Jim Bowen

Nice site, just building a cart up off all the bits i still need, thinking of getting some VR6 timing tensioner and bolt from there, quite cheap, just unsure if VW branded or not. Also, noticed the description on this: http://www.evwparts.com/vwparts/2_8VR6OilSystem/053103663.html Interesting.

With the thud noise and the fact it got stuck until you rolled it, i would think it at least need to checked out thoroughly rather than just changing the gasket. Might have damage to a cylinder

The rough running on mine was the piston chamber slightly filling up with coolant. I'd check your plugs and turn it over by hand. Doesn't sound good tbh.

Did you use your shift tower on the other gearbox or did it come with one? Also the shifter mech inside the car. Think that had a few bits that can wear.

Mine was really hard to diagnose. Changed everything else so knew it couldn't be much else. Could still drive it fine but coolant loss was as you describe. Ended up swapping the engine as once old one was apart I could see it was head gasket. The only thing I did notice was one spark plug slightly cleaner than the others but was very slight. Does it run lumpy at all in the mornings or after being stood for about 12hrs. I also got quite a bit of steam/white smoke out the exhaust when first started. Rad top hose was getting really solid as well, after a drive.

Got the coilpack today, thanks for that.

Carbon wings should always be worth quite a bit if you ever come to sell them on in the future, that's how i've convinced myself. :lol:

Starting to think I want a carbon bonnet and wings.

I would also like to know more about it, on a VR6 though, can smell fuel around my corrado and not sure where its coming from.

I have one of the small powder ones in the glovebox, almost a perfect fit, and then a large (think its foam) in the boot. Was watching/reading about car fires and although the dry powder puts out flames it doesn't offer much cooling and the fire can easily reignite. So got the foam as well.

They sell a camo paint as it happens :lol: I reckon it must be three bottles of different camo colours.

yeah, can get that tool for cheap on ebay, i got one with red handles and it works fine.

I wasn't going to mention the cost of all the bits, i did the complete outer cv's and hubs as well

I'm not bothered about the removal stories, i would expect it to need paint afterwards anyway, looks quite a mess at the moment, i need to treat some rust so will probably have some patches of primer anyway. Have looked into vinyl wrapping it myself, but looks a nightmare, especially sills, tailgate and a few other funny edges/trim bits. Thinking of getting a dent guy out first. Might just try my wheels first.

Looking for parts and seems to be two of them, i have replaced the flywheel end once before, but the other end looks a bit harder (plus i can't get the crank undone) Does it need renewing? Bascially, i've got old 200,000mile block with crank still installed, and that new ebay block without a crank. Am taking both to Stealth racing and having the crank swapped over and bottom end built up. Will Vince need to replace the crank seal on the pulley end? Looking online it seems to come with the whole metal cover as well, rather than just pressing a seal into the cover like the flywheel end.

I know some people hate the idea, but found out that Matt Pack, who supply a lot of the gear are only 4 miles away from me, i can't afford a respray right now, car is covered in stone chips. So half thinking of trying this plastidip out, just as a temporary thing for a year or two. Anyone have any experience of it? Will buy the proper gun, have seen some examples and up close the finish is a bit textured which i'm not too keen on. Also heard people talk about door shuts getting a light dusting and it being a pig to remove, i figured i will just wax those areas and leave the wax on while i spray, then wipe that off. My other dilemma is what colour to choose, most of the basic colours are matt and a single colour but they do some fancy stuff.

To powder coat/refurb: Subframe Rear beam Wishbones Anti roll bar Wheel bearing housing(or hub as some call it) Rad Support Lower cross member (with front engine mount in it) Brake calipers Small brackets that hold ARB bushes on (inboard one that fix to subframe) Steering rack bush bracket Parts you might replace: Wheel bearing ARB Droplinks Wishbones bushes (front and rear) Engine and gearbox mounts Brake dust shields Lower Ball joints Steering rack bush ARB bushes Track rods Track rods ends ABS sensors (hard to remove in one piece if having bearing housing refurbed) ABS rotors Bolts worth renewing: Subframe bolts x 4no Wishbone bolts x 2no each side Lower ball joint bolts and fixing plate (3no and 1no plate each side) ARB drop link bolts (2no each side, nut and a bolt) ARB Bush bolts x 2no Worth noting a new wheel bearing comes with hub nut, Ball joint nut, track rod end nut and i think 2no locking nuts for the shock absorber lower bolts. Rear beam nuts and bolts x 2no Brake dust shield bolts (3no each side)They can be quite corroded. Front bumper bolts x 4no Cross member bolts (think it 4no of them, might be 6no) (can't remember if they share the bumper bolts or not) Am sure there is more but i'm starting to struggle to remember, probably worth getting some new clips for brake lines, heat shields etc

I have two spare pulleys but can't get them off the alternators :lol:

You can remove one of the three bolts that holds the tensioner on and it fits into that hole to release the tension. Will be adding a new tensioner to my list then. Had planned to use an old one. The metal spring is pretty massive gauge so I thought it would be ok.

I can't find that pedal on heritage site?

http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Brake-Fluid-Reservoir-cap-Mk2-Golf-Corrado-RHD-358611349_act_shop.product_pID_136306718.htm?crumbStartPage=1

I was looking at that on vwheritage the other day and wondered if it came with the lid, Only because if you look at all the listings there is a lid listed on its own and quite expensive.

Poo, i've missed it, is it too late to pay, have forgot to check this thread.

Tried bleeding it last night, couldn't get any air out and didn't make any difference. If anything it got worse, i think it a bearing issue now as its making a rattling noise now. Used my new mechanics stethoscope and sounds like its coming from the clutch. Giving up for now, will fix it when new engine goes in. New clutch and slave cylinder arrived today, just need an engine :lol:

Can't remember what i paid for a clutch kit from VW, something like £260 and had to give the old one back. Decided to buy from eurocarparts this time as the clutch kit was £100, ordered late yesterday afternoon and arrived first thing this morning. Box and clutch look exactly the same as the VW stuff. Will get it fitted and report back. VW replacement didn't last as long as the original clutch. Think it was the bearing that went and somehow caused it to wear the clutch out.