KipVR

Chain Tensioner, top one.

As muppetlab says, fill in the scratch with some touch up. But you won't get it flat with a machine polisher, you'll have to go over it with a bit of wet and dry (1200 with soapy water) and then polish it up with some g3 and g10.

Nice write up! Very comprehensive, what about some pics? Have you actually tried the engine with the floor mount pedal and had it working ok? If so can you tell me what the part no is? I've got an old battered floor mount pedal for mock up from Pete, but the engine doesn't run with it plugged in, but runs fine with the different style hanging TT pedal which is an arse to fit. Did you mention using the VR6 Aux water pump? prettey obvious though I know and you did say transfer 'everything' I din't cut my rear engine mount down, others may have ? Have you mentioned oil pressure senders? Might have missed it but didn't see it. I couldn't fit two fans in front and ended up just using one large one which according to DG is fine. Did you fit two in there? Worth noting that the VR oil cooler works well, and not only does it cool the oil but the oil gets heated by the water when it's cold to warm the engine up quicker. However I'd strongly recomment getting a new one as they fur up and get corroded/less efficient with age. Nice write up!

I'm just over here! I bought a roll of flexi and worked out how many and of which type of unions I'd need. Bought the whole lot from earls I think through where I used to work. If I'm honest I'd pay the extra pennies and get goodridge stuff next time round, as the unions were not that easy to use. They are re-usable unions, not the crimp type. They have an olive that you put over the inner tube and then screw up onto, sounds easy but the braiding gets in the way. Also use the smallest bore you can get. The larger the inner surface area of the tube, the more expansion you get under pressure. I've not used the brakes yet so can't comment on how spongey they are, but I thought I'd give it a shot as I know of a few race cars that run fully braid and they seem fine, but then they don't weigh as much. As for only the crimp type being MOT legal soon, that sucks!! But hey it's not a big job to change them back. My car's now running at long last (and sounding good) so not long until I try and MOT it...

Hey Pete looks like we're both making some progress on our moneypits! Would there be any merit in driving it in-between fixing the injectors and doing the vanos so that if it does go better, you would know if it was the vanos or the injectors that made the difference?

He must have been chatting up the wife then :lol: :lol: I had my suspicions! Having said that, I havent seen many marketing departments get a two year head start on a project, and if you're trying to keep a secret then they are the last people to tell...but then why would a sales man know! we could have a better clue if we had a pic of your missus mate :norty: :lol: :lol: there is a picture of her on this forum mate, I'll let you find it, she's worth it!

I hope it's true, but I really want it to be more than just FWD like the sciriocco/current corrado and proper HP, over 400 at least. 8)

According to a local VW salesman my wife was chatting to during a party, there's one out in 2012. Supposed to be very nice and top secret, although not any more! Either he was trying to impress my wife with his knowledge of he's telling the truth, anyone know any more?

Only figured it out when one of mine did it! (I left a note!)

Not keen on the whole style of the car, but like the engine/drivechain setup. 500hp in a 4wd Corrado is cool!!

It's usually young kids opening their rear doors that cause dings. Park miles from the entrance and you'll stand a better chance.

You're kidding right? Thanks for the helpful post. No im dead serious, whats there to kid about? Ive done it before when the offsets are too low, had 4mm machined off the back of some oldschool rial wheels to decrease the poke a bit. Sorry that read harsh but I didn't mean it to be. You need to fix the problem though Abdul, not the symptom. You ned to find where the 10mm comes from. I would start with the wishbones, the bushes may be fine on each one, but if one is bent upwards it' could still ride right, especially if it's been set up since it's been bent. Measure from the inner wishbone mounts to the outer ball joint on each one. Then measure from the inner wing to the outer wing to make sure they are the same. Check the bolts onto the subframe too.

You're kidding right?

I've had ebc brakes on my corrado before, and they warped, and juddered on braking at higher speeds. Then I went on a track day and they somehow sorted themselves out! I've since had this problem on my wife's old Mk3, so I put some serious heat into them and sure enough they came out good too! I think the trick is to make sure you cool them down slowly, or keep them cool in the first place. This is why I tried to fit G60 brake cooling ducts to my VR, but unfortunately they don't fit without a bit of modification which I haven't done yet. Glad to see you got a new set though, I won't be shopping with them in the future.

Hey Chris, I've been too busy for the past few months getting the house ready for sale, it's finally completed and going on Rightmove on Tuesday, so now I can concentrate on the Corrado again 8) Looks like a full bare metal respray is in order soon. Also the Mk2's going up for sale. I need something better on petrol, I'm even thinking of going over to the dark side and using diesel :( , so if anyone's interested in a nice 65k Mk2 in Silver give me a call, I've fitted a new cam belt, discs and pads, fuel air and oil filters. Tuned etc... looking for high 2's

A good guide about the basics of knocking etc.... http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/ ... Page_4.php

Yeah I didn't type that very well Kev, I didn't mean that the torque of the knock sensor governed the extents to which the ecu can retard or advance the ignition, it just alters the sensitivity of the knock sensor itself. So basically it's important to torgue it up to the correct setting or it won't pick up the pinking correctly which in turn misleads the ECU. Really i was just demonstrating that there is a direct correlation between the knock sensor and the ECU's timing. Other imputs are from the temp sensor and engine speed.

I'm sorry but unless there is something different about the Corrado VR6 ECU that i don't know about then your prettey much all mistaken. Knock sensor's were installed on cars engines to allow ecu's to control the ignition timing. If the ECU isn't advancing/retarding the ignition timing enough you loosen/tighen up the knock sensor. So when you put in a higher octane fuel you should see the difference prettey much straight away. There is however a nominal fuel rating upon which the cars timing is based, so your car will have it's advance/retard limits, but these are usually well within the boundaries of the fuels readily available.

There's a few covered screws and then just pry it off.

I've got some new seals lying about, for cupra r type, but there £42 from Seat.

Thats the best pic of a Corrado I've ever seen, the car looks the absolute nuts. For a nice design the Corrado does have some aukward angles, but that pic just makes it look perfect. :notworthy: Banner pic for sure.

The council's insurance company can't write your car off, they will only do that if it's not repairable or you requested money for the car instead (if it's less or equal to the value of the car). How are the brakes coming along ?

The difference might be minimal Karl, shouldn't worry about if it hasn't gone wrong yet, I know others have had problems.

There are two directions of damping within a shock absorber called bump and rebound, which are both adjustable on the V3 Bump is compressing the shock - ie when you hit a bump Too little bump and the springs compress too fast causing too much lean in corners and less feedback. Too much bump and you prevent the wheels from moving over bumps, so it feels crashy. Rebound is extending the shock - ie when the spring pushes it back Too little rebound and the spring is allowed to bounce back as hard as it was compressed- really crashy juddering ride. Too much rebound and you'll prevent the suspension from having time to reset before the next bump, causing ratchetting. The aim of a good suspension setup is to maintain tyre contact with the road as much as possible whilst moving the body of the car as little as possible. Making everything hard and limiting your travel will just make you hop and skip over bumps, which is both slower and uncomfortable. It's actually quite rare to find that a (new) standard setup is any worse than a coilover kit on a bumpy b road, as usually the car remains more composed over bumps due to the extra travel. But it does look sh1t and feel less sporty and isn't as good round the ring roads.... Unsprung weight playes a big part in handling, heavy wheels and big brakes carry more mass, which means they can't change direction so fast. You also get fast and slow speeds of damping options, but that's for another day....

hmm, interesting. didnt realise the 24v had the same connections. I didn't have one on the engine to compare. The benefit of the 24v pas is that its newer and maybe quieter? The 24V pas pump runs a higher pressure than the 12V one for the later style racks, you might be ok, but it might give you rack problems later on. Also it takes different pas fluid.