RW1

By all accounts that one should work with a 16v 2.0ltr. Did you set VAG-COM up to be at 4,800 "start baud" rate in "Options" so that the programme is pre-set that way before VAG-COM application is started. As registration is PC based, I run one copy of VAG-COM in a separate directory that starts at 9600 and have another in a separate directory which starts at 4800. Corrado modules are 9600 baud rate with this exception. If it still doesn't work, there may be something perculiar about the SKPang interface the 16v ECU doesn't like. The only way to verify is to get someone elses to prove interrogation that is a know workable interface with the 16v. .

Opto isolation is a light isolated coupling using LEDs and sensors inside integrated circuit component casings to "flash" the data pulses which providing voltage isoaltion of the car's circuits from the laptop/PC circuit voltages. Where as in a electronic version, it's intrgrated circuit packaged transistors that do the voltage isolation. In the 16v, the isolation type has to be right. Ask skprang which sort they supplied to you. .

I can't be serious about this one really as you asked for it. :lol: Local motor shop - silicon oil spray is the serious answer. .

It happened on in the early 1990's. There was a bulletin and a few instances of snapped/sheared bolts. I guess a change of tyre width put more strain on the rest of the mechanicals. Hence my comment as the design of G60/16v is not as beefed up as a VR6 for the power and torque. So going VR6 ---> to G60/16v is loading the mechanicals. All will work I'm sure, but the "life" of it may fatigue something early and at 70mph etc..... .

Just be aware that a G60 use to rip it's 4 stud bolt arrangement with sporty driving. Putting a VR6 on 4 stud needs a bit of strengthening. Standard parts may not last. .

If the interface is optically isolated then it won't work. The interface MUST be an electronic isolation type for the 16v 2.0ltr. .

It never stops (timing, lambda, temperatures etc.). Arbitary value. The driver wouldn't notice the very small increments of change. It just a continual drift one or another to meet emission requirements, performance, fuel economy. Remember the situation is driven by emissions, not performance. That is what the ECU reset process is a about, returning the engine back to (as soon as possible) and then maintaining the best emission standard possible. Change of petrol will change performance but the ECU will also adjust continually for the best emissions possible. Yes you will get a benefit from a tank of 98/99RON, but to get the best all round, cos of the C VR6 engine/ECU design, the fuel grade needs to be maintained at the higher octane it was designed to give the 190bhp stock power. gavkt's original question was looking for a magical switch. It doesn't exist. The alternative answer to that is to look at changing the intake temperature probe reading, to change the fuelling a little. BTW, factory dyno plots show very little engine performance difference below 4,000 rpm but from own experience there is a slight change. So it depends how you want to drive the C.. .

Given, the thermostat "fixed" the cold pipe off the radiator, maybe this is more than one fault. If the fan is running on it's own accord, then either the thermoswitches are "ON" or the fan controller is doing something. Next time the fan is running. Disconnect the radiator thermoswitch down below the battery if it still runs, then disconnect the yellow temp sensor/thermoswitch in the thermosat housing. If niether stops the fan, then that leaves the fan controller itself or you have an electrical wire fault somewhere. The odd thing here is the high switch on temperature above at 115'C which suggests that's either the third stage fan speed switching ON because 1 & 2 have failed to come on or the second stage fan speed is on one end of the tolerance (high end) when it comes on. The third stage thermoswitch (black) is also located in the thermostat housing. .

Best to leave well alone. Neither disconnecting or allowing the ECU slowly to adjust will solve your query. In disconnecting, the ECU is in a rapid learn mode for 10 minutes but this only makes the car's ECU reach a driveable emission level quickly. It then settles down and continues to adjust very slowly. It will take several more hours (at least 5 hours running time) to reach somewhere near the peak settings. If the ECU is left untouched, the continual adjustments will acheive just the same in a similar time. In the case of the Corrado VR6, the only way is to run the engine using the same fuel (brand & grade) ALL the time and let the ECU "move" to the new settings that it's using to adjust the factory dyno map (or remapping) by. Even each fuel load from the same brand & grade will vary slightly. .

News to me. Pump and ABS ECU don't need matching other than it should if it includes the valve block be the traction control type, ie. same number of pipe connections. .

The Halfords one is now Laser at £19.95. It's two cut-out section in the rim lip of the piston that it engages. .

The thermostat looks as though it open OK ( abit bit short but it depends on exactly what temp it was so not worth persuing at this stage). So why the lower rad rubber pipe is cold on the bottom hose at fully warmed up engine temperatures??? Can only think that the radiator is blocked which I don't believe or the negine wasn't fully warm, ie. it had been running at least 15 minutes before you did the check. The yellow temp switch is only the run on after ignition off, so if thats defo not working when you expect with a very hot engine it's suspect after your jumpr wire check. But also, check the volts on the wires on the rad thermoswitch before changing it to be sure the two output wires have volts or not as above before replacing it. No extra fuses in the car, it's fuse 19 on the rack of them on the bottom edge of the fuse panel. Other 3 fuses I mentioned are in the little clear plastic cover bit on the fan controller by the header tank in the engine bay. Is the pump pulley being turned by the serpentine belt on the right side of the engine??? .

Orientation of the whole heating unit is different for LHD & RHD Corrados. The socket on the unit is "turned" so as to prevent strain on the wires in the connecting loom. .

Sure it's the gearbox???? Gear oil, water or engine oil???? If so, four places generally, filler plug on front face, drain plug at the back under the differential bit, around the drive shafts seals above the drain plug on either side of the differential and finally, the gearbox driveshaft input seal inside the clutch bell housing which will show up as a leak dripping off the bottom of the bell housing. .

It's not got a duration, it's there if things start to overheat. What makes it go generally is friction in the fan unit, so when it blows as Superchareg says cos the dropping resistor (green thing) gets hotter than it should. The fan should be checked, particularly for debris inside the bottom of the fan and also the bottom (lowest) bearing which tend to need a bit of axle grease to put things back to normal. .

Symptoms of the thermostat is shut/stuck. Housing 021 121 117A Housing seal to engine 021 121 119A Thermostat 075 121 113D Thermostat seal N 901 368 02 It's assumed all bolts will be re-useable. You should only need the last two parts but as previously above, the housing is brittle after 10 years and will almost certainly give you problems. .

Isn't one 3 speed, the other 4 speed??????

No, just have to have the right "short" or "odd" tools to get in. Granted it's VERY awkward. Skinned knuckles I seem to remember last time I was working in that area. .

Yep. Yes it would as the yellow sensor in the thermostat housing runs that bit. First check the fuse 19 ( 30amps ) on the fuse panel in the driver's side footwell. Then check the three fuses in the fan controller ( the plate thing is a 50 amp fuse). Then check the volts in and out on the rad thermo-switch when you expect it to be running. The red wire is volts in and is battery 12 volts sourced so ignition switched on isn't needed. The outputs are 12 volts on the other two wires, stage one red/white and stage 2 red/black. Invariably if you take the thermastat housing apart, it breaks due to heat making it brittle. So it is a thermostat + housing + seal. Three sensors should be re-usable. Don't forget to slide the clip out before pulling out the sensors. They are just plugged into the holes. .

All the same resistor pack but there is a LHD & RHD. 535 959 263 & 536 959 263. Corrado specific parts. See for repairs......... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34264 .

Don't believe that, sure the parts man hasn't looked at the early slider type control’s switch. The 3 dial style is £184........ Icegeezer, the thermo - resistor has gone in the fan unit shut resistor pack on the side of the fan unit. .

Fan run-on with ignition off is one half of the yellow sensor in the themostat housing. The thermo switch - two temps for general driving is the one half way down the black rad plastic end piece on the battery end with thick red wires going to it. If driving, cooling in the main is just airflow pushed in by the car moving but the fan should operate if slowing from higher speeds or standing traffic and it depends on conditions. If you are saying it is overheating while on the move, then the suspect may be the thermostat (ie. not fully opening). Check how hot the radiator on the two connection pipe to the engine. Both should be hot when the engine is warmed up. Also, check the water pump pulley is rotating although I would have thought you would hear it squealing if stopped. Not conclusive th ewater pump is OK but it's a quick confidence check before getting serious on it. .

Yellow sensor in the thermostat housing controls this. - Check that one of the plug wires are not loose touching earth. - Check when the engine is doing it the yellow sensor across pins 1 & 4. It should be open cicuit if the engine is cooler. If closed circuit, it's signalling the fan controller to run the fan with engine off. May be simpler just to pull the plug off the yellow sensor. If it's causing it, the fan should stop. - It still runs with the yellow sensor disconnected, then suspect the fan controller. But just check the wiring is OK going into the controller underneath it at the plugs. .

Also, may have removed glazing off the surface of the pads. Depends how the shorter braking runs are done. Frequent light braking in driving locally sometimes a good hard sharp braking stop just to sharpen up and remove glazing. Alternative is that the pads fitted are fast road or similar and need to really warmed up to get the best out of them. .

In view the battery has been changed, just check the two battery connections are fully gripping, ie, you can' t twist them by hand. Don't over tighten, only 10ftlb max. torque required. Check the alternator belt is tensioned correctly with engine stopped. Ie. no more than 1cm to 1.5cm deflection on the longest distance between pulleys in the loop. Although self tensioning, it may be weak or stuck if the deflection is greater. .