2_Door_fun

Expansion cap in new and blue about 2 months back. So I doubt it would be duff. Everything works fine with no stat. Lower hose is toasty and car cools fine. I even puled the rad yesterday it flows fine.??? Pump is new VAG original 4 months back. I did have a moment yesterday when I thought 'you dick' I bet its upside down... :lol: It only fits 1 way. So no idea why the damn thing won't open. I removed it dropped it into a pan of water and....It opened?? Go figure that Cheers though keep em coming. Oh and to top my day my top boost hose split Just wrapped it in tape. Car makes an ace farting noise as I hit the gas :oops:

Hi. If its anything like my G60 Arghhhhh. The damn stat is located just above the power steering pump. Remove the cast support bracket. X2 vertical bolts and 1 bolt into the pump. You will then see the plastic stat housing. X2 100mm bolts. Be careful these are known to shear!!!!! Nice.. I have had mine of 4 times in 2 days. Can't get the 3 new stats to open when in the car. Put em in a pan of water and...They open Go figure, running with no stat again. Can't win.

Well tried again today. Still no joy :brickwall: I will have to pull the stat. I don't get it. No stat the lower hose is hot and car runs fine. Fit a stat and no flow round the rad lower hose is stone cold??? Just took the car out temp got to 110 and teh lower hose still cold. Had the heater on full and tons of hot air so the matrix is not airlocked??? Oh and the pump was brand new VAG about 6 months back. HELP

New stat today. Checked it opened before fitting. Refilled from top hose and also hose into rad its self. Car has run great with no stat all summer. I have dropped the water about 5 times now this last 6 months trying to get it to run with a stat. The Rad is clear and the heater works great :mad: ???????????

Well the end of Summer has come and gone... Been running with no Thermostat all Summer. Today I fitted an 80° stat and watched the gauge go very high :roll: So it all begins again.... :( My rad fan does not come on by its self!! I wired it to a switch on the dash and both speeds work fine.. I have never managed to get it to come on as it should..3 new thermo switches!!! So I drilled two 1mm holes in the stat to enable the removal of any airlocks down there. The fitting went well. A first time winner no leaks or anything. Took the car out for a run and the temp hit 100° fast and stopped just over that. I got the car home felt the lower hose and its cold?????????? All Summer the car has run like a dream with no stat. Low temps and excellent running... Where oh where will the airlock be????? :help: :help:

Hi. The third bolt is a bugger. Look on the firewall / bulkhead on the gearbox side of the bay. Its higher up the wall than you think. Took me a while to spot it.. Get your head in the gap above the Gbox and look up. You will spot it. I got bored and ragged of teh arm and broke it. :oops: then I saw where it was and went back to the breakers for a Mk2 Golf item.... :D

Chhesr for the reply. :shock: £120 from Awesome...... What about a solid from BB via Gwerks. Or are these not healthy for the car? I ask as its alot cheaper..

Hi all. Well I seem to have engine movement. One of my Nitrous lines although wrapped is rubbing against and eating my main loom at the rear of the engine bay :shock: I can't rework my lines so need to do something about this wear. So is this indicative of a failed or failing mount or do I need tougher mounts. The car has massive torque I guess there is alot of engine movement. The lump is moving atleast an inch. Is this normal or what? As ever cheers

Good O To be honest I doubted it was needed. To much micy taking on your post. :lol: I try to cut corners with my car. Well to be honest usualy mothers Clio...Drum brakes arghhhhh. I have to leave tools alone or the body may end up with dints :oops: Her Corsa did :roll:

See here Then follow tle link I posted in the reply. Easy peezy. Take the shaft off 10 mins to rebuild the joint. :lol:

I have a 13 row cooler fitted to a MK1 gti filter head. Oil comes up to temp easily and even in the current cool weather. Should be interesting to watch it as Winter comes on.

Damn looks good though. I may practice on the spare oil temp gauge I have :lol: . Cheers

Yeah I thought that when My VDO's went in. Errrr Orange needles!!!! Red back light So being as that install looks well nice how ya get white needles????

Yes I have a VDO bar gauge from an Audi with Audi sensor. Stripped em from a car in a mates yard. Before this gauge had a TIM psi gauge also. Sender unit is mounted at the side of the head where th charger gets its feed from. Oil is Semi Synth 10-40 changed about 4 weeks ago along with filter, plugs fuel filter.

Hi bud The car went through a 5 month rebuild. Gearbox, Head off n skimmed new gaskets. New oil pump n water pump also a charger rebuild. All the engine componets were in excellent shape. Cam was unworn ect. When I pulled the old pump The sump was clean clear. The pump mesh was also clear. I have heard of the valve in some filters can sieze. The pressure valve and also an anti drain back valve?. I don't know if this could slow oil flow??

Well as it sez on the tin. Just recentley I have noticed my oil pressure needle pauses after start and then rises to good pressure. Also the oil lights blinks after start in relation to the slow rise. I'm only talking about moments here but was wondering if this could be different oil or maybe the change in the weather is keeping the oil a little thicker when cold? I ask as I have seen this sought of thing many years back with a Cavalier SRi. again many miles it was my Dads then mine. It had this needle pause as the car came to the end of its life....Body rotten and Cam worn out. I know the C is way better than any Cav so.... The car does have a new oil pump. Bought from Volks a part it was the first thing I replaced as the car had many miles so I got an oil and water pump. Could maybe a poor filter cause this pause??? Cheers all

Oh Wwhat a joy 10mins a tube of Auto sol and my Dremmel.... Oh on the before shot the gunk on the pipe is Silcone digester..Love that word. Previous owner had the zorst badly fitted and piled loads of silicone on to stop the banging.

How did ya get on with the rebuild???

Hi It should be freeley moving. Have you stripped the bearings and rebuilt it? If so then ya have rebuilt it wrong. This is a common mistake and do not worry. Strip the joint again. You need to lay out the inner n outer components so that the small parts of the inner race are opposite the large nodes of the outer case. A CV joint is actually easier to assemble incorrectly. Once its wrong the joint is solid and stiff. Just look at how you have built the joint and then change it as above. See here for an explanation. Notice the joint shots large nodes face small Hope it works. :lol:

How do I know what is a MK4 Golf :oops: My maye has a breakers. Not a big en but he has a couple of up to date or so Golf's in at teh mo. Calipers would cost me zero.

Hi MAte. Rubbing Rubbing :wink: If I started driving the plate would slice the tread from the wall. Yeah I guess spacers are the way forward.. More expense ahh these cars. Still ya live n learn. To be honest I never give the wheels a 2nd thought. its kinda like no worries others have done this :oops: Best place for spacers anybody.... As an edit. Moved the circlip one notch up this morning and all is well. Car looks much better Will have to look into spacers at a later date.

Had a busy afternoon doing this. Removed the struts and dismantled em. Cut the bump stop. Removed the circlip slid it down to the lowest notch on the shocker tube. Car looks great but spring plate is now sitting on top of the rear tyre??? :lol: The edge of the plate is just sitting on the shoulder of the tyre. I'm running on OZ Titans...205/40/17 Any answers????

Good man. Glad to be of help. The springs are really stiff to pop back. Suprising how much force they hold. Infact I got a call from a guy I know a guy who had the AA out to his G60 the otherday. I was telling the AA guy how to pop the bonnet..... :lol: Well funny. Alls well that ends well.

Popping the bonett is easy. 1 long flat bladed screwdriver. Slide under front of car. You are looking for the slam panel striker springs. These are what grab your bonett pins. Slip the driver inbetween metal and spring. Rotate driver spring pops and bonett pops. The springs are not coils they are in the area of that alarm button you are pointing at. Grab a torch and let your eyes adjust to it. Look up at the area where the pins would hit the panel. You will spot em. Look at the attached image (just been out n taken it) The spring is in the red oval. This shot is from inside the engine bay. 1 spring on each side of car. Should be well east to spot as your car has the front off.

Well I got the gauges in yesterday well pleased I am. They look factory. Bit of a job to fit em. Pleanty of use for the old Dremmel tool. Pleanty of shots of how to. Now to find a VDO boost gauge. My current TIM is to different and won't fit the Audi front panel :roll: So I went from this To this in an afternoon. 1st dismantle your Audi gauges and release the metal frame. Cut the side arms off I used a grinder. Start removing all teh excess metal from the frame. You will also need to do alot of plastic removal from the ashtray area. I took my centre console out and just cut teh lot away. As you can see all that remains of the ashtray is the bottom panel and abit of the sides. Just to give it a bit of strength. I marked the base of teh metal frame and drilled through it then used thos holes as a guide to drill through the plastic base through to the cubby hole. The lower lip of the Audi panel hides the screw heads. The screws can just be seen under the ledge. Couple of closeup shots of teh frame and ashtray area. The finished item.... Others may have fitted their gauges dif so don't take this as gospel. If I had another centre console I would refine the work but you live n learn and I'm happy enough. :D