gradeAfailure

You could drive up with Phil K as I think his valver's going to Stealth from Guildford in the not-too-distant future...

it was like that when i bought it... and mr g60dave sir - yours will be early heater controls, so you have to take the film off the back of the controls, scan it, photoshop the green to red, print it out onto clear acetate, then re-install... :)

Nothing yet, but it will be Meguiars Gold Class when I get a day free to actually clean and polish the damn thing! :lol:

:shock:

Awww, cheers Furk...! Personally, I reckon a good 5-spoke, either split rim, with a decent dish, or both!

Dunno bout interior ones but my rear indicators tinted green on the rat were ok... Alternatively, i think some of the boy-racer-type places sell coloured interior bulbs just for that "my car's a brothel" look... ;) try http://www.motor-world.co.uk

It's somewhere amongst the boxes from the house move! I'll dig it out by the next TV meet... :)

I cheated - I got one that had already had the money spent on it...! :oops: Though the way it gets driven, in 9months time my fuel bill will equal the cost of the car...!

^^^^^^ I think Mr Renshaw used them to refurb his 'Vette wheels...

Heater controls - remove the green light pipes from the back of the heater control panel and replace with a clear one from a Passat, then paint the heater illumination bulb red/blue/colour of your choice... :)

^^^^^^ what he said - the way prices are at the mo, £5k for 120k mileage is waaaaay too much, even if it does have aircon and beige leather... and the wheels look like the std 15" Speedlines, not 16"ers... My VR cost £4.5k and it's on 130k-odd mileage - but it has over £3.5 of receipts from Stealth Racing in the last two years, and it came on BBS RS301 wheels which are worth over £1k on their own. I personally would favour a higher mileage car that's had all the stuff like chains and tensioners, suspension, bushes, etc, already replaced than get a lower mileage one that's still to have that done...

For reversing the polarity of the screens, look at http://www.oichan.org like the others said...!

Except that he's not actually making them any more... ;) The person you want is Majik, and this thread - http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight=

I think it's around the £700-£1000 mark, depending on what other work you have done at the same time...

Oooo, this could be interesting as my mirrors have replacement glass stuck on and don't demist very well - and I begrudge paying £44 each for two replacements!

The later PS2 is good for putting in cars as it has an external PSU, which means you just need to get a 12V DC input/whatever the PS2 is output PSU to run it... Other than that, coolrado is the man to speak to...!

I've used that STP cleaner stuff (black bottle) in most of my cars just before a hard run and it does seem to make them rev a bit freer... Used that 10KBoost stuff once or twice too and it seemed to do pretty much the same thing... Anyone tried the old "Italian Tune-Up" though...? Courtesy of Ken's Digifant Page... "Ye Olde "Italian Tune Up" (not for the faint-hearted) Consider the German heritage of your Volkswagen. Because of the high speed Autobahns, all VWs have been designed to run effortlessly at prolonged high speeds since Day One. But today most owners trundle their VWs short distances through stop and go rush-hour traffic at low speeds. The opportunity to get the engine up on the cam and run it until good and hot is rare. As a result, engine oil doesn't get hot enough to boil off moisture and burn off the deposits caused by low speeds and incomplete warm-ups. Even with a fresh cleaning and tune-up, these cars may still show poor idle step-off, hesitation and non-linear throttle response. A cure can sometimes be to carefully run an otherwise good engine hard so it gets hot enough to burn the excess carbon deposits off the piston crowns, clean the valve faces and blast deposits off the spark plugs, fuel injector nozzles and oxygen sensor and at the same time boil any lingering water out of the oil. Warning #1: The following procedure can blow your engine to: smithereens, bits, pieces, orts, perdition and kingdom-come. If you own a high-mileage, low-compression, oil-swilling, rod-knocking, piece o' crap car (you know who you are, don't you), don't bother with the "Italian Tune Up" because you will end up walking home from what's left of your sorry pile of smoking and hissing ex-VW junk. OK? (I'm not kidding.) :-) Now. Assuming your car is otherwise in healthy condition already, and you have worked through the other steps on this site, let's begin. The easiest way to "blow out the carbon" is to run the car under load at high engine speed. In other words, run the car right to the redline and hold it there in every gear. For decades, experienced drivers and mechanics have called this procedure the "Italian Tune Up". Now this is a great trick on a race track, but hardly practical on the street. The street alternative is to first check all fluids and top them up. Make sure you are running clean, high quality oil. I use regular dino-oil 20W50 in summer, 10W30 in winter. (A lot of experienced drivers swear by synthetic motor oils for high temperature running. The additional expense of synthetics may be offset by their longer drain intervals.) Drive a while so that your oil and water temperatures rise into the normal zones, then head out to your local four-lane. In light or no traffic, try to run for one or two minutes at 90 to 100 kph (~ 55 to 60 mph) in second gear. The engine will be running (loudly) near the red line. If you continue to push up into the red you will trigger the Digifant rev limiter which cuts the fuel supply in half. This will feel like a sudden roughness in the engine and a loss of power. The first time you experience this you may think you've blown something. Just back out of the throttle so you don't keep banging into the rev limiter. If your engine is in good shape, this is not dangerous, just disconcerting the first time you experience it. Again, neglected engines will not be up to the strain. If you really don't know the maintenance history of your Digifant car, or if you've just bought it, do not attempt this! WARNING #2: If you blow a head gasket or otherwise detonate your engine by following this procedure, don't say you weren't warned! Because you have been warned. Now if you feather the throttle back just out of rev limiter range and hold it there for 60 seconds or so, the car will continue to cruise smoothly, albeit loudly. (If you are not used to driving your car at or near the redline, the noise can be disconcerting, especially to your passengers!) The point of holding the rpms steady under the red line is to get everything really hot from the piston tops and valve faces out to the catalytic converter. Under these conditions the engine will quickly reach peak operating temperatures. I have this vision of four wonderfully hot whitish blue flames pouring out of each exhaust port into the downpipe. Sort of like getting the mixture just right on a Bunsen burner or an oxyacetylene torch, or how about on a 1650 hp Rolls Royce Merlin V12 at just under "war emergency" power? Nice! If you have an oil temperature gauge, keep a close eye on it because depending on the ambient air temperature, this should be as high as it will ever get. In my Jetta on a warmish summer day, oil temperature peaks around 110°C (~230° F). That's hot! Remember, if your car is in basically good shape to begin the red line is fairly conservative. A kilometer (or mile) or two of this is all you need to burn off the harmful deposits from stop and go driving. At 100 kph (~62 mph) and 6,000 rpm, a 60 to 90 second burst should be all you need. After one or two such treatments, the improvement in Digifant low speed driveability and throttle transitions may be quite noticeable, especially after a few months of winter or just city driving. Remember, the famous "Italian Tune Up" is meant only for drivers who know their cars well and know that their cars are in good shape. If you don't know whether your car is up to this kind of treatment, or if you can't afford to fix it if it blows up, then don't risk it. After all of this, your Digifant car should be running like a champ. Simple, what?"

http://waxxtm.com/registrations.html WK indicates that it was registered in Coventry.

Yuh-huh...! Still, money spent now, just gotta make it fit!

Hell, they may be wrong and you may be right! Who can say, eh...

Lance, I now know what you mean about the ends of the eyebrow - they're not moulded correctly and don't fit around the end of the headlights properly... I spent all my lunch at work today filing and shaping, but to no avail... :( Anyone had the same problem with the Rieger one? Though I have discovered that a hot air gun will soften the plastic, allowing it to be re-shaped... Guess what I'm trying tomorrow! :lol:

http://www.models2u.co.uk/Shop/enter.ht ... =d657.html

er, no, that would be pi55, as in urine... :lol: that'll be Furki getting around the swear filter!

The catalogue details are: VW Corrado G60 - NEW RELEASE 08877 New Release - Due September 2006 - not yet available. 1993 Black Revell - Scale 1:18 VW Corrado G60 - NEW RELEASE 08878 New Release - Due September 2006 - not yet available. 1993 Blue Revell - Scale 1:18

Welcome to the forum - gotta say I love that 1.3 Golf, so nice!