Jim Bowen

Can you get the lambda out with cat in place or do i need to remove the cat?

Cheers, think i have ordered the correct one then.

Scrap that, took a chance and ordered one now :lol: Went with No.2

Looking for a new Lambda sensor, Was going to go with a Bosch one, seems to be 4 different types 1) http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Corrado_2.9_1995/p/car-parts/car-body-parts-and-car-exhaust/exhausts/lambda-sensor/?710441715&1&dcec85e1dae26db12169a5864ad444b38160a388&000210 2) http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Corrado_2.9_1995/p/car-parts/car-body-parts-and-car-exhaust/exhausts/lambda-sensor/?710441865&1&2702058b617bd8dece9a6a4a63b5b0ee991556cd&000210 3) http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Corrado_2.9_1995/p/car-parts/car-body-parts-and-car-exhaust/exhausts/lambda-sensor/?710441995&1&29f61429b88b586410f6fb091fba17f5a5797a2e&000210 4)http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Corrado_2.9_1995/p/car-parts/car-body-parts-and-car-exhaust/exhausts/lambda-sensor/?710770365&1&d09be1a56038ecb8f0ec8a08722fccc3744d81bc&000210 If my Vin said wvwzzz50 z SK001125, Which do i need? I also notice some of the lengths are different. Not taken mine off yet, Also in the other infomation there is something about "part 4 spec wire extra install"? Confused and don't want the wrong one

Checked the yellow sensor last night and it is a new one i got from GSF, might try another. ABS system is the Teves20 upgrade so no connectors on the turrents, i took the front wheel sensors off and obviously not as new as i thought, were covered in bits of metal from the grinding/welding and a bit rusty and split so think i'll renew them as well. Have mucked about with the dashpot, i think if i adjust to keep the idle up when cold it'll be too high when warm. ISV has been off loads, cleaned and tested with the 12v power supply, seemed ok, (have also tried the spare), i renewed the damper box thing attached to the isv and checked and refitted all the pipes to it. Injectors have been refurbed as well. Going to try the new FPR, a new Lambda for now, then will test fuel pressure and renew the pump if needed (think these are the last few bits i've never changed, rest of the mechanical parts are new now :lol:

Mine is 1995 car so could i use the sender from that?

I did have a whirring/bearing noise coming from the fuel pump once, lasted a week or so and then went away, that was a few years back though so never thought any more of it.

About a week, although am sure he says 2-3days.

ABS light just stays on, enough if i clear the DTC's. Only driven about 100 meters and didn't really go that fast, maybe 15mph. Coolant temp sensors were replaced but i can't be sure how new the ones i put in were, i might just buy two new ones so i know they are new (unless i can test the ones i have) i must have a bag of about 2-3 of each. Am going to go with FPR and lambda for now to cure the running issues, i do have vcds but not sure where to go to check the readings from the lambda etc

-Won't idle from cold unless holding revs up for about 30secs (had this problem before all the work, so must be a sensor or something) -Dash coolant gauge still reads low -ABS light is on (VCDS say both front wheel sensors) -Aux water pump doesn't seem to run after engine is turned off, enough though the fans do

I used Mr Injector UK, he did a good job and i paid about £100 (i may of paid slightly more as i sent twelve injectors to be tested, got six refurbed back and then he posted the duff six back to me) He was hard to get hold of on the phone, i think being a one man band and working from home he probably doesn't have time to keep answering phone. I just posted mine off with a letter explaining what i wanted.

Only on the dry days :lol:

Just ordered the FPR, couldn't decide which lambda i need so will have to check chassis number etc

Well its now up and running (got a few issues but i'll get them sorted) Felt good to get it out the garage.

Can't remember where you got to with sourcing a fuel pump, but recall you having issues. Was looking at this on Eurocarparts, is it the correct one? Am thinking i might change mine. http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Corrado_2.9_1995/p/car-parts/engine-parts/fuel-and-engine-management/fuel-pump/?441440540&1&ffb189c809150f55ae77f9c33770e4d205de7bdc&000148

Lambda is something i've never changed since owning the car, so thats at least 9yrs and 100k, same for the Fuel pressure regulator. I have 3 coilpacks and am sure they are all ok. Got 2 MAFs, think they are the wire type. I did think it could be fuel pump related as thats never been changed either. I wonder if its not getting up to pressure or something, is that easy to test? Hoping to get it MOT'd this saturday, although sure it must be a faulty part as i remember spending ages mucking about with this before i stripped the car.

Weird. Still got this problem after a large rebuild. Nothing has come up in latest vcds scans. But only driven it about 100 metres so far. But had it up to temp till fans kicked in multiple times. -won't idle when cold unless holding revs up for 30secs ish. -coolant temp on dash still reads low. Fans kick in though. -fans run on after turning engine off if hot. But aux pump doesn't run. Runs with ignition on. Might buy a new isv. Could be my two are both dodgy. Although both worked when hooked up to a 12v supply. -might just buy brand new blue and yellow coolant sensors. Got loads and sure some were new but can't be sure which. Is there a way to test them? Is it worth changing rad temp sensor and maybe lambda?

Cheers for pics. I bought another corrado lid and it worked fine. Found my original lid this weekend. Car is running now so got round to checking the abs install. All seems good apart from abs light stays on. Did a scan with vcds and it says both front wheel sensors. The ones i fitted were corrado ones from gsf. Not sure what to check apart from wiring. Is the a way to test the sensors?

Use the rubber gasket. Victor reinz is a good make. Am sure I've had Victor reinz stuff from the dealer. Wouldn't use any sealant. Shouldn't need it. Can't remember the torque. Not much. Also two types of bolts. The later bolts are longer. I ended up buying a set of bolts as mine were mismatched.

Cheers people. Certainly a big moment for me. Got a few issues. Only started it the once so far. Brake lights were constantly on. Found the pedal not coming back far enough to hit the switch. Might be to do with the teves20 master cylinder swap. Temporarily extended the switch for now. Abs light is lit up. Maybe related to tge switch. Not too worried at the moment. May just need to drive it. Had a leak and convinced myself it was head gasket not sealed. I used arp studs and was mention on internet of not needing to retorque them. But i thought I'd do it anyway just to be sure. So been busy today. Think the coolant leak was actually from the hose joining to back of the head. When i took plugs out today (after running it yesterday) i thought i could see either petrol or oil in cylinder 1. That's partly why i retorqued the head. Was only a small amount of fluid as i sucked it out of cylinder. Not really sure what it was as was such a small amount. Starting it again tomorrow so will see what happens. Ran fine with no smoke from exhaust. But quite a bit from near exhaust manifold. Did cut out though when fans cut in. Dash gauge still reads low. Will try with vagcom tomorrow. At least i know it runs. Or did do.

Well it all went to plan. Everything worked and started first time after priming oil and fuel. Sounds great. Runs great. Just letting it cool off then going to look it over for any leaks etc

The cams aren't new. Have used them before. But new head and lifters. Using fuchs semi synthetic 10w40. Then switching to the vw syntha silver. Phoned vince at stealth and he said it world be alright. Quite hard to find mineral oil in the correct grade.

I could just send an assortment of my assortment.

You need two where the banjo joint meets the pump. I know that much. I've never undone the other end. I can send you a couple for that if you want. I bought the big assortment box and never going to use them all.

Whatabout the cooling pipe that sticks through the rad mount. Is that OK? Corroded or got squashed when changing engine?