gradeAfailure

There's rather a few in Farnborough - I've got one, t'other half's got one, my sis has one, her other half's mate's got one... :lol:

If your rear seat has a hump then it's pretty much a straight in/out jobby!

Just about to do this on mine hopefully - so far it'll be new wishbones and all the bushes at the front (OE), and new OE bushes at the back, but I'd be interested to know what other things people recommend... :)

:shock: ;)

Looks very nice there mate, such a shame to see it written off... :( Don't give up!

The JOM one doesn't fit properly round the headlights at the ends of the spolier part - you either have to cut it right back or heat it with a heat gun and re-shape it... no idea if the Rieger one fits any better... ;) eBay item 8036503404

:lol:

Yup, you can get the JOM one for about £40-45 but the quality ain't all that tbh...

Mercedes 190 Cosworth Evo That, or a rod/lowrider... :)

errr, actually, that's H&R's US website, try http://www.hrsuspension.co.uk and quick link - http://www.hrsuspension.co.uk/p/HRsbv_p ... Type=SUH04

http://www.hrsprings.com/site/products/cupkits.html Google is king... :)

No mention of Laura though :( or did I just not read it properly...? :lol:

Nice! A decat's on the cards for me too - was that another eBay bargain?

Well, my other half runs 9x16s on 215/40-16 tyres on her 16V, ET15, and the wheels protrude past the arches but the tyres are just within due to the stretch! It's lowered, and the return lips on the arches have been trimmed back but the arches aren't pulled or extended. So, with ET25, they'd be 10mm further in, so I reckon you'll be ok... :)

ET0 is where the hub mounting face of the wheel is in line with the centre of the wheel, ET5 means that the the hub mounting face is 5mm towards the front face of the wheel from the centreline of the wheel, ET20 means that the the hub mounting face is 20mm towards the front face of the wheel from the centreline of the wheel, and so on... from this, you can see that a higher offset will tuck the wheels in further, whereas a lower offset will push them out further. Adding spacers will reduce the offset number... Capisce? :) Edit: 20mm offset on a VR will be pushing it as they are ET43 as standard, whereas the 4-stud boys are ET35 as standard... I believe this has been covered once or twice... ;)

Yes, you will need spacers - the highest offset you can go on 9x16s on a 4-stud rado without fouling the suspension is ET25. Personally, I'd recommend 10mm spacers to take you out to ET20 :)

Can you get a pic of the aux belts and alternator area? That's where the compressor'll be...

Ah, but our man here has a 4-stud valver... ;) I say A, but I am biased... :lol:

Well, if you're in the uk now, why not get the spigot rings and take em back with you as a backup plan!

Modern cars, if properly cared for and serviced, should easily do well over 250,000... Mine's at about 130k, and the rat is on 155k, both running fine... Hacks me off when people are paranoid about miles on a car - they're meant to be used! :lol:

Errr, I think they're about £1 each, and posting is no problem... :)

Yup, ditto!

To see if it's an engine issue or a wheel bearing issue, knock it into neutral at about 50mph - if the noise stays, it'll be bearing related; if it goes, it'll be engine related... :)

You will most likely need spigot rings - t'other half had 15" Parons on her last rado and they needed them... If you do need em mate, I have a local place that can get genuine AEZ ones and I'm happy to get some if you have any troubles!

haha, ditto, caught them at Brixton Academy... I so need to buy the comics/graphic novels... 8)