timmaaah

Did electrical retail for 16 odd years - then spent a few in the construction industry. Got made redundant in Dec 2009 - been in and out of hospital most of this year, although my last operation (hopefully) was a month ago. We had our first kiddie in Feb this year, so the missus is going back to work (she earns a fair amount more than I do/did), and I'm going to be a stay at home dad. Get in :D

I've just had a look at mine - the rear disappears into the carpet/behind the rear side cards. I can take a picture of the front bit, but the bit at the rear will not be visible - don't know if that will be of any use to you?

Sorry Cazza - that's what I meant :oops: - if you ask for the pcv for the 'rado, VW will only quote you for the whole piece inc pipework :shock: . If you ask for: V7M0 128 101 you can get just the valve part. Price £29.57 inc 10% discount, but they had to order it in. Ford's were a bit reluctant to give me the bit without a registration number, and they are more expensive anyway!!

Learn something new one less part to worry about :) Thanks for the tip will see how much ford charge for this Part compared to VW[/quote:311a3don] I recently (month ago) had to change mine - it was cheaper from VW than from Ford. I've got the part no for VW somewhere, if you need it. IIRC if you ask for the bit from VW for the Corrado, they'll supply all the hose bits as well - there was a post on here somewhere that had the part no. for just this valvey bit. I can look at the receipt if you need the part no. They did have to order it from Germany for me though!

Just get one from a scrappy - you'll probably get it for pence - the old one will just push out - push the new one in - job done. Get one from almost any vag car circa 1990-2000 (take the old one to check the size/plugs) That's what I did.

Anyone :shrug:

'kay - ta. I'll tell him to scrap them in that case. Cheers!

Next door neighbour has four of these one has a dent One has some bubbling. Are they worth owt? 15"

Lovely - cheers guys! :)

Just noticed my deadlocks are no longer working. The cl no longer makes the second whirr noise 10 odd seconds after I lock the door. I recently had the drivers handle out, but connected everything back up. Anyone got any pointers? Thanks

Can anyone spare me 5 minutes? Please? :) :)

Oh - by the way - the diodes that I removed change colour depending on the voltage supplied to them. What are these called?

Right - this can be done and it's very simple. Point of note - you do not need to remove the pcb from the grey plastic housing. If you do, there is a good chance you will screw the whole thing up, so don't! Using a fine pointed soldering iron - desolder all three of those little white jobbies. They are soldered on at the tops and bottoms as you look at my picture. You will then need 3 x 3mm 12v standard led (of your colour choice) (for red, I suggest CJ66W from Maplin - you want the HE version, not the SB version unless you want the switches really bright!! Solder straight on - no resistors needed) Solder in the new leds - see this pic for polarities. (I would recommend just tacking in place with the legs full length first and then plugging in just to double check. Once you're sure, then you can trim and solder in the correct place 8) ) Replace lid - reconnect and test. :)

Would somebody be kind enough to take a picture of their starter motor for me, specifically of the wiring going to it Mines been out for a while, and I can't remember what wires where connected where (I know the where the cable from the battery goes, and the multi pin plus, but there's another wire nearby, plus there appears to be a spade type terminal on the end of the solenoid - can't remember if anything was connected to that) - it's a '94 vr. Thanks in advance Tim

Still got this problem, although it seems to be intermittent. Car battery fubard, so connected at the moment to a charger. Yesterday, the indicator lights flashed - this morning they did too, but now they don't. Checked the outputs from the rear of the alarm, and no power out to indicators. The unit 'clicks' twice when arming and once when disarming. Any ideas peeps?

Excellent - thankyou :clap: :salute:

OK - cheers, Going for a clutch change soon then I guess :(

Here's a pic of the internals of my late sunroof switch. The leds are ringed. Has anyone successfully changed the colour on these, and if so, can you point me in the direction of a guide and/or let me know the voltages needed? Thanks in advance!

I've looked and looked and looked and can't seem to find a definitive answer. Are the leds in the late mirror control unit 2volt or 12volt? Half the stuff I've read says one thing and the other half says otherwise :cuckoo: :cuckoo: I've read through the ccc guide, and there's two voltages mentioned in there, and the guide on here also refers to two different voltages (2/3v or 12v!) Looking at the insides of the switch, it would appear that the leds are wired in parallel, and a multimeter across the terminals reads 12(ish) volts, so I assume they should be 12volt. Please can someone give me a definitive answer....please :)

Update - slightly removed the slave cylinder so I could see the arm inside. When my wife pressed the clutch down, the arm extends and retracts fully. Any ideas? Tim

If I start the car in gear, I can feel the clutch dragging, and there's 1 millimetre of movement before the clutch fully engages. If I take of the cylinder and strip it, will it be very apparent if a seal has gone? If a seal has gone, I take it that there is some fluid not being fully squashed, as it's going around the seals? How does the master come off? Does it just unbolt from the bulkhead in the engine bay and the pedal kind of comes through or something? Not stripped clutch cylinders before but I'm sure it can't be hard :shock: :) Thanks in advance Tim

As per title - the clutch was starting to slip when the car was taken off the. For the last couple of days I've been able to select a gear, but today the pedal went down to the floor and was really sluggish in coming back up. When fully depressed, I cannot select any gear. I've checked the cylinders and there are no leaks from either of them (the one near the brake fluid container and the one on top of the gear box) - I also took the slave cylinder off, and got the missus to press the clutch - the nobby bit that comes out the end and goes in the gear box comes out, and I can't stop it. There also *seems* to be a rhythmic ticking noise coming from the gear box. Any ideas? Ta

FYI - I have just purchased, from ebay, a replacement rubber for the aerial base. The fit is fantastic. It's been tested with a garden hose and there are 100% no leaks. The cost was £4.50 delivered and arrived the next day. Here is a pic of it fitted (excuse the dirt). Ebay no 360264497516 from this seller http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/car-masts-uk/. Hope this helps if your rubber, like mine was, is all perished and crap looking! TImmaaah

Could do with answers to first and last questions please :D That wire was a bodge for the lambda connector - a wire had come out of the multi pin plug - now fixed (I hope!) New coilpack and HT leads fitted. Plugs weren't oily, but quite sooty, but she was overfuelling before I took her off the road - hopefully with all these leaks/splits sorted, she should run a bit better!

Managed to get the teeny tiny most inaccessible screw that hold the ignition switchy thing out in about 10 minutes, with only one bent screwdriver :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: I thought it was going to take a lot longer than that!! Stripped and cleaned isv and throttle body - took inlet mani off and smoothed and started polishing. Stripped rear brakes ready for rebuild when I get some grease for the sliding pins. Tried new car seat for 't babby and checked the buggy goes in ok. Took headlight and surrounds out to clean. Need to free off the rear brake bias valve - not looking forward to that :( . Took some pics to post in engine bay and posted some questions. Ordered a coilpack/ht leads/ignition switch and pcv. That's about it today!