp on the rolling road with 230 torques. its no slug. was going to go K04 originally, but the turbo is not the best thing in the world, and runs out of puff at high rpm. its obviously quicker than mine, but not by a massive amount.