pbradley98

Managed to get this all sorted at the weekend and thought I'd post the results just for anyone who's interested! With original wiring got the following voltages: Battery (engine NOT running): 12.6V Dipped beam: 10.2V (i.e. a 2.4V drop!) Full beam: 8.85V (i.e. a 3.75V drop!) With Zak's 3 relay loom fitted this changed to the following (note that the battery voltage was worse to start with when I took these ones....) Battery (engine NOT running): 11.85V Dipped beam: 11.73V (i.e. only 0.12V drop!) Full beam: 11.35V (i.e. only 0.5Vdrop!) Yet to try driving at night since I fitted the loom (or even voltages with the engine running, as didn't think the neighbours would appreciate me sat outside with the engine running for 10 - 15 mins!), but I'm thinking it's going to be a much more visible experience! Ended up fitting the relays and the fuses to the side of the battery between the front of the battery and the back of the nearside headlight, as I thought this seemed the most logical place to keep it out of the way and probably best protected from rain etc...... velcro's great! Cheers Phil

Hi Zak, Gave it a go this evening and the results were much more what I was expecting (assuming I managed to get the meter on the right connections on the back of the bulb connections!) - with the engine off the battery voltage was 12.5V, the dipped beam voltage with the lights on and bulbs connected 10.3V and with full beam this dropped to 8.9V! Will try fitting the loom at the weekend...... Cheers Phil

Hi Zak, Thanks for that - I'll try to give that a go and see what happens! Cheers Phil

Hi, Quick general question about the voltage at the connector that goes onto the back of the headlight - thought I'd see what the voltage difference was before / after changing the loom and was kind of surprised when I found that before doing anything the voltage for the dipped and full beam were both 11.8V / 11.9V when the engine was not running - the battery voltage was only 12.0V. Wasn't expecting that at all and wondering if the loom will actually improve this, as it seems pretty high voltage to start with (think that have seen other posts talking of voltages sub 11V) - am I missing something here though? I.e. is it the current that is improved by the direct feed from the battery rather than the voltage increase (been a while since I did anything vaguely resembling calculations on electricity!) or am I not going to gain that much from adding a new loom? Can't see that any of the previous owners have made any mods to the lights - all the connectors onto the lights are OE, the resistor for the dim dip is still wired in etc.... Any thoughts appreciated as I'm now confused! Did VW fix this issue on the later Corrados (Mine is an Aug 1994 model)? Cheers Phil

Hi Zak, Thanks for the loom - missed the post on Monday but arrived now! Looks good and can't wait to fit it to improve night visibility! Cheers Phil

Yep - that would be great, pm payment details and I'll send the cash across..... Cheers....

Hi - if I'm not too late for this batch, could I get a 3 relay for a 94 VR? Let me know payment details.... Cheers Phil

Cool - I'll have to give that a try! Cheers....

How do you use it?

Winter wiper position???

Hi! I have the light behind the heater dial blackout - now excuse me for only knowing how to bake cakes, liking fluffy bunnies and wanting a new pair of shoes every week, but what bulbs would I replace the duff ones with.......?!!! I am newbie, I want to learn. I need to learn, I like to learn.:clap: I now have recent experience on this! The VW dealer couldn't find the bulb on the corrado, but gave me once from another VW model, however this blew after about 1/2 hour! :bad-words: So then went to Halfords and got two more - a 1.2W and a 2.3W, fitted the 2.3W bulb and has been running fine since - the halfords bulb numbers are 284 for the 2.3W and 286 for the 1.2W... plus as Jim said, was very easy to change - just ease off the centre control and the bulb sits in just behind it!

thanks......

Are there any of these left? I'd be interested in 4 if there are... Cheers Phil

Thanks for the info Jim - that'll give me something to do (break) at the weekend! Cheers

Hi, just had a few random questions that I'm curious about as to whether they're well known Corrado "features" :D as follows! Headlights - if you flash the lights when the lights are off, when you turn them on they come on with full beam! Windows - you can only ever put one window up or down at a time and if you try to do both at once they both stop completely! Heater dials - don't have any illumination so they're impossible to see at night (although guessing this could be a bulb that's gone and if so anyone know if it's easy to replace, as I hear complete heater matrix controls are expensive to replace!) Any thoughts (or observations of other random design features) welcome! Cheers Phil

Hopefully now fixed after a couple of hours back at the garage! Had to chop an inch off the end of the exhaust where it connects to the back of the CAT to move the whole system forward so that the mounts were hanging straight down and there was much more clearance over the rear axle, which seems to have resolved the "booming" noise when accelerating and the rattling in general!

Thanks guys, the system has the standard CAT in still. Think have found the issue - the system looks to be vibrating on something on the underside of the car.... the whole exhaust is sitting too far back, so rather than hanging straight down, the rubbers are at an angle that holds the whole exhaust too high.... think it's going to need a refit so back to the garage for me! PS - Craigowl there are somethings that shouldn't be confessed to!

Hi Alan, Few quick questions about your rebuild - looking at your receipt I couldn't see new pistons, just new rings? Did the rebuild include a rebore and fitting oversize rings to the existing pistons? Also where abouts did you get this done? The rings on my VR are starting to go on Cyl 6 (telltale oil on the sparkplug) so I'm starting to weigh up options for what I do with the engine and from the sounds of things am in a very similar situation to what you were, as have carried out a lot of other work over the years that make me want a rebuild rather than risking it all again with buying another VR6.... Cheers Phil

Hi - due to the original exhaust finally giving up (after just 16 years and 140k!!), I've recently had a Jetex 3 box system fitted to my VR6, which for the majority of the time is superb as I was after something as close to OE as possible but without the ridiculous £700+ price tag I was quoted for an original VAG CAT back system...... However, between around 1900 - 2500 rpm when you accelerate there seems to be a really resonant 'boomy' sound which doesn't sound pleasant and is a bit of a pain if going along in traffic around 50 - 60mph when you're generally somewhere in this rev range. Does anyone else have any experience of this with the 3 box Jetex? Would appreciate hearing from anyone else who's got the Jetex system and whether they have similar noise issues (or if they have got the Jetex but don't have any issues with the noise like I have). Cheers Phil

Thanks Jim - if only stealth was my local! Cheers Phil

Hi, Does anyone have any experience of Jabba Sport in Peterborough for normal servicing stuff on a standard VR6? I know that they're a forced induction specialist, but thought that they mught cover normally aspirated VAG stuff too.... I'd normally go to Stealth, but can only get there at weekends so need somewhere a bit more local for a check over (seem to be going through more oil than normal!) before a track day at the end of the month and these guys are just round the corner.... Any experiences appreciated! Thanks Phil

Thanks for pointing out what this is - my temp sensor just seems to have dropped off my MFA after the radiator was replaced, so given it looks like it's right next to the radiator was probably knocked loose whilst fitting! Cheers Phil

matthewb1985, Like the design - any chance you could put together a version with space for actually writing stuff on too for each date? Kind of a combination of your design and the format that Stan 24v has got? I guess it depends if people want a calendar just to put on the wall or to use for writing dates in etc. Look forward to getting one whichever the result! Cheers Phil

Hi Andy, Great work - please could you put me down for an 4+4 one when ready.... Thanks Phil

I had this a few months back too - although the engine didn't cut out...but the 15A fuse blew every time the rear spoiler went up or down. I operated the rear spoiler manually a few times (take the trim off the boot and there's a manual handle you can use to wind it up and down) then tried it with a 20A fuse and it worked fine, so then reverted to the 15A fuse and haven't had any further problems (touch wood!), so in my case think it might have been the spoiler motor getting jammed on something and tripping the fuse... worth a try! Afraid there's no real science behind this so the fix could be pure coincidence! Good luck!