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Content Count
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3
Everything posted by Jim Bowen
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Some people wire a switch in so they can turn the fans on when sat in traffic, maybe worth considering, not sure how well the rad fans will move air over the oil cooler though, depending where its mounted.
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The easiest thing to do is to not bother with an extra oil cooler. Are they really needed? I know my car has achieved 236,000miles with a standard oil cooler and never had an oil overheating problem.
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I'd just drill the screw out. Its quite small and just helps locate the disc. Not fitted them back to mine as half the screw is still in the hole. I bought a new wheel bearing and noticed it comes with a new screw for that
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Your current pic is the slave cylinder and the new part is a master
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Does your existing line from brake res have a similar looking connector on it? It might be that you can pull the white bit out? Does it sit in a rubber bung?
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Noticed this too today. Also using the photobucket site has been a bit crappy the last few years. They seem to have stuck loads of adverts on there. Not sure what I'll do. Been meaning to move to another hosting sure but probably got over 1000 photos to sort out. Not to mention all the ones on past phones.
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Definitely sounds different to me, sounds more like an R32 to me.
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I've got it all on now, but considering taking it off again and going back to standard cat. :lol: Its not massively louder but just a bit too much for me, i think driving the 1.0 fiesta that doesn't make a noise hasn't helped.
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I just use a G clamp to push the pistons back on the front.
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Similar thing happened to mine. Still unsure what happened. Have you had any work done recently?
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If its just the head gasket you need, i could probably part with mine. I was expecting to swap a head but didn't need to in the end.
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£2-3k in repairs and paint imo, and then you have interior to sort. Fair enough it has a few spares though
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Never understood why people just leave rust to get worse
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I bought the head set and all looks decent quality, didn't fit the headgasket but used the exhaust and inlet stuff.
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I think what happened was last time i took front end apart, i took the hub/bearing housing to the garage and they fitted new bearings, but when i renewed the cv joints/hub flange i had problems with the spline fittings. Garage advised me to hammer the new cv joint into the hub/bearing, so i started to do that but as i hammered it started to push the hub out (separating the bearing slightly) so the garage just pressed it back together. Been causing problems ever since.
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Just ordered the SNR bearing, came out at £33 with a discount code. Will try fitting it myself i think, am sure last time i asked the garage to replace this bearing they charged me £80 for the bearing and just tightened up the hub nut instead of fitting a new bearing. Hence the noise is back after a few thousand miles.
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Has anyone fitted front bearings without a press?
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I maintain engine conversions are harder to figure out problems. 12v it imo :lol:
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Not really had much chance to check my warm starts since getting car back on road. Am trying to think through why it does it. If its a problem with something heating up you'd expect some sign when driving.
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Watch it one day i will
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Replaced all mine, am sure its pretty similar dia to aquarium airline. Might have been what i used.
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The only thing i've noticed is i think the shaft that connects to the pedal is a bit longer than the original
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I was looking at parts diagrams and there seems to be a few valves within the fuel system and methods of testing them, like on the neck of fuel tank and the carbon cannister.