timmaaah

How easy/difficult was the install mate? Looks fun! Where do you get the bottle filled and how much does it cost? I'm still toying with the idea for my vr!

Such sad news - rip Chris :(

I've just got mine out (fnarr fnarr) and mine has the same dims as leon263. There also seems to be a part number under the word Votex: 000 093 055 D Mine's a 94 vr Found another part no on the triangle itself (and repeated on the box) 27 R 0323627 The date of manufacture is Oct 1993

Cheers all :)

I've just changed the spark plugs on the vr - the old ones have been in there a while :oops: I've used NKG BKR5E single electrode as recommended on here - there is certainly a difference - better revving/idling etc, but the old plugs were ancient! Here's the old plugs - does everything look ok (apart from the crap on the threads)? Cyl 1 on the left, then 2,3,4,5,6 Cyl 6 on the left, then 5,4,3,2,1 All looking ok? Cheers :)

Sorry - been away for a week and only just saw your post - the car was registered in the UK 01/10/2001, so the first owner had it for 7 years, the first UK owner had it for 4 years (he had a newborn and his missus didn't think that a Corrado would be a suitable car ^_^) and I've owned it since 06/2005. :)

Hey all - I'm chasing an aerial problem. I have wired in a switched 12v supply to supply my phone and dash cam. If I plug them in, I get a lot of static/interference on FM. I've had a look at the aerial cable, and even replaced the lead from the amplifier bit back to the aerial on the roof, but I'm still getting problems. I also get interference without the extra bits plugged in, and moving the aerial about will cause the reception to get better and worse. Are there any multimeter readings I can check? There's a good earth checked from the outer braid and a metal part of the car, and no continuity between the inner and outer cables, or inner cable and metal car part. Any ideas? It's doing my head in! It's the original base with an aftermarket shorter sticky up bit.

Ah, ok, many thanks. Out of interest what was/is it for? My car originally came from Guernsey. It was connected to the old starter motor,but obviously is now not connected. Cheers :)

Hi - I've just swapped the starter motor with a new one from Euro Care Parts, and the new one seems to be missing a spade connector. The wire is yellow with a black trace. It works, and turns the engine over fine, but does anyone know what this wire is for? See attached pic. Many thanks

FWIW I tried a cheapy £30 ebay special - it is utter crap - so bad I got a full refund. I'm looking at the DOD F520. Seems to be good and about £120 ish. The footage on youtube using it looks pretty good. Just being nosey, but what was the report about and what did the police say or do? :)

Sorted - the voltage drop on the glovebox light is minimal during cranking, so I've taken a feed from that :) - not sure why it didn't work before :/

Yeah - I'm a lazy sod!! I really want the satnav to turn on and off by itself (it's such a pain to do it manually :D) The fag lighter on mine is permanently live - is that normal? Cheers Si - I'll get my multimeter out and have a play - thanks :)

Yes - it has a battery, but it auto turns on and off with the power supply, but because there's that dip, it turns off when I start the car, meaning I have to manually turn it back on :/

I need an ignition switched power supply, but one that doesn't then briefly turn off when the engine is cranked. The glovebox light feed seems to flick off when the engine cranks, as does the power supply to the radio. Any idea as to where I can get a stable, ignition switched live feed from? One that specifically doesn't dip/flick off when the car starts? I want to hard wire in my satnav, but it turns off when the car is started - it goes like this: Ignition on - satnav turns on - start car (power supply dips) satnav turns off :/ Many thanks :)

Mine turned up and I fitted it today. Wow - what an improvement! The shifting is so much nicer and quicker. The gear selection is much less vague too - really helping with gear selection! The quality is fantastic - really well done! It's really easy to fit following the clear instructions that come with the shifter. The shifter was really well packaged too, and Dave is a great guy to deal with. Get one of these in your life - such an improvement for so little outlay - may thanks Dave :) Timmaaah

Don't do it - it will look utterly **** and everyone will think you are a penis. As for wiring up/using fog lights as DRL :nono: :rolleyes:

Ok - quick update - the ONLY way to replace these cables is to remove the shift mech box from underneath the car. I took the cat out and dropped the front heat shield. I also undid the two fastenings on the rear heatshield which gave me enough space to drop the shift box out. The shift box in held in place with four bolts that are accessed by removing the exhaust/cat. If you have a pit or a lift then this job is easy - if, like me, you only have ramps, prepare for cursing, pain and loads of crap going in your eyes. Thanks for all the help and pointers :)

Oh cat bottoms. Does that mean I have to squirm around under the car once it's up on ramps? Is it quite straightforward once the exhaust is out of the way? Dave, thanks for the kind offer regarding the cables. Are the short shifters still available? If so, do you have any ready? Seeing as the shifter is already out of the car, I may as well do this mod too!

Cheers for the reply - I'm at this stage in the cabin - what next? Sorry to sound silly, but the cable seems to still be held firmly in place! Sorry for the big pic - forum wouldn't let me thumbnail :/

Aaargh - I was having some gear selector probs recently (here) and I thought I'd sorted it, but I started to get more and more problems. Today, the cable itself has snapped, right near the gearbox. It's the cable that goes back and forth (shift cable?) not the one that makes it go up and down (tower/selector cable?). I'm not sure how it all comes apart or how it's replaced. I have got the metal plate out that is close to the gearbox, so the cable is loose. The cable then disappears into some heat shielding. I've also taken the gear selector apart/out from the cabin, but the cable remains in place. I haven't a clue what to do next. Please, can anyone help me/describe what I need to do next - many thanks! Edit - picture added [ATTACH=CONFIG]72139[/ATTACH]

Many thanks - it was a loose linkage (the one with the weight on it) - using David's guide it was an easy fix! Cheers again :)

My 94 VR has started to get a bit iffy between gear changes - especially when changing gear under hard acceleration - sometimes the knob goes all stiff (ooeerr) and you have to wrestle it in and out of gear. I have changed the gearbox mount, but haven't done the engine mounts yet. Today I couldn't get the car to go into third or fifth gear - when you lift the clutch it just grinds like it hasn't fully gone into gear. If you ram it into gear, it will go, but that isn't right. I got my missus to try putting it in third - if I give the selectory thingy (technical term) at the gearbox end an extra shove, it goes in ok. I can't see any adjuster to shorten the cable in the engine bay. I had a look under the gearbox knob, but I have no idea how all that works :/ Please help!!

I was driving back home yesterday. I live in a fairly rural area and as such the roads are never treated. I have great fun in throwing the car around and the snow and ice, generally having a whale of a time. I slowed up as there was a guy walking on the road - I went past nice and slow and gave him plenty of room. I thanked him for moving over and continued on my way. I waited until I was a reasonable distance away from him, then continued to 'play' in the snow. I was only a few hundred meters from home, so pulled in the driveway. I got out, and walked round to see my neighbour - just to check he was ok in the cold weather. A few minutes later, the guy walking on the road came past us. My neighbour and I both said good afternoon. We exchanged a few pleasantries, and discussed the weather. Just as he was about to go, he asked 'Was that your VW? It sounds bloody gorgeous!' Nice :)

Just a quick update - de-tensioned and removed the belt - the water pump, power steering and alt pulleys are smooth - the tensioner one wasn't! I striped it down and found the grease in the race had long since hardened and evaporated. I repacked it with grease - reassembled and hey presto - no more tortured mice!! Thanks for all the guidance/help :)

ok - thanks guys. How easy is it to remove the belt? Is there an idiots guide anywhere? I thought it was belt/pulley related too, but it is the non-change in pitch with different engine speeds that strikes me as odd! Many thanks once again.