Dutch24V

Why not just stick a CP ECU in and change the MAF to a film one? You can apparently disable the imob. with VAG-COM so wouldn't require the bits for that. They can't cost much srom a scrappy and this would be easier surely? ...or am I missing something? Dutch

...aux. water pump doesn't work at all now. Will it do any damage parking up, engine off, after a long motorway trip without the coolant being circulated and hence cooled properly? Can't replce it 'til the weekend and I need her for work this week :( Dutch

Sorry, after double-checking there are 5 wires connecting to the internal speed selector switch matching the colours you say above :oops: I have the Bentley book and have located all the wiring diagrams that apply to the 94 model year AAA engine. I know it's not a bible but I do see where the blower circuit connects to the aux. water pump one now, track 33 to track 22, into the radiator fan speed controller itself. Maybe that is the problem causing the fuse to blow and we know the water pump after-run circuit doesn't work too? I've ordered a new aux. water pump anyhow so will replace that at the weekend. I don't think it'll solve my electrical problems, but the bearings are shot so it needs replacing and you never know! If not guess I'm going to buy a new controller too and see f that fixes it, as it seems related to me? My alarm keeps randomly arming itself now too btw. Not sure if it's related but it does connect to the same earthing point as the blower motor? Dutch

Well, can't find anything after a weekend of searching and half the dash removed again. All electrics work except the reverse lights and bloody no. 6 fuse keeps blowing. I tried to unplug the aux. water pump but the bolts that hold the plastic cover in place have rounded off so can't get to the conector :x P&ssed off with it now so will leave it as is. I don't get the fan wiring at all though, as there are 4 wires that run from the speed selector switch to the fan conector, and 1 brown wire that runs from the fan conector to the car body, which is presuably negative. Where does the live come from?? Thanks for the help all, especially chris... DutchPieceOfSh$t

Well, I can't find the wires that are missing, at least not in the loom you mention with the other temp. sensor wiring. There is a conector down by the right-hand side head light that has two wires of the same colour you mention though? It looks like it's trapped under the battery so will see where it's run too another day now. I disconnected the wiring to the fan controller (the plastic clip with about 6-8 wires in, not the larger power wires though) and the fuse still blows instantly with a bright flash!? I'm beginning to think a wire is trapped and has gradually worn through and now shorting the circuit somehow. I presume it's in the wiring before the inside fan speed selector as the fuse still blows when the switch is disconected? Looks like I'll have to remove some more bits of dash over the weekend to investigate further :( ..also the reverse light switch on the gearbox is still connected, so maybe it's broken as my reverse lights still don't work either? Dutch

Nope, the car doesn't have air-con, but the engine isn't the original so may well have come from a car with air-con. So there should be at least 2 pins of the brown sensor connected for the 3rd speed? I will check around and see if I can find the missing connector. I'm also going to try and trace the wire behind the dash today so we can eliminate that, and I will disconnect the fan controller to test that too. I've just returned from VW and have 20 30-amp fuses to play with now :) I will report back my findings, thanks again... Dutch

...I've just had a thought 8) Maybe the aux. pump IS the problem here? I know the bearing is badly shagged as it makes a lot of noise. Maybe the resistance is causing the 20 amp. fuse to blow on the circuit connected to the inside blower fuse, but as it runs on a different circuit when the engine is running it works ok? ...but then the fuse should blow when I turn the ignition off, not on surely?? doh..., I don't know anymore, starting to do my head in now... Dutch

Hi Chris, thanks for the detailed reply again :notworthy: Let me try and clarify the situation a little: I have just tried the fuse with the motor disconnected AND the switch for the speed selector also disconnected and it still blows instantly. I have just looked at the thermostat housing and I find, from left to right, 1 dark coloured sensor with a 4 pins connected, the blue sensor with 2 pins connected and the brown sensor which has 4 pins but none are connected. My aux. water pump and radiator fans all work when the ignition is on (and engine running). When I turn the ignition off though the aux. pump stops, regardless of engine temp. If I turn the ignition on again the aux. pimp starts again. Due to the aux. pump not running when the ignition is off and the engine hot, the rad. fans pulse on and off due to the coolant not moving through the system. From what you've explained so far, I'm tending to think that the fan control unit is the suspect. This would explain why the aux. pump doesn't run when I turn the ignitioin off, and could explain why the fuse inside keeps blowing too. ...BUT, if it is at fault and causing the fuse to blow, how can the rest of the cooling system work properly when the car is running (including the aux. pump circuit)? Is the circuit for the aux. pump different depending on the ignition switch position? If so that would explain it!? :? It could also be that the wire from the fuse box to the fan speed selector inside the car is shorting somwhere, and the fact that my aux. pump doesn't work when the ignition is off is totally unrelated? From the description above is it worth just whacking in a new control unit (at some cost) and hoping? I'm going to trace the wire from the fan speed selector to the fuse box tomorrow too, but don't see that even if I do find a short how this could effect the aux. pump over run circuit? Dutch

Yep, will try and do that over the coming weekend. ...but if the fuse also runs the fan control module and 3rd speed fan switch I'm thinking the problem probably lies there as my aux. pump over run doesn't work either - which is controlled by the control module if I understand RW1 correctly? Dutch

I don't mind doing some fault finding, but I need to know what I should be testing before I can fault find. :? I don't think RW1 is referencing the Bentley on this though as he stated the Bentley wiring for the fan after run etc. is wrong as it only relates to Yank cars (see http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32792) Dutch

Hmmm, maybe RW1 will shed some light on the issue when he's next online? Can somebody PM me details about getting a copy of ELSA then please? Dutch

Err, according to RW1: ...and: Now I'm even more confused? Dutch

Cheers Kev, think we've isolated the problem to one of 2 things then. It could be a coincidence of course but looks like my fan controller or the 3rd speed switch in the thermostat is shagged and this is what keeps blowing my fuse. ...BUT, I remember when we met up a few weekends back you said I did not have the 3rd speed switch, or it was different as the temp. sensor wasn't connected and it had 4 pins instead of 2? Do you remember, you also mentioned at the time that I could run factory fit air co. as I had a 4 pin black temp. sender? I'm confused now... Dutch

RW1, Many thanks, I think you're onto something. :) I didn't know the fan controller runs off fuse 6 too. I wondered why it was a 30 amp fuse for such a little motor!? Anyhow, taken from another thread, my other ongoing issues are related to the cooling system, inparticular the aux pump. after run: "My Aux. pumps bearing is shagged so it makes alot of noise when it's running, but when I turn the ignition off when the engine is hot, the aux. pump stops and the cooling fans run for only 30 seconds or so, then stop for a minute or 2, then restart for 30 seconds again and so on? Any ideas anyone? Relay 14 maybe??" Having read your above post I'm fairly sure I have a problem with the fan control unit and/or the third stage fan switch. I had a quick check this morning though and the clearly visible fuses look ok and the cooling system works still with the engine running, but when I turn the ignition off, the aux. pump dies, regardless of engine temp.? Is this Black/Yellow wire that triggers the 3rd fan speed also involved in the aux. pump after run circuit btw? Can you confirm that the aux. pump should run WHENEVER I switch the engine off, hot or cold? Dutch

White2505, thanks for the info. regarding the reverse lights. I will have a look at the switch etc. to see if I can find anything odd. With regards to the blower motor, it's all new, including the thermo pack. Also, the fuse still blows if the fan is disconnected. You're right in that it could just be a coincidence that the reverse lights have stopped working at around the same time as the fuse started to blow. The fuse didn't blow straight after I replaced the heater matrix either. It lasted for a week, then started blowing every other day, until now when it blows the instant the ignition is switched on (with the motor disconnected too) Dutch

Not sure where to post this but... I've been investigating why the fuse for my blower motor keeps blowing and have found that both my reverse lights aren't working either. Both bulbs and the fuse are ok (I tested the bulbs and fuse elsewhere) but they just don't light up? What side of the car do the wires for the reverse lights run? When we did the heater matrix and the dash was out we tidied up some wiring up that sits down by the blower motor (LHD car rememer so on the right side). I'm wondering if somehow we've shorted a wire from the reverse lights to a wire from the blower motor, but for some reason the fuse or bulbs haven't blown for the reverse lights (and the fuse for the reverse lights is 15 amps, where as the blower motor is 30)??? I can't figure it out and there doesn't appear to be anything else wired into the blower motor wiring to cause the fuse to keep blowing, even when the motor itself is diconnected? Any help/ideas greatly appreciated as short from ripping the whole f*cking dash out again I'm stumped. Dutch

Out of interest, was the Campaign UK only too? What market was the Jet for? Dutch

When you mention Corrado VR6 Storm to anyone non English they're like "What?" I think it makes it less desirable that it's a UK only limited edition and the fact that it's not actually marked or numbered say's it all. If the market were world wide for 500 limited editions they'd be worth ALOT more than they currently are. ..and a car is to be driven, not molly codeld or however you spell it Dutch

I lived in Manly for a while and still have several mates living there. Used to catch the ferry from circular quay to the cbd every morning - a fine way to commute to work! I also remember renting a car in Manly from a place called 'Rent a ruffy' - and then getting totally lost in the city centre for 6 hours. Anyhow, goodluck mate and I may well be in touch next year. I would so love to take my C with me too. How would that be, 2 C's in Manly!! Dutch

It feels strange and somehow empty!! ...but hang on, I forgot, my steering still needs sorting as it's getting very vague. Ahhh, thank god, I still something to worry about 8) Well, there's nothing wrong with my alarm after all and I still have the electrical gremlin blowing my blower motor fuse. The only thing I can think of on this one is the switch itself. I'm also going to have a play with the fan control module too as I want my aux. wtaer pump on when I turn the ign. off!! Another C filled weekend me thinks.... Dutch

I also had an American 2.8 C, with electric seat belts, cruise control and factory fitted air co. - and the 4*4 standard yank suspension! Exactly as joebloggsVR69 says - the VR6 C was launched as their flagship performance car at the time so hence it was bored to 2.9. A bit of a marketing ploy though as most of the extra power from the 2.9 comes from the larger manifold/tb plus different cams and ECU mappings AFAIK. Dutch

There's an R36 coming next year which might be a bit better. An R36 Corrado? hmmm, someones got to do it!! Dutch

DelMonty, likewise mate, but this is my last niggling problem so will feel empty when I do finally fix it! :) I hope you get to the bottom of your issue soon, but as you've already replaced the controller I'm not sure what's left to suggest. Is you dash showing the correct water temp.? Well, it looks as if the controller could be shot then in my case as the temp gauge is working correctly and the aux. pump works fine as it comes on when the ignition 's on. My car is with an auto electrician today as my alarm is acting strange and the bloody fuse for the inside blower keeps blowing. Maybe something crops up in his checks... Dutch

Are your wheels 4 or 5 stud btw? ...nothing to do with your problem, just trying to figure how well it was converted. Dutch

Doesn't relay 14 sit on the relay panel just above the fuse box itself? My Aux. pumps bearing is shagged so it makes alot of noise when it's running, but when I turn the ignition off when the engine is hot, the aux. pump stops and the cooling fans run for only 30 seconds or so, then stop for a minute or 2, then restart for 30 seconds again and so on? Any ideas anyone? Relay 14 maybe?? Sorry to jump in on your thread DelMonty but as it's realeted thought I'd ask here :wink: Dutch