timmaaah

Are these still available?

Stripping down the old girl ready for getting her back on the road. I've cleaned the isv - it wouldn't move at all when I started - now it's nice and free. Can someone confirm that the flap rests past the fully closed position as per. There is a small opening to the left. The flap then goes across to the left, first fully closing and then fully opening! Can someone tell me what the extra wire is for? I think it's the lambda connections, but could be wrong. It's underneath the throttle body side, and towards the rear of the engine bay. I've also stripped off the inlet mani - can someone tell me if there is a problem - there is oil fouling on three of the inlets . My pcv valve is buggered (new one on order) - it's split and doesn't seal properly. I've cleared of loads of gunk from the throttle body and I take it it's just some oil that's found it's way across to the inlets? FYI - the pcv valve is still available on it's own, but I've had to get VW to order one from Germany. Price £27.96 + vat. Ford can get the bit (also out of stock) but it's £34.41 + vat. Sorry for all the questions, but I really want to get the old girl running properly again! Coilpack's furbar too, plus the ht leads are looking decidedly 2nd hand. Took all the plugs out and they all look fine - no oil fouling at all :D . Money money money :shock: :shock:

Yeah - smallish steam cleaner for domestic use. Cheers!

A question regarding steam cleaning. I have a Polti domestic steam cleaner - can I safely use this to clean the engine bay, and are there any pointers/pitfalls I should know about? Things not to steam, etc! Thanks /not sure if this is engine bay or cleaning/

Yeah - I found that, but that's for new bits, isn't it? I'm thinking second hand from a breakers, so would like to know what model Passat I'm looking for! Ta though!

Thinking about upgrading the front brakes - as the car is currently sorned, I'm thinking of second hand and refurb. I'm aware that I need the calliper, carrier and discs from a late (95-98) MK3 VR6 golf (others?) or a Passat, but which model Passat is it? I've had a search, but can't seem to find that info. Am I also correct in saying the Golf callipers will need a different hose, as it comes with a screw type, but the Passat ones do not need a new hose, as it's a banjo type, same as the 'Rado? Thanks in advance! Tim

Have you washed the car since you got it back? AFAIK holograming is caused by washing and getting tiny particles of grit trapped in your sponge/washmit/whatever, then being rubbed over the paint. If you haven't washed it since, I'd be taking it back - there's no way you should have holograms in fresh paint. Someone with more knowledge than me will be along :D

Refurbishing the heat control bowden cable - easy to get off, but just you wait til you try and get it back on to the control arm in the duct box - buried so you can't see it, cramped so you can't reach it and made awkward due to the fact you can't arrange yourself to easily access the area. You will swear and swear and swear trying to get it back on. I did :shock: :shock: :shock: Not a fun job. At all.

Black K593 *** with smoked rear lights and 17 inch? multi spoke alloys in Reepham today at 6pm - I saw you just past the high school - you then headed Cawston way - I turned into town. I was in the 107, so I didn't wave :D

Can anyone help?

Whilst stripping down the brakes yesterday I noticed that the rubber gaiter near the gearbox has split. How easy a job is it - has anyone a guide? Typically it's the off side, which is buried in the middle of the car! Thanks!

Adjusted screen heater direction bowden cable - including taking it off the control arm in the air box assembly, because it was stiff. If you have the same idea - don't. It's a bastard to get back on. (It's nice and smooth now though).

Green VR6 L755/L775 *** heading away from Norwich on the Fakenham Road just before Bawdeswell @ 12.45pm yesterday (Sat). We were in the little Red 107 that turned off left. Nice noise! Obviously didn't wave, as you may have thought I was a nut-bar!!

Crap dude - seriously bad news :( :(

Excellent - cheers for that! I'm into the city on Monday, so will pick some up. Howcome you use three, out of interest? I only use two for my uprated loom. Just curious like /looks for long nosed smiley/

It's a standard 998 jobbie - the unit works completely apart from: No siren - never worked properly - siren now removed Indicators do not illuminate on arming/disarming/activation of alarm. Was working this morning, but now not. Battery flat, so been running on jump leads from the van. All the closure parts work fine, and the alarm will activate if the doors are opened, or the movement sensors are triggered. There is a separate Toad Powerkey Cat II immobiliser fitted, which is a keyless transponder type job - this works fine I've uncovered the alarm from behind the glovebox. It's quite evident where the cables are, as there are three fuses in a little holder. Continuity shows 2 supplies going to the ignition, splicing into the indicator wires. Presumably the third goes to the siren, haven't actually checked that yet. The unit clicks when arming etc, but there is no power out from either of the two indicator feeds (checked before the fuse). I presume this alarm unit is now shagged? Are they open-up-able to find internal fuses? How easy is an after-market alarm to fit, bearing in mind that I would like to retain the closure features? I would be installing said replacement alarm myslef. Funds are limited due to lots of diagnostic stuff needed on the old girl, not to mention a new clutch :shock: I could probably trace all the wires that go into the multiplugs if needs be, but does anybody have a colour wiring diagram? Help really appreciated Timmaaah

Right - got medieval today :shock: Got continuity between the brown/red trace cable that comes out of the ignition barrel and re-appears at the rear end of the stereo (the old switched supply). No continuity between permanent live into the ignition barrel and the corresponding connector for the brown/red cable. Ergo - melted something in the ignition :( Is the ignition barrel an easy swap over? Cheers Timmaaah

From Maplin >>>click Any good? Need to replace two in the uprated diy headlight loom. Cheapest place other than this is Wilco @ £3.50 then Halfrauds @ £5.50 then GSF @ £6.45 :shock: Surely they all do the same thing, and probably come out of the same factory? Cheers for any advice Timmaaah

Good call, but the stereo works fine with the ign supply and a multimeter over the acc supply show's it as dead as mismatched day-glo socks. I'm wondering if I melted summat in the ignition barrel?

This was a couple of years ago, and seeing as I'm slowly getting her back on the road, I thought I'd try to rectify a fault I caused. I shorted out the switched supply for the stereo - the one that becomes live with the key turned to acc (ie 1 click). There was a flash, a bit of smoke and it all stopped working :cry: . I couldn't see any blown fuses in the fuse box, so at the time I spliced into the supply that comes on with the key turned to ign (ie 2 clicks). Does anybody know where I might find a fuse for the acc switched supply so I can have the stereo on without the ignition 'primed' as it were, or have I melted something else somewhere :pale: Cheers in advance Timmaaah

Red VR going into Norwich on the Fakenham Road in Milecross at 11am today. Very shiny! Didn't wave as was in the pug

Any better ideas?

Right - charged up the battery for 24 hours, but it's shagged! Got a set of heavy duty jump leads - connected up to the van, turned her over and hey presto! Fired up a treat! Still got the same overfuelling problem, plus she will not idle at all. Going to spend the next few days taking the brake callipers off and freeing them off to make sure they won't seize, checking the tyres over, replacing fluids etc. I'm going to take her to Clive Atthowe engineering near me (unless anybody has a better idea), but will probably need to trailer/tow her there as she has not got a current mot. Mr Clutch have quoted £272 for a replacement clutch. The engine's on 122k and the chains haven't been done, but they don't sound rattly! All the bits and bobs all work, except the main beam on the headlights, although I suspect a faulty homemade replacement wiring loom (looks a bit manky!) So - hopefully the old girl will be back on the road in the not too distant future! Yay! Keep you all posted! Timmaaah /anyone near me with VAG-COM? Reepham, Norfolk?

Can I get a PeaRoast :D :D

As per title. I reluctantly had to mothball the 'rado due to unforeseen circumstances. At that time, she was over fuelling terribly. The clutch was also starting to slip. These are/were the only two major problems that she had. She's been stored in a car port, so the worst of the weather has been kept off her. Hand brake is off, but she was left in gear. The brakes have a fair amount of rust on the discs, front and rear. She was last started up about 6 months ago. I wasn't really sure of how long she was going to be off the road for, and didn't really do it properly, ie plugs out, dribble of oil in bores, up on jacks etc etc. What do I need to do to get her back on he road? The sale of my van should hopefully facilitate a resurrection for the old girl. What should I do before firing the old girl up. There's hardly any petrol in the tank, and she's due an oil change anyway! Some pointers would really be appreciated. Anybody in Norwich/Reepham fancy giving me a hand getting the old girl running sweetly again? I can offer beer as recompense! Anywhere around here that can sort the over fuelling? She would run fine with or without the maf connected, and the lambda was replaced for the last mot. TPS? I really want to get her back on the road again - too many going to the great scrapyard in the sky for my liking. Cheers in advance Timmaaah