Jim Bowen

Good review and info. A couple of wrong bits i noticed. I like the bit about electric wondows. Never really thought about it before but i remember it now.

While i was doing the timing on an engine i thought i'd take some pics to show the various timing marks etc (using a bit of advice from Vince at Stealth racing) I wasn't replacing the lower chain this time but can show what you want to achieve when timing the bottom end. Mark on the pulley, i stick some tape to the outside of pulley to make it easier to see quickly when turning it. First thing to note is the ground tooth on the crank sprocket If you look closely there is one tooth that has been ground so its different from all the others. This will want to line up with the seam on the block. On the intermediate sprocket there is an arrow, and you want that pointing vertically up, i found for each complete turn of the crank pully this arrow will move 90 degrees, so you may have to turn the crank a few turns. I had no cams in the engine at this point, but if cams are installed you will probably hit them with the pistons Another bit to note (this is what Vince told me), once you think the intermediate marking is lined up, check from above that you can see the little notch in the plastic, if you don't see this keep turning crank pulley until the sprocket mark is vertical and you can see the notch from above Cam want fitting so the smaller lobe is on top, the cam locking tool only fits one way anyway Once your at this point, i find it easiest to leave one cam sprocket off, fit the upper tensioner, drop the chain in to intermediate sprocket and one cam sprocket, and then fit the other cam sprocket to chain and then push it onto the cam, after all in place i then fit the black plastic guide. All fitted Nice way to lock the crank when using an engine stand After all is fitted, fit the upper chain cover and tensioner bolt and then turn crank pulley 4 complete turns and all the marks should end up where they were.

My fiesta is the 3 cylinder 1.0

The funny thing is, my new 2016 fiesta with 11k on the clock makes a similar tappy noise. Ford just say its characteristic of the engine and no action needed, its something to do with a high pressure fuel pump on side of engine. Makes me feel less worried about corrado noises :lol:

Am interested to see how this one sounds, as this is the one that had the top end tappy noise we dislike. But it had the 263 cams at the time and i've just put standards back in.

Cheers guys, there is niggle in my head that something is going to go wrong with the engine again. But can only try and see what happens. Some pics, everyone loves a pic right? Engine turned up, been in a container up at a friends unit for a couple of years. Gave it a degrease and steam clean, not going to bother painting it. Fitted the alloy cam cover, have put new lifters in and swapped over the timing gear from my other engine as it was all new stuff. Car got to see a bit of sunshine The mess, can see the engine on the left, ended up fitting most bits to it, had to stop as need new flywheel bolts, could probably be ready to fit it to car next weekend. Thanks dad for the garage!!!

Have heard some say the plastic is quieter. I just prefer the look of the metal

Finally got the spare engine home today. Went straight to work on it, but quite a bit done today. Fitted new lifters, put standard cams back in it, then just swapping a few bits over from previous engine. Got all the timing gear fitted. This engine has a plastic rocker cover and i noticed one of the bolts had snapped in half, not sure how that happened. Decided to put studs from the other engine in so i could use the alloy cover instead. Will get pics sorted out. Hoping to fit it to car next weekend.

I've always used Beru coilpack and leads and they have been fine for years, the coilpacks used to be about £100, but now seem to be £160ish

I spin the wheel up by hand and then tighten the nut until it starts to brake the wheel, then test to see how easily it free wheels. Although when i had mot done the guy said i needed to tighten them a bit, i didn't do that though.

Must admit the only thing i don't like is leaving the existing connectors on the back of the headlight unplugged and just shoving a spade terminal in one of them. I had planned to try and use the loom i bought to make a whole new loom from the dash etc. Never got round to it though

I'd get new pads, they aren't too expensive, but you really want the spring bit there to keep the pad in the correct place.

I went with the cheap ones from gsf, about £15 i think, worked fine, finally have ABS after 10yrs and 100,000miles :lol:

I bought one like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-MK3-2-8-VR6-PETROL-1992-1997-IDLE-AIR-CONTROL-VALVE-/111872739441?hash=item1a0c228871:g:HiwAAOSwwPhWlNy~

Not sure I've come across those either??

Think you have to remove the head to change the seals, i was trying to work it out at the weekend. So being a corrado its a good time to do the clutch/chains/tensioners/headgasket/fit a turbo and 6 spd gearbox.

Can sometimes hammer a socket over it, or get some irwin bolt removers

Managed to pull the middle bit out of one lifter, was interested to have a look The little piston seems to have a tiny ring on it, i wonder if this is meant to form a seal? No matter what i tried i couldn't get the squishy lifters to go firm, so ordered a complete new set, am wondering if its these lifters that cause the tappy top end a few suffer from.

I think cleaning is overrated, i had a suspect ISV, cleaned it, tested it with 12v refitted it and discounted that as a problem. After much head scratching i bought a "working used example", Cleaned it and tested it and fitted it and still the same issues so defiantly discounted it. Put up with the bad idle for ages, and then removed engine and fitted the new one, checked everything over. Still had the same problem.. Bought a brand new non-genuine ISV (about £40), fitted that and everything solved.

Ford Galaxy V6 engine.

Sounds right to me. A 10mm socket definitely wouldn't remove a spark plug

Just dismantling my head from the engine that suffered oil starvation. And noticed that with cams removed and head off the car, some of the lifters i could push down with my fingers and some rock solid. Took them out and the nipple bit in middle of lifter, i can push in and out with a squeeze, while others are solid. Does this mean anything? The head has been off car for about a year so is it just the oil has drained from some. Just debating whether to buy another set or reuse them? They have done 3000 miles but would also be going in a different engine.

I know that feeling :lol:

I've only renewed mine once and had them out about 6 times, my engine hasn't fallen out yet.

Could be worth trying a new isv. I'd lend you mine if you were nearby.