Jim Bowen

Ordered the switch so get that tomorrow, will have a proper look then, think i've got a good list of things to check now, cheers. Will report back (when i get stuck no doubt)

Something i worry about is i've heard some sort of bush getting mentioned on the end of the starter motor? I remember a little copper coloured ring on the end of it, is that what people mean? Otherwise i worry i missed something out

Its not cranking at the moment, just a click from a relay (109 i think) can you buy relays from anywhere or are they VW specific? Just incase i need to change them at any point. Am now thinking about buying spares for the future problems i'm likely to have. The hot start problem just happened twice and its not done it since, The starter motor groan/overrun has slowly started to happen more and more. But like i say, it did that since i bought the car 6yrs ago and i've recently changed the motor and noise didn't happen for the first couple of weeks.

I had this issue and found it to be the lever part inside door needing greasing. Might not always be that but solved my problem. I had to reach inside the door from the gap between window and door frame and pull a lever up. ---------- Post added at 9:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 9:45 AM ---------- Bit weird photos but this is the bit i had to pull upwards and with door shut and window half open i got to it from here

Forgot to mention, the 2 non-starts when it was hot, it was cranking but just kept turning over. I did a multi meter test on battery this morning (all i had time to check) and it was 12.6v which is ok isn't it? Will order a switch today anyway as its the original as far as i know and cars nearly done 200,000miles. Going to check starter power etc as described, cheers. Had a quick look and can see the solonoid as well, are they expensive?

I find the cardboard doesn't always help as most leaks seem to end up on top of gearbox or running along the rad support panel. I find a good way is to go for a spirited drive then come back and look for steam

Could something else be causing it as swapped complete starter motor unit. Am thinking to try a switch and new battery. My battery is quite old and did sit in garage for 18months. Although I charged it every few months. Is the starter solenoid easy to get off? Didn't really notice it before. Just thought it was all one thing.

Just thinking about things now. Starter motor always made a noise like was continuing to run after car started. Like the noise if you turn the key with engine running. I changed the starter motor while doing the rebuild for a low mileage one off the forum. Noise went away but came back quite quickly. Last month a couple of times the car wouldn't start both hot starts. Stopped for fuel and 2nd time was a bacon roll. Also notice quite a change in engine note and vibration when turning lights or fans on. Like a power drop. Have had a couple of times when I stop at a junction at night the idle feels too low and car shakes. Goes away with a little rev. ---------- Post added at 9:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:05 PM ---------- Can't heat starter motor doing anything.

Had it back on road for 2 months now and had to abandon it and stick it back in garage 4 times. Won't start now. Ignition comes on. Then when I turn key to start it. Nothing. Can hear a relay click. No turning over. Am thinking ignition switch. Not sure immobiliser is playing up. Dont really know how to tell. Any tests I can do? Will order ignition switch anyway. Can I disconnect immobiliser at all? In the meantime its back to driving the reliable little french car that never goes wrong. Lol

I wouldn't know how much parts costs for a 2.0, the VR6 parts can seem expensive, but depends what you compare them to. I don't find starter motors, alternators, batteries, suspension, bushes that much more expensive that any other similar car, in fact when i see some of the modern prices the corrado can seem cheap. How much is a BMW headlight these days/, even a corsa wingmirror can be hundreds of pounds. What makes a VR6 expensive to own is the labour costs imo, things are easy to change but getting to them takes the time. The way i talked myself into getting a VR6, was if i don't feel its for me after 6-12months, then i could sell it back on for a small loss or probably the same price. 6yrs later i still have it and no job/problem seems to make me want to part with it. try it, you might like..

I get about 320-350 miles from a full tank, which is about 70 or 75 litres

I find the hard to spot leaks can be on the back of the rad, pipes going into aux water pump and the temp sender on the side of radiator. Am trying to find a leak on mine at the moment, but everything is pretty much new so still looking/tightening things

You will either love it or hate it. Good luck.

Quick video of the setup I'm running.

Its doesn't seem too bumpy and crashy, the shocks seems to be doing their job quite well imo. Its just stiff and wandering over the road a lot with the change in camber on the road or rough repair. I still feel convinced its something in the steering rack/column. I overtook someone last night, and was fighting the steering wheel left and right like crazy as i put my foot down and crossed the white line. Think i am going to order some adjustable rear shocks and some lowering springs and just try that out for now, that's what the guy who did wheel alignment though would be a good place to start. I do have powerflex rear bushes (am thinking i will get another rear beam soon and get it powder coated and fitted with standard VW bushes as well. Maybe this is why VW let them out the factory with tractor ride height, they must of known :lol: ---------- Post added at 12:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ---------- Have got the fixed column parts i bought off Neil but never fitted them at the time. Might get round to fitting that in the spring

Could be the stalk/switch itself, my lights one packed up recently, couldn't work it out and must of been something wrong with the earth part of the switch. I used a £15 ebay one to replace it.

1988-1992 =early 1992-1995 = late

Nah, i'm not one for lowering too much, just couldn't bear looking at the standard ride height (plus when i bought the car the standard suspension was past it so needing changing anyway) I have been wondering if the fact i don't have much movement in the springs is what has made it so stiff. Or will the spring be just as compressed if i wind it down which would also lower the car.

http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/wheelwax.php?manufacturers_id=22&osCsid=4991df7064b0146de58c7a3d203e8412 I use that, but i can't compare it to anything, and my wheels were newly refurbed when i first applied it so hard to tell. If i could find a suitable pot i could post you a small sample out of my pot. Lots of people recommend the poorboys stuff. I would like to try that next time.

Got car back yesterday and the garage reckon the problem is my suspension is too firm which is causing the bad handling. Is it the springs that make suspension too stiff?? Am wondering whether its possible to get some custom springs on the KW's? What is the point of the helper spring? Can that be ditched and a longer single spring be put in? Or, i try some Koni shocks on the rear with some springs? Don't know what to do now, but i'm just driving the car a bit slower on crap roads now. In fact i can't drive fast anywhere really :lol:

I think it gives a bad image really. The type of person to buy it will have to be a badge snob and a bit ignorant. But mainly quite well off. Plenty of those people about in cities. And I gather you need a car with a fancy overpriced edge to it in order to be a somebody in the city. Its mainly just another fashion accessory for the rich. Its not going to go down in history as a great small iconic aston. Its just a rebranded white goods ****box to me.

Needs a corrado badge imo

Got it back and steering feels more firm when turning but still handles bad on rough roads. Garage took it out for a drive and has advised the suspension is too firm. Especially the rear end. I might try some springs and shocks on the rear and leave coilovers on front for now.

I went to the effort of the 406mm measurement when I had the steering rack off. Have had tracking done since and didnt bother to say about adjusting one side only. Can't really say it matters tbh. After dismantling everything and rebuilding it. It was only a couple of mm out. (Track rod length).

I had one years and years ago and it didn't work, but i've never been able to get radio working in any car i own and changed the headunit on. Its a weird curse i seem to have.