Rob_B

well i would check for leaks first. assuming you havent already done this. have you tried running the pipework without the cooler in place?see what sort of pressure drop this gives. does the boost pressure increase after a second or so of full throttle, i.e there is some lag there? have you measured the charge temeperatures? obviously dropping the temps will affect the pressure, which is what you are measuring with th boost guage. if it feels quicker with lower boost readings, that is a good thing

how are yiou measuring your boost and does its feel slower to drive?

im somwhere around 250, need some mapping and im hoping for somewhere between 250 and 260

on the early cars there are 2 pumps. 1 in the tank and 1 under the car (like the mk2) on the later cars there is only 1 combined pump in the tank.

the one touch only works on the down on the passenger side. it goes up and down with 1 touch on the drivers side. not sure how its controlled as i havent looked into it. i would say that your alarm is not sending a long enough pulse to the passenger side

what are you trying to replace? your window is doing what is supposed to be doing. the alarm isnt doing the job correctly

they only have 1 touch electric windows on the up/down on drivers side and down on the passenger side

while its true a high boost figure doesnt mean better , surely we should all expect to see like for like figures as long as we have the same cam/head combo if you have a good charger, efficient head and a cam that gobbles air, you should see low boost figures on your boost gauge. mine used to make 15psi before i rebuilt the engine with the new head and bottom end. the problem with the 8v head is it is very inefficient as it is not a cross flow. this is why people do 16v conversions gfor G60's, the 16v head is far more efficient than the 8v head. all im saying, is a lower boost reading does not always mean a leak is present. however, if you are getting say 14psi 1 day, then 12psi the next, you have a problem. if you are making 12psi with a GOOD charger, then you must be using more boost

high reading on a boost gauge isnt always a good thing. it just shows that you are building pressure in the inlet, which isnt actually being used. mine shows 8 psi at the redline and im running a 68mm pulley on a good charger. as long as the charger is producing good boost, you should be aiming for a lower reading on the gauge. the ultimate goal would be to see 0psi on a gauge at full throttle. this would mean that the engine is using all of the air the charger can produce. boost gauges show what is NOT being used

does it start every time you try and start it?

the side lights are only giving out 8V though when the ignition is off. when its on, the give 12V. the rear lights arent on. its just the nearside side light. if i cant solve it ill disconnect it

still voltage with the switch disconnected. any ideas?

nope. if they were you would get 12v down to the lamps. if i switch the indicators on they increase in brightness. i wouldnt normally care as i would remove the bulbs, but ive got angel eyes so it kind or defeats the purpose!! :roll:

apologies if this is in the wrong place! is there anyone in the Norfolk area who is willing to do a gearbox change on my G60 for cash? would need to be done in my workshop in the middle of norfolk.i would normally do it myself but ive got a couple of other cars on the go and i need it done sooner rather than later, i.e. this weekend would be good!! can anyone help please, call 07917 714918 or PM me please cheers Rob

are there any simple reasons why im getting 8V down the grey/black wire on my headlight loom, even when the swith is off? thought i would ask first incase there are some simple reasons?! thanksin advance, Rob

you would love the tax here, everybody on here loves it im sure!

i probably wouldnt go there

flowed head or save it fo when the G60 breaks down?!

i may well be able to sort you out a respray in my booth! sure i could change the belts aswell. give me a shout

ejector seat?

i did have the car running, then had issues with some wildlife. the car should be back on the road soon hopefully! i couldnt tell you if the crank on its own made alot of difference as i had lots of work done at the same time i.e. ported head, bored block etc. i can tell you that my crank is coinsiderably lighter than a standard crank, and i had the flywheel lightened by 45% to make the bottom end lighter. its all the little things that add up to make a difference. its a shame that you probably wont ever see the crank as it truely is a wok of art, in fact in sure i could frame it and display it at some gallery as its a far better sculpture than some of the rubbish ive seen!! forged pistons are made using a different process to normal pistons which are cast. the forged items should be alot harder than the original items. which means that they are normally used in low compression engines. shouldnt let oil past, thats what the rings are for. as for the noise, who cares?! its all about performance!

this could be a picture from anywhere so how will you believe me?!

mine is 83mm with forged pistons and works well with some nice power. retained the G60 crank with some nice knife edging and balancing. not as extreme as some others but with a ported head it goes well and i havent had all the engineering issues that others have had

yep, thats what a knife edged crank looks like as thats what the lobes of mine look like! its a work of art!