RW1

Its easy. August 92, is the start of the new chassis year so it has to be chassis number 50PK000001 onwards. I wrote the VAGCOM coding for Uwe Ross 15th March 2001 . You will be able to look at below in Measuring Blocks: 0,0,General Engine Data 0,1,Intake Air,Temperature 0,2,CO Fuel Trim,Potentiometer 0,3,Coolant,Temperature 0,4,O2S Sensor,Active 1,0,General Engine Data 1,1,RPM,Engine Speed 1,2,Engine,Load (%) 1,3,Coolant,Temperature 1,4,Injection,Time 2,0,General Engine Data 2,1,RPM,Eng Speed 2,2,Not for,Customer 2,3,Not for,Customer 2,4,Injection,Time 3,0,General Engine Data 3,1,RPM,Engine Speed 3,2,Engine,Temperature 3,3,Not for,Customer 3,4,Injection,Time 4,0,General Engine Data 4,1,RPM,Engine Speed 4,2,Engine,Load (%) 4,3,Not for,Customer 4,4,Injection,Time 5,0,Idle Control 5,1,RPM,Engine Speed 5,2,Throttle, 5,3,Not for,Customer 5,4,Injection,Time You will need the OBD1 to 2x2 connection converter to do it. http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/AF2X2.html Only ever dipped into one such Corrado in the last 12 years at a CCGB National Day. So they can be interrogated under normal settings unlike the 2.0ltr 16v 9A engine ECU. .

If its post Aug'92 yes OBD1 or.... if prior to August '92 you do it by the old analogue method with a bulb & wires and a few 4 x flashes codes that the ECU will output (USA & Canada markets only, not available on European market Corrados). .

Its VW's standard wheel silver L009 - Chromfarbe Cannot remember seeing anything other than a touch up stick for the colour though. A close match is Mercedes Brilliant Silver. .

Just put an old towel round the joint to absorb what comes out. Undo the header tank cap to relieve any pressure in the cooling system and then remove bolts and extract the elbow with its seal. Yup, 10nm for the bolts. .

Ordinary masking tape is quite tacky as said. The next level down is Painter's tape (blue - 3M's 2090) and then detailing tape (blue - 3M's 3434). What I have found is the detailer's tape was much less sticky in such a way it leaves nothing of the adhesive behind and was slightly easier to work with when initially applying and masking up. Plus being blue, you can see the polisher head's polish hitting it whereas the cream masking tape won't show that up. It's not that expensive. I pay £2.95 for 25mm wide x 50m at my local detailing supplier and it lasts for three car's worth. .

Your battery is whacked. When you start the volts drop, if they drop too far, the ignition stops working. The reason why it starts later is cos the compression is lower due to cooling off. So the starter current demand is not as bad and so the battery voltage does not drop below the ignition low volts limit where it ceases working. Thats why the good battery started it. If once started, putting on the old battery and starting gives it less load and so the volts stay up enough. To check its not an earth problem, compare across the battery terminals and then do across the battery +ve to the alternator earth. The reading should be very similar. .

Its not VW and inclined to think its a redundant alarm control unit. .

Glad to hear :) .

I would suggest not because of the low voltage involved in that circuit and a switch's contacts losses. .

Polo's and other VW's of the same age used the same base/aerial. Must be plenty at a scrap yard. Just make sure its a post 1994 car with no separate power wire. Try http://www.vws.me.uk/. Prices are decent and parts I've had have been fine. .

"Currently we drive this car on our own policies as we are all fully comp ourselves but what exactly our we covered for in a crash. My policy says I can drive other peoples car with their permission 3rd party but is this correct? " I'm guessing but your own insurance is for domestic, pleasure & to/from work. Unless your policy covers you to drive on comapny business, your insurance will be regarded as null & void. Secondly, even though your policy states you can drive anything else (within class) as 3rd party, not entirely safe for above I've stated but you also have to inform your insurance before doing so. (Simple case say.... you drive a Corsa, then borrow a M3. The cost base of your insurance premium isn't based on that.) So I think you will almost certainly run aground on both these points when you phone your insurance to inform them. Do not assume without their nod and a cover note. Your Ops Mgr is well off side and under company law I think can be prosecuted. The way out of jail is for his policy to name you all as drivers of the vehicle. No use of your own insurance. .

The two "on-top" bolts are in the ignition lead channels front & back. Yes they do "normally" hold the coil pack cover down unless MP knows otherwise. Not the rectangular flat top cover itself. You'll see the star heads if you look between the ignition leads as they come onto the channels front & back, just by the joint of the coil pack cover to the main cover. The main HT leads channels do not need to be removed, nor do the ignition leads other than to part them to get at the star head bolts. And I forgot, the vacuum pipe from the inlet manfold needs to be untangled from the edge of the coil pack cover. No need to disconnect this, it should just move out of the way once the pipe is out of the cup mounting point in the coil pack cover. ---------- Post added at 10:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:57 PM ---------- Tightening Torques: Star bolts - 5Nm Allen Key bolts - 10Nm Cam Shaft Sensor bolt - 10Nm .

Pull ignition leads off the coil pack. 3 star key head bolts, two top left on main engine cover, one on the back face, left side. Pull side cover out between the throttle cable etc. after initally lifting over the securing threaded studs where the star bolts are located. Undo 4 allen key head bolts to free the coil pack. Cam pos. sensor is there in front of you. Undo the holding bolt. Extract the sensor making sure the plastic collar comes with it. Reverse is as they say...... VCDS Clear the fault in the engine ECU. Take for a drive and at least one touch the red line engine RPM to make sure the new sensor works all the way. Recheck VCDS to make sure no fault code has returned. Job done .

Fuse 21 - 15 amps .

That's your problem. If it is an electically coupled one, the digital wave form shape will not have the correctly shaped rising edge to the digital pulses. And if it is an opto-isolated one, it won't work with the 9A engine ECU... full stop. .

Yes, the Engine ECU is fickle as said. Need to be precise with the digital signal shaping. The ABS working is not proof the cable is compatible with the engine ECU. What cable have you got? .

That will do it. If still problems, then if its a 3rd party diagnostics lead, not Ross-Tech, the ECU can be fickle about the lead's electronics. .

Just put the hose back on, plug the sender in and top up with plain water (you ain't working at sub zero artic temps (well, not yet)). Then run it to open up the thermostat to get the amount you mention as expected. When filled statically, you will have to run it again to open the thermostat, run initially with the header tank cap off and continue topping up. Seem to remember putting in half a header tank full last September, ie. the whole of the bottom half after putting on the header tank cap. Fill to the halfway as final level when warm. Down 5 to 7mm from midway when cold. .

Good point. I'm too old and remember Imperial Quarts & Guineas :lol: It will always be mixed a little as you won't get it out of the shaft bearings. A second fill may give you better but it still won't be perfect. Is this the VR6? If so, warm the engine to open the thermostat. Why the rad hose????? There is a little drain plug on the cross pipe just behind and slightly to the left (inboard) of the alternator. You can see it with a torch on the underside of the cross pipe. The stopper with knurled edge is about the size of a 10p coin and its thickness visible is about the same as a 10p coin. Watch you hand when finally removing the last turn of the stopper and it starts to drain. The engine core coolant will be at operating temp. I usually leave mine a couple hours to allow the core to cool a little but the thermostat is still open a little. If the thermostat is open, all the coolant will come out. If its closed, you only get out 3/4trs. (Same would apply if you went the rad hose way method and it would be less I think.) .

1 quart = 2 pints = 1.14 litrs. Therefore 1 full & about 2/3rds from a second quart bottle. There are no pockets inside that store gear oil. But you can create one if the Corrado is jacked up cos it puts the drian hole near the higher point and that would cause oil to stored in the bottom of the gearbox towards the engine end. Have you done that by accident??? I empty/fill (all VW boxes) with wheels on level ground, no jacking. .

Its 2.0 litres (VW workshop manual) for all gearbox codes with the gearbox level, not a jacked up car. If you jack up and try to put more in, you risk it blowing the shaft seals or it will weep past anyway, cos its too full. Being wet, it works out at about 1.90 ltrs that is put back in. Best way to drain a gearbox is with the oil warm to hot (ie. 30 mins running time). It flows faster and therefore drags debris out better. Plus there is less left clinging to internal gears and shafts. Leave until the drips are down to one every 2 seconds. Call it a day at that point. .

Works wonders..... Einszett Gummi Pflege Stick - Rubber Door Seal Restorer http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/260875553409?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar .

It will just the wire going into a small common electrical block, nothing special. Follow the wire from the spoiler controller by the headlight switch. Thats the easiest way to find it. The speed signal comes into K. K is derived from the back of the instrument cluster on connection T28/pin 7 (lilac wire). That signal enters the cluster on pin T28/pin 27 (white wire). It outputs on T28/27 goes to fuse relay panel plug U1/pin 11 and exits on plug G1/pin11 to the speed sender pin 2 (white wire with blue stripe). .

1991 Spoiler Circuit [ATTACH=CONFIG]51129[/ATTACH] .

Very true, but where did it say LEDs.... Or am I just getting senile drawing my pension. :lol: Won't blow the LEDs anyhow. .