Craig

It's very easy, there's a link on the 312 thread for a fella on eBay that sells the correct length high tensile bolts for circa £10 and also another company that makes cnc stainless spacers again about £10. Job done. I'm being lazy and not posting the link but its all there in the 312 brake thread. :)

Would need to see some full on side shots of the car first ;) But from What I can see I think the MOs look Very nice, you could try them for a while and see how you feel, or even have them as a winter option if that's in your budget. I personally wouldn't go colour coded on splits as I think it will be too much of a colour clash. Too much blue IMO but I might be wrong. Black suits the blue if you like a mean stealth look or gold could be a winner, some subtly bling as on scoobys. Someone handy with photoshop would be helpful to try and gauge what colours match :)

Sorry about the wheels mate. Really do feel for you, just want something to go right for a change without the ensuing hassle involved! Just bear in mind it will be worth it in the end and the final look will be faultless! It wouldn't suit you to lie about the delivery and I think it would have just lead to more complications. As the wheeles were from an individual he's not like a company that would just write off the loss and issue you a replacement, I doubt this guy has another set he can send and he could afford to just do so anyway. I think what you have done is right although chances are it will just get ignored by the delivery company and that chap that poorly wrapped them. To be honest I know you and your attention to detail and if the dishes weren't immaculate you would have probably had them refurbished anyway so now your potentially having to buy new dishes is solving that problem ;) if you can a small level of compensation back than take that as a bonus. You could use this excuse to paint the rims that grey I showed you on those other zw1s on eBay :) Still need to go for a drive but think I need to sort this charger first, did you contact that fellow about the spray work on the bumper, that Might have to wait until i get this charger map sorted and csaba to fit my 312s.

Do you mind e asking roughly how much a remap was at UM. Tried calling a few times but just rings and rings. Will try again and leave a message if no answer. Think the pulley John was 75 diameter on my rotrex. so a potentiometer is effectively acting in the same way as a maf clamp, stopping it peaking at 5v by lowering slightly so if it did reach 5v, at 0.7/1v ratio when the maf would have been 5v it's only actually at 3.5v. But with bigger injectors the feeling shouldnt be effected. It does sound a bit more complex and wouldnt be confident tackling it on my own. I'm debating at trying to get some injectors and get it remapped for piece of mind? If that failed then we shall see? Just need to weigh up the costs as I don't have the funds just yet. Can't seem to find any maf clamps in the uk, and potentiometer seems to be the only other choice other than a map?

I hope you can enjoy it, this is only my opinion :) for me it just didn't answer anything and saying this loosely as it is set in space etc but it was just unrealistic and I never really believed any of it. I was always aware I was in a cinema watching a film if that makes sense, I ever got involved apart from one brief 10 minute moment.

Prometheus 5.5/10 very disappointed. Just never delivered in my view. Poor story line, never really got my full attention and very hyped up. I like films to explain themselves and justify why things happen etc, this just threw in random events and without giving much away it had the usual character heroics which we're just totally unrealistic. Anyways visuals looked good and there was one moment that got me hooked when i thought it was going to step up a gear but that never happened. I hope Others might enjoy it more than I did

Ah that's ideal thank Jon, is it just any Saab 9000 injectors then? and they're a direct fit. Will look into hopefully getting some next pay day and would get them cleaned/refurb. What's the 10k pot trick? Is that something to do with a resistor on the maf? Or raising the 5v limit? I've got the c30-84 charger, how do you know this will be at 14psi, the guy who had it previously advised it would be 10? What's the bhp limit before cooling is required then? I don't have the funds yet for a charge cooler, or where or what to even to begin looking for? I think it's the maf issue then as at full throttle about 3.5/4k revs the engine jumps and it's like its bouncing off the rev limiter? Is this the injectors being cut off and starving the engine because the maf is shutting down? Also without sounding niave but this could cause a piston to melt etc? Cursing at say 50/60mph it's fine, it's only when I try and open the throttle fully. Sorry for all the questions but I just like to be sure what I learn and like to understand why things react the way they do so i get a better understanding rather just accept things and not know why :) Just trying to weigh up all the options and it's could to know the implications of each :)

Yep all up and running, didn't want to do a duplicate post so I put the update in my members ride thread. Could dump it in here too? It's running, sort off. Just been for a drive now and the idle is a bit jumpy, sometimes it sits perfect at circa 600-750revs when pulling up to a junction then some junctions it stalls :( I used the other pipe so I have the re-circ all piped in. It wouldn't idle without it! I have disconnected the battery and drove about 40 minutes at the weekend to help the ecu adjust, thought I might have read somewhere that the ecu still learns for the next few drives etc, would be wishful thinking the idle sorts itself out? Also if I boot it on full throttle I think it overloads the maf as it looses power suddenly and causes the engine to nearly jump out of the bay. Suspect it's hitting the 5v limit and shutting the injectors off. usually about 3.5/4k revs Would there be Anyway around this other than a remap, maf clamp or smaller pulley? When on part throttle and I slowly build up the revs it's ok but obviously thats not ideal if I can never use full throttle. So I'm getting there, just trying not to have to fork out for a full remap just yet. Was hoping the rrfpr wold sort the fuelling but I never knew about the maf airflow issue until I read about it after a google search. it's all a learning process!!

There's some injector tune 330cc injectors on ed38 at the mo for £170, Is this a good price? Not a clue when it comes to injectors and what fits etc? If it was mapped then am I right in thinking all fuelling etc would remain as normal bar swapping over to bigger injectors and a custom remap.?

Currently on standard fuelling and ecu etc, just using the rrfpr that was supplied. Ive been doing a fair it of reading trying to understand it all and I'm pretty sure it's the maf 5v issue on full throttle at about 3.5/4k revs. Didn't think you could mix lager injectors and a rrfpr so would it be to ditch the rrfpr and buy some larger injectors and a remap somewhere? But would a remap cure the 5v airflow problem? Wasn't sure of my options really as obviously I'd like it running as smooth as possible :)

Trial fitting Oil cooler plumbed in Air filter in the wing Installed

So last few days have been emotional. Being optimistic we started the rotrex install last Friday in a hope to drive down with ramsey on the Sunday but a whole host of issues. Ant it was no where near ready so I was gutted to miss the ccgb national day. Anyway in short it's alive! Sort of. It's all been a steep learning curve for me but I love to learn about how stuff works The install was a pain, I had an old bracket I believe thus we had to attach it and take it off numerous time to get all of the pulleys lined up, shave a few mm off of the block as it was fouling the bracket and then one of the threads on the block gave way so we then had to helicoil (sp) in a new thread. In the end after a few late nights its all on. It's all very tight With the rrfpr, rotrex oil canister and intake pipes. We tried to keep it all as neat as possible and route vacuum lines for the rrfpr and re-circ valve around the engine bay and out of sight :) The rotrex metal hardpipe has no inlet for the isv pipe, I thought this could be deleted but I was correctly told its needed, so I bought a silicone t-piece and we cut down the isv pipe, connected it back up and then plumbed the isv into the t-piece that was between the tb inlet and intake pipe outlet. The isv hose was smaller than the 25mm t-piece outlet but we fitted a small section of the isv hose around the plastic joiner and this was then a perfect fit and allowed a tight seal. Initially we tried it with the re-circ venting to atmosphere, do not attempt this. It would not idle, the engine was fuelling for the air metered by the maf, but then most of it was being vented when the tb was closed, so massive over fuelling and no idle. We then used the old intake pipe that came with the kit that had an outlet on the 90 degree elbow. I didn't want to use this as it was old and I had bought a nice shiny t-piece for the re-circ but there is no way enough space to have this and a silicone elbow coming off of the charger. So I cleaned the old pipe, wrapped it in some new silicone tape and plumbed it in. Now there was another problem, I idled fine but when we drove it it was awful, the re-circ pipe was collapsing as it was only some cheap vacuum pipe. So limped home, replaced the re-circ pipe with a wire reinforced piece and I reset the ecu. After a drive last night it's certainly got some more power :) but too much I think. I've read that the maf is good for about 280/300bhp and has a 5v resistance for airflow. When I drive under part throttle its ok, but as soon as I open throttle at about 3.5/4k revs the engine wans to jump out of the bay. I suspect the maf is peaking at its 5v limit and shutting down the injectors. Am I correct? The car is very drivable up until I open full throttle, I think the charger is maxing the maf airflow so my question now is how do I resolve this? I've read a few bis on maf clamps, but then any air above the 5v limit is not accounted for? Is this sensible? I've heard c2 mentioned but I'm not sure what that is? Or do I need a full remap and new injectors? Or can a 4" maf be used but then I'll need new software to match I'm led to believe? As always help is much alpreciated on getting it to run perfect :) Here's the pics so far, we ran out of time to fit the 312s so hoping this will be done sometime next week :) 312s were already in very good condition, just not keen on red calipers Smooth gold :) mk4 rears painted blue Lick of gold, not a perfect finish but happy enough Bundle of items Rotrex c30-84 Gold bracket Metal ccr intake pipe Thought I'd buy a new filter for piece of mind Braided hoses, cnc spacers and high tensile bolts Ready to start So first problem, having to grind a few mm off the block as I seem to have the old style bracket thats not quite a direct fit

Go with your gut instinct mate, they're not going to last forever, at the end of the day they're only a pair of seats! I understand everyone wants their car to be perfect in their own eyes, if you arent feeling the recaros then sell them, buy the ones you want, albeit once theyre gone You're unlikely to get another chance but Life's too short to be worrying about a pair of seats. It's not like you haven't got plenty of other styles to chose from! Ask yourself why you want to keep them, if you adore them and see them as a work of art, keep them! If your only holding onto them because they are rare and don't really appreciate them then I'd sell them on, buy the ones you want and then take the family out for a day out or something? :)

Cheers Dave, glad you had a good time and you like the wheel. If your ever back down then give me a shout. Charger sounded awesome but no test drive yet :) teething issues

Pictures look great, Gutted to have not been able to make it down but rotrex install is still underway. Hopefully will make some shows later this year and can only hope the national day next year is just as good!

Sounds epic, look forward to the full set of pics, engine bay, interior etc :)

Hmm, looking to try and get it finished later this eve but time is short, very doubtful will be able to make ccgb in the morning! I have another hose that has a vent for the re-circ valve but i wasnt going to use it as its a bit worn, so I could use that and just make do until I get a new one. I was just wondering if it could just vent the excess boost to atmosphere? Excuse my ignorance but why would this be an issue and jerk changing up gears? Just i like to understand the way it all works so I can gain a better understanding. I presume it's something to do with the maf and amount of fuel running lean or rich? Appreciate the help :)

no pics im afraid as im work at the mo but had a bit of a chore to get the bracket to fit and all the pulleys lined up! Then the intake pipe was sitting at a slight angle. We cut down the isv pipe and connected this into the t-piece silicone hose that joins the metal boost pipe to the throttle body. Still have to extend the maf and connect up the rrfpr. With the rrfpr can i confirm the fuel goes in, fuel goes out into the fuel rail, we then us a plastic t-piece at the regulator end of the fuel rail and join the other outlet on the rrfpr to the pipe coming coming from the manifold which will give the boost pressure? leaving the fuel line regulator in place but also has the rrfpr splice into the manifold pressure via this t-piece? Sorry i have no pics at the moment due to supposedly being at work! :) also there was no room for my alloy t-piece so weve not connected the recirc valve back into the pipe intake work, ive jsut left it to vent to atmosphere. I know this is not ideal but is it really needed, i can always plumb it in at a later date if the noise is noticeable.

Worked in bundaberg for 3 months picking sweet potatoes when I was in oz and had plenty of bundy rum, very nice, didn't realise it was so widely known till I'd been there :)

Another vote for AG HD wax :) bit late tho as you've already bought some :)

I like the look off 9s on the rear but you can say bye to having any passengers in back, they will scrub user heavy bumps so ideally you would need the arches rolling. Either way they'll look good :)

I think the best set would be to have 7.5s on the fronts and 9s on the back but each to their own :)

Had 16x9s all round on my VR: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?49971-Craigs-95-Twilight-Violet-VR6-Rotrex-fitting-questions

i think Rams has said were hoping to head up on the sunday but im 50/50 as im having my rotrex kit fitted friday and if all goes well ill hopefully join him on the drive down, but when do these things go smoothly? So im keeping my fingers crossed to see if there are any teethinf problems if these can be fixed in time?

Right, if i must have this isv pipe ive bought another silicone t piece so im hoping to connect that on the end of metal intake pipe and TB inlet so i can then attatch the isv pipe to this...in theory :) does it need to be the same length, ie i am hoping to cut down the black pipe, then just attach this using the plastic joiner to this silicone t pieve i have ordered? fun times! nothings ever staright forward! what does this isv pipe, help regulate revs?? Thanks for the help