Jim Bowen

mine arrived today, thanks very much Neil

i asked the guy who owned the car before me and he said he had done it once before, but will check it out. i think i have an interesting discovery to make behind the dash, was something dripping once, looked up from footwell and saw/felt a big lump of mastic or sealant, didn't look like it was meant to be there, so i never looked again and it never leaked again, might of been some sort of aircon thing.

if we all searched for the answer wouldn't it be called a book rather than a website? i don't mind people asking questions that might of been answered before, its how real life happens!

started removing mine today, got a few pipes off, the rad and that round cylinder in front of rad. had pressure in the system still as it hissed out for a while. looks a bit harder to get at the dash bits, but will remove dash if i have to

painted my rubstrips asap, the silver ones are just rubbish looking

i stopped paying for servicing at about 150,000miles and started doing it myself, i didn't think the cost of servicing was adding any value to a high mileage car

when i looked at buying one, i just bought one, after looking on ebay at what people pay for a 2nd hand one, i decided if it was no good i could sell for a very small loss.

i just want something cheap i add to my spec list.........

Seems a real bargain that, am so tempted to replace mine, had the same thoughts when Bill sold his recently. Am sure mine will cost more than £3k to get how i want it, and even then it will still have the standard 200,000mile vr6 engine in there :(

if it fits straight on a 1995 VR6, i will have one, mine has been bashed ---------- Post added at 10:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:03 AM ---------- looks quite different on the outside, why are there holes on the side of it?

i use the double sided foam strips you can buy at most small garages/petrol stations, they are called number plate adhesive foam strips. they have never fallen off and i only have two holding rear plate on. They also easy to remove with fishing line behind the plate and using a sawing action to cut through the foam

thats sounds similar to what i had to do on my escort to renew the outer CV boot, was a circlip buried in all the grease that i had to undo then driveshaft slid out. thinking i might go with lowering car to the ground, as i am thinking of sandblasting the hubs and painting them, so probably best in the long run

just taking everything to bits really, having subframe off soon, fitting new rack and column, but also decided to take everything off and refurb it all while i'm there.

I not sure if i've gone wrong here, but car is in the air with no wheels or brakes and i now want to removing driveshafts and the hubs. can i just unbolt them from the gearbox end and leave them attached to the hub? I haven't undone the big nut in middle of hub and can't stop things spinning now? anything i need to be aware of?

is it my eyes or does it have one early headlight and one late headlight?

didn't even know they had been made yet :! hope i don't miss out

Nothing there i want or need, not sure whether i'm pleased or miffed, i should be happy really, but feel like i want to buy a bargain.......:lol:

do i need to pay anyone yet, not looked at this thread for ages

Doesn't look a heap at all. If you fix the engine problem, then at least you know you have a nice looking corrado with a good engine. I'd rather keep a car i know, and fix things, then decide another car isn't going to go wrong. Think if someone bought it and fixed it quite cheaply, bet you would feel a bit gutted then

yep, nearer to 185bhp with the OBD2

i'd like carbon fibre wings

CHASSIS & DRIVETRAIN (FRONT): Top mounts – Twice (VAG) - £60 Offside wishbone (VAG) - £75 Nearside wishbone – Twice (VAG) - £150 Lower Ball Joints (pair) (VAG) ARB Drop links (VAG) Track Rods + Ends (pair) - £110 Front wheel bearings (VAG) Steering rack gaiters (VAG) CHASSIS & DRIVETRAIN (REAR): Powerflex rear axle bushes, + fixings - £60 Rear wheel bearings (VAG) - £40 SUSPENSION: Weitec Ultra GT lowering kit (1st ) - £357 Pi lowering springs (2nd ) - £90 KW Variant 1 coil overs (3rd & current) - £570 Front Bumpstops & Covers (VAG) Rear Bumpstops & Covers (VAG) ENGINE: Coolant Hose, Block to heater (VAG) - £55 Samco coolant hoses & Stainless clips - £240 Gruvenparts radiator neck - £40 Gruvenparts crack pipe - £70 Coil pack (Beru)- £75 HT leads (Beru)- £90 Radiator (VAG) - £188 Thermostat & Housing (VAG) Magnex catback - £160 Clutch (VAG)- £340 Aux Water Pump (VAG)- £110 BRAKING SYSTEM: Front nearside brake caliper 280mm (VAG) - £70 Front Caliper upgrade - 288mm (VAG) - £65 Front Discs & Pads - 288mm (Brembo) - £70 Rear Brake Caliper upgrade - Mk4 Golf (VAG) - £187 Rear Discs & Pads (Brembo) - £60 Goodridge Braided brake hoses all round (6no.) - £65 All brake pipes replaced Handbrake cables (VAG) MISC: Audi TT wiper arms & Aero Wipers (VAG) - £105 Headlamp Protectors - £30 Headlamp Lens (VAG) - £30 FK De-badged front grill - £30 Leather Gear knob (VAG) - £25 Pedal Rubbers (VAG) - £13 Original Speedline Alloys refurbished Offside Front Foglight (VAG) - £70 All exterior badges replaced Set of wheel nut covers Clear Side repeaters Roof aerial gasket Headlamp Switch & Wiring loom (VAG) - £60 Bonnet release cable (VAG) Subframe bolts renewed (VAG) BMC cda Air induction kit - £90 got loads of paperwork i need to sort out

Steering column surround to suit the fixed column modification

i don't remember there being any reverse threads when doing mine and had them off a few times now only one i have found is in the exterior door handle

yep, am up to £4-5k spent and car looks pretty much standard still