Toad

Nah, easy, you'll need 2 new jubilee clips for it, unless they're supplied by VW.

It's a plastic disk, about 2 inches across, that fits in the crankcase breather pipe between the rocker cover and inlet tubing. Basically it stops crankcase fumes from being ingested at idle I believe.

Looks nice in the pics dude...

Probably PCV valve then.

Look lovely. :)

Errr. Could be the carbon canister, the pcv valve, the isv silencer box.

KADVR is looking to get stainless sumps made... Have a search for them.

Nah, got a second car I can nick it from. Wouldn't give yours away. ;)

Lol. I might have a second spare arch seeing as you're so close. I'm just outside Winchester.

Wow. That doesn't look happy. Plenty of people breaking cas on here though, i'm sure that one of them would cut you out a panel and send it. I would offer, but mine is already promised to someone else... Good example of rust building up in the bottom of the rear quarter panel on the inside in the bottom right of the pic. Also looks like your filler neck is rotting out. Best sort that now too. Good luck!

Ooops! Sorry.

I like the look of Walruses, they look old and clever.

I've not fitted mine yet, so I haven't a clue on settings. But you can move the circlip depending on how high you want the rear of the car.

Yeah, especially the rear quarter panels. I luckily have a supply of corrados to snuffle fixings from :)

Almost definitely oil pressure. Especially when accompanied by roundabouts.

Looks like I spoke too soon. I've tried looking for the guide I used and can't find it, so here goes... Remove sunvisors, passenger side has wires for the light running into the headlinging, pull them out slightly and unplug. Remove grab handle on passenger side. Remove interior light and sunroof motor cover. Remove coat hanger hooks by pulling the rubber cover up and off and unscrewing the metal section. Remove rear seat bases. Remove rear quarter panels. Undo front seat belts from B pillar, making sure that the belt does not retract fully. Remove B pillar covers (screws mid way down sliding section) adjuster knob can be removed by pulling it away from the B pillar. Remove parcel shelf supports Remove rear seat belts from C pillars making sure belt does not retract fully Remove C pillar covers At this point you should have the A pillar covers, the sunroof hole surround and the plastic trims above the front and rear screens holding the headlining in. Best to grab a mate now to help lift the fragile headling out. Remove the A pillar trims, remove the rubbery sunroof hole surround by bulling it inwards, then while someone holds the headlinging in place remove the rear trim. The rear roof trim, the rear quarter panel and the A and the C pillar trims are fitted with push fittings, so can be pulled off. This is all off the top of my head, so isn't hugely detailed and could be missing a few steps. You'll need a flat bladed screw driver, a phillips screw driver, a 19mm or a 17mm socket or spanner.

Is that the compresser stalling? Also would I be right in thinking that the anti surge housing is more important on turbos that spool up quicker?

I'm sure there's a guide. Try looking for removing sunroof, or fitting moon roof or something. I could tell you how to do it, but it'll take me a while.

What's the difference in the housings? How come you've changed them?

Here is what it should look like...

I believe the corrado manual tells you to drive away as soon as possible, but not to use excessive revs, or to let the engine labour until it's warm. There's loads of ways of looking at this. TBH.

The cats, the metal gear solid character, or a musician?

Are you sure it's not the thermostat housing that is leaking? Even if it isn't you should look to replace it when changing the thermostat. The VR radiators should be cheaper than that, more like £150. I don't believe you can get them recored, as they have plastic end tanks.

I've found some things out. Standard cams, 10.2mm lift, 240 degree duration. Need opening/closing degrees for inlet and exhaust. Schimmel cams, 11.4mm lift, 263 degree duration, 115 degree lobe centres. need at least one valve opening point to work out the rest of the information. Shrick cams, 11.4 mm lift, 268 degree duration, 115 degree lobe centres. Again, I need at least one valv opening (or closing point) to work out the rest of the information I need. Anyone able to help out? Or even point out that I have something wrong. Lol

The bolts that go vertically between the two halves often fall out which might not help.