beavis

Power will start to tail off on a stock head/cam engine at around 5500-5800rpm where the head starts to be less efficient flow wise. If power is dying off noticibly before this it may be down to a weak fuel pump etc. The G60 engine is more about torque than high RPM power, there is little point in reving a g60 into the read as all your achiving is putting more strain on the blower.

A filter on the ISV is imperative to stop debris being drawn into the inlet manifold during warm up where the ISV is working overtime to draw air in.

We have a varity of different SNS maps for different applications. Set up is also a key factor, if you've done nothing else but swap chips over then all the base settings will be out. What injectors are in your Rallye? Greys or Greens?

Don't be intimidated by the oil cooler being a difficult job to fit. They are a relativly easy to install by a novice if you take your time. It should not take a specialist more than 2- 2and half hrs to fit a cooler for you.

...25k ramping across egyption sands, across the bottom of Indian ocean.. running a few yanks over on the way..

As Darren says.. Bastuck, comparable price to the more expensive Supersprint systems. Fits correctly, unlike Budget systems and has a distinctive note that does not wake the neighbourhood. Simply the finest system that money can buy... Other than the Gucci handmade system on a Rallye over on the dubforce forum.

We have numerous Corrados pass though the workshop per year, there is no continuity really with milage vs condition. Some sub 100k cars we see have been neglected and you can write an advisery list as long as your arm, we have had well maiintained cars with 150k plus in which have just needed minor service items as they have been well looked after. There is a lad on the forum, James Pennels, he brought his car too us with a good 130k on the clock to have the charger rebuilt just after he brought the car, the charger had not been serviced previously but when we stripped it it was the cleanest charger we had seen all year inside and the rest of the car was in exelent repair. The following day I had a charger off a 60k car to service that looked like it had been halfway round the world and back. The key things is to look how the car has been maintained and driven, low milage is not always assurence of a solid car.

I belive that that a G60 lump weighs in the region of 240kgs.

Roughly 20-25k miles service interval to make sure things are all well and good. Prevention is better (and cheaper) than cure.

LOL.. A head gasket on a GT can be swapped a piece of piss and are about 15 quid, just do it before it breaks down and fails completly. If you want to be pikie you can reuse the headbolts, all you will need in addition is a exhaust downpipe gasket. A Polo headgasket can be changed and runnning in the same time as it takes you to get the head off a Corrado engine.

Slight adjustments can be made via the CO pot and distributer timing cam be made to make fine adjustments to a chip that is mapped to the spec of the car.

Common problem when replacement clutches are fitted and the mechanic forgets to refit the earth strap

The chip is essentaily a data storage device like a CD rom. The information on the chip is basically a reference table. All the senders send signals back to the ECU. The majority of the senders are varible resisters or switches which the values are adjusted by somthing physically upon the engine e.g. water tempreture, boost etc. The ECU reads these values and then looks up a value off the reference table stored on the chip to determine what fueling and ignition advance is required for the conditions that the engine is under. When you map a car what you are effectivly doing is setting the value on the reference table manualy to one that is correct to give the right fueling/advance so that the car runs safly and efficently for the conditions the engine is under. When you physically modify the engine the ECU is blind to the modifaction and adjusts the fuling/ignition advance in accordence to what it thinks it should be from the information supplyed by the senders. If you fit a cam or a gas flowed head for example you are getting more air into the cylinders but the boost pressure will drop as there is more boost in the cylinders rather than stored up in the inlet manifold. For arguments sake without a gas flowed had at 4000rpm the engine at full throttle may be registering 14psi. With the gas flowed head under the same conditions it may be registering 12psi.. but there is more air in the cylinders therfore more fuel is needed. The map sensor at 14psi will send the ECU a value of say 4v, at 12 psi it may give a value of 3v. So, the information on the table for 3v signal from the map sensor needs to be adjusted so that it is supplying more fuel now to compensate for the engine mods. When a engine is mapped a laptop is plugged up to the ECU via a interface which plugs into the socket as the chip would normally do, effectively the laptop becomes the refrence table that you can adjust the values of it accordingly. When all the values have been adjusted so the car is running the right fuel mixture etc the new data on the reference table is save on the laptop then burn't onto a chip like you would burn a CD rom. The new chip is then fitted to the ECU so it has a new data table to refer too. Most engines with the same mods will fall into the same ballpark, so effectivly you can use the chip written for one engine in the ECU of another engine of the same spec. There may be small discrepencies between cars, this is where the refernce table can be further adjusted to suit that engine individualy. This is why cars run so poorly when a sender fails as the ECU is being given the wrong information so looks to run the car from a unsuitble place of the reference table. The difference between other manufaturers chips and the SNS chips is that the information on the reference table is looked up a lot more quickly, so there is little delay from when a value changes at the sensor, the ECU finding the appropiate information off the refrence table and altering the fueling accordingly. Hope this makes sence.. It is late.

The secondary valve should just close fractinally before full throttle. There are no gains from shorterning the linkage to actuate full boost at lesser throttle postions. All you are doing is losing throttle modulation.

I'd be more inclined to prep a Golf or Polo as a trackday car. I'm by no means disputing the Corrado's abilitys as a track day beast, it's just Polo's and Golfs are a little more of a disposible comodity than Corrado's. If you have a little 'Off' in a Polo or Golf replacement panels will cost you a few pound and are easierly obtained. Corrado bits are a little more scarce. There is a lot of weight that can be binned out of a Corrado to bring even a stock power car to life. If it is not needed ...bin it.. cheapest form of increasing performance. Slut steel wheels which will accomodate a nice brake package, jack off the ABS if fitted and fit a pedal box, nylon/poly, paddle clutch when you kill the original item suspention bushes and coilovers. If funds allow Diff, seam weld the chassis and a nice cage to make the beast a little more ridged.

Really not worth going to the time or hastle of rigging up. You need to spray that much water on the cooler to get any effect that you need a 10 litre bottle to carry enough water. Heat is theoreticaly removed from the intercooler as energy from the heat of the hot boost air is used to evaporate water off the intercooler core. This is all well and good, but to be effective you need very finly atomised water so that the small droplets evporate quickly. When you get fine droplets they just get blown stright though the core without evporating. Out of a litre of water only 100ml may be evporated doing it job, the other 900 ml has just been blasted over your inner arch.

Hi mate.. really feel for you.... I hate the way that us honest pepole work hard for the bits and bobs we want, only for some scumb to think it is their gods given right to take it for themselfs.

Lost it's appeal now since Karen Maccie D has departed.

I get teased by a couple everyday when I go into the VAG dealership. Really nice looking car, has a little more charecter than the mk3 and 4's.

Compression test will give a indication, the best test is a fluid test. A fluid tests for gases passing from the block via the head gasket into the coolant system.

May be the first little inclination that your headgasket is starting to fail. Moisture gets into the bore causing poor ignition initaily. Worst case synario..

You may have a weak fuel pump or dodgy vacume hose connections so the ECU is not fueling for boost conditions. A failing lamba probe tends to give the opposite symptoms to what you have i.e. poor off boost/normal driving running and runs fine on boost as the lamba probe is ignored by the ECU when you go full throttle.

There is plenty of power to be unleashed in the cooper 's'. Ours ran 192bhp on the rolllers at Stealth on stock pulley with only one or two little mods. Old BMW leave the adjustment on the vacume opperated boost return valve slightly open so boost does not exceed 9psi. Slight tweeking increses peak boost to 11psi. Small pulley and remap going on in the new year, hopfully hit the 200bhp mark easierly. We have got a couple of heads we gonna have a play with as well, see what gains can be achived in that area. The intercoolers on them are actually very efficent. Pre intercooler temps temp peak as high as 120'c out of the eaton, g laders peak aboout 60-70'c in comparison, post intercooler temps peak about 40'c which is pretty impressive considering the size and location of the intercooler. LOL.. ye you have less of a contience cutting the mini's about rather than old classics. Ours has just covered over 40k in 16months, we have highlighted quite a few week points in this time, suspention being the most pronounced, the razor sharp tail end happy handling has slowly digressed to dull understeer.. :(

Check you hav'nt got some big power drain from some electrical componets some where or a poor earth.

I know this sounds obvious but is the battery in good nick? I had a simular thing with a ED1 Golf a few weeks back after bleeding the brakes. The ABS pump is left running to bleed the rears., when I came to start the car afterwards it would not start. There was a spark when i connected the hall sender plug to a secondary dizzy with the ignition on, but no spark when I turned the car over on the starter motor. Turned out there was not enough current from the battery to turn the starter motor over AND produce a good spark. Put the booster pack on and all was fine.