Dutch24V

Well the t-piece has just arrived. Damn good delivery service as I only ordered it at 16:00 yesterday. Not sure if it's ok though as when I screw one switch into the side hole it blocks the inside hole that allows the oil up to the top switch :? Is this normal? Dutch

Excellent work there guys. Very much appreciated. :thumb right: So hopefully after the weekend the annoying beeping will be gone :) Dutch

I'm fiting the Corrado pressure senders as I'm using the Corrado Clocks. Not sure what the numbers are and I don't have them to hand at the mo. unfortunately. Dutch

Excelent, thanks alot guys. Just spoken to demon tweaks. 30 quid with 24h delivery to my house in Holland for a 10*1 brass t-piece. Hope it's the right size - he said it's what most earlier vw's used? Dutch

Sorry guys, just re-read and now I get what your getting at (i'm having an off day today :) ) Sounds like a good idea. Any idea where I can get such a t-piece though? Dutch

hmmm, i'm getting confused now. Why would vw make 2 different senders if they are infact the same? I thought they warned of low and high presure regardless of engine speed, hence requiring 2 different senders? I'm no expert though so could be wrong :? Goldie: Not sure, but the 12v oil filter housing is different to the 24v one. The 12v oil cooler fits directly onto the block, but the 24v oil cooler fits onto the oil filter housing itself. Dutch

They are not actually the same switch. One is for low pressure (0-0.25) bar and the other for high (1-1.4) bar (or something like that). They are referred to as the blue and black oil pressure switches. If you look on ETKA they are two different parts. I have just ordered the high pressure switch but still need to mount it some how :) Dutch

Yes, but I need to add and additional switch though, not split the output of an existing one. I have the low oil presure switch already on, but need to fit the high oil pressure switch too. They are 2 different switchs so I cannot simply t-off the low presure one unfortunately. Dutch

I have an issue with the high oil pressure warning beep/lamp. The 24v oil filter housing only has one hole on the top of it, to which I have fitted the low oil pressure switch. I need to mount the high oil pressure switch so I'm thinking of drilling and threading a suitably sized hole in to the flat part on the top of the 24v housing and mounting it here. Will this be possible? I've not done this sort of thing since school so am unsure how successful threading a cast lump of metal will be? (Not sure if it's aluminum either?) If this can be done then I think it's a good solution to my problem, unless anyone has a better idea of course? Cheers, Dutch

I still can't believe your selling mate. From what I can tell so far the 24v is just perfect for the C, and the sound is fantastic! Easily modded up to 250 bhp n/a in a car that weighs I know it's time to move on and all that but to what may I ask? (PM if you like, I'll keep it quiet!) Dutch

Thanks mate. Has your 24v left the building yet so-to-speak? Dutch

I have a problem with the high oil pressure warning light/beep. As the 12v oil cooler doesn

I have been speaking to Custom Code UK and they can remove the need for the mkiv abs module with their rechip :) I'm going to get my ecu flashed with Custom Code phase 1 (204 -> 225 hp) and have the need for 2 after-cat lambda's removed so I can physically ditch them. I'm also considering having the immobilizer Code removed too while I'm at it. However, if I remove the immobilizer code from the ECU, will I still need the mkiv clocks backing plate, key and key fob?? ASFAIK they are only needed due to the immob. anyhow, but I'm not 100% sure?? Dutch

It would seem others are having simular issues: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3337670 Guess chipping it or swapping the mkiv abs module in seem the only options. I've not had mine over 50 degrees yet so not sure if this will affact me too. Planning on driving her for a distance over the coming weekend so guess I'll find out then... Dutch

Oh yes, I completely forgot about that little incident you had with the frog filth :) Dutch

After a successful weekend she is now purring like a baby :) I missed a large vacuum hole at the back of the manifold that looked like it had been blocked off but hadn't. It almost sucked my finger off when I found it. Once I blocked that off she ran a lot smoother so I ran her up to temp, stopped and then restarted and she fired back up again on all cylinders :) I think I had a sticking valve or 2 in the end too. I still need to sort out VAG-COM, but other than that and mounting a few things and sorting the brake/clutch switches out she's almost ready to drive for the first time. Can't wait :) Thanks for the offer Will, but I'm OK on the parts front at the moment. How come you

Cheers guys. Feeling good at the moment :) Yes the rad is made in the UK, and very high quality too, which is as you say rare these days. I have no internet connection at home at the mo btw. (b&stard provider), but can hopefully post more updates next week when back at work. Have good weekend... Dutch

Finally got the balls to try and start her last night and to my amazement she fired up first time!! :D There are still problems though as she's only running on 4-5 cylinders by the sounds of it and VAG-COM doesn't work (the light on the ross-tech connecting wire glows red?). I really need to get the diagnostics working though so I can finish her off and set up the DBW throttle etc. Coxylaaaad, have you managed to dig out those wiring diagrams yet mate? Bigpants, do you happen to have them still? If so can you PM them this way please? I'm getting all excited about her again :) I was losing interest tbh. as it's been 14 months or so since I started and I couldn't finish her in the 3 months I planned due to work, weather, gf & house commitments etc. etc. Hopefully not long

The breather is for the crankcase so yes there will be alot of oil. That is why the diaphram is there, to stop large particals and large quantities of oil escaping into the intake system afaik. Dutch

Hi mate, In my experience the only way you'll shift a VR lump from the car safely is with a hoist mate. You don't want to risk dropping it and it's very hard to lift with 2 people due to all the bits sticking out. It *can* be done with 2 jack, but I wouldn't risk it. I hired a hiost over here for something like 20 quid a day so must be possible in the UK too? It weighs around 180 kgs btw!! Dutch

My '94 VR doesn't have a sunroof. Dutch

Good point, but guess it's no different to any pre-obd2 car. I will know there's a problem when it stops working or drives badly, then just plug in vag-com :) Dutch

Engine management light? Have you fitted the mkiv clocks then? I'm using the C clocks so no annoying light :) Dutch

Mine doesn't rev full stop at the moment :) I think this maybe only for the r32 engine, not the 2.8 24v. I've heard it can be removed on various vortex threads too, but not sure by whom in the UK. Best bet would be Custom Code I'd imagine. Dutch

Sounds like your MAF tbh. It won't throw any error codes and gives the exact same problems you're experiencing. I had the same last year and after replacing all but the MAF, I bit the bullet and problem solved. Dutch