Henny

yup, it does, but it shouldn't leak unless it's under some pretty serious pressure which you'd only get when the water is VERY hot... That's why my first reply was to replace the expansion tank and cap... ;)

*goes off to supercharge his Corrado nitro car* :twisted:

ah, man, I'd LOVE for them to bring drugs testing in here where I work... A Managerless office would be sooooo nice to work in... ;) :lol:

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk not gonna be the cheapest, but you'll definately get one... 8)

Nope, that would have been pointless IMHO... what's the point of putting in a LONGER 2nd gear and then shortening EVERY gear in the box by changing to a different final drive?!?

valvers can run a little rich on run-over... if it was as you were giving it some and changing gear, don't worry too much as it's likely to just be from that... 8) If you're worried, get a mate to follow you during the day and tell your what he can see coming out of your exhaust... ;)

looks right to me... Get a new grommet in there (they're pence from VW) and see if it improves things any... Are you going to the next MK meet? If it's still like it is then, I'll have a look to see what's going on if you like... 8)

if it's overflowing, you have a leak... otherwise, how would the water overflow?!? ;)

potatonet, if the crank bolt is loose/shears off, your CAMBELT is affected and either messes the timing up or the cambelt comes off and messes up your engine... :| It's worth checking and replacing the bolt no matter if you're worried about it being a problem or not.... it's a £5 part (inc washer!) which could save you from having to have an engine rebuild... that's a no-brainer to me... ;) (just wish I'd have known about it before mine sheared off... :roll: )

if the expansion tank (or cap) is leaking, the temps will rise MUCH quicker than when it's a sealed, pressurised system. ANY leak on the coolant system will cause temp rises like you describe... ;)

yup, it's a water powered heater matrix... what you've got to remember is that a 30degree heated water filled matrix will be enough to warm up your car's interior pretty quickly on these cold mornings... ;) Just look at the radiators in your house... bet they don't get much over 35-40 degreesC, yet they'll warm your house up PDQ... 8)

1.8 16V and 2.0 16V consumption figures are pretty much identical, as are power, acceleration and top speed... G60 is faster on top end and much quicker on acceleration. However, they drink a little bit more fuel than the valvers on the urban cycle due to having to power the charger and not getting any gain from it when in traffic... On a motorway journey you'll probably get only 1 or 2 mpg less from a G60 though... (These are all for standard, unmodified cars, modding the engines will cause the cars to use more fuel though...) If you're only bothered about which will give you the best MPG figures, you're probably better off with an 2.0 8V (if you can find one!) which should give you much better figures 'cos they're supposed to have just about sod all get up and go compared with the rest of the range!

You're right, that's not correct for a VR6... they normally run much warmer than that... It sounds like either a crap water temp gauge sender (unlikely, due to oil temps though) or the thermostat is jammed open... Either that, or someone's been feeding your engine with dry ice! :lol:

Majik, Good point! 8) Disposable rubber gloves work much better though, and you don't have problems with them not sticking to any crud on the charger casing like you would with masking tape... ;) (a trick learnt from G-man when he sent me my charger back... 8) ) Supercharged, A good torque wrench should be an essential normal tool for anyone doing any engine work like this... it's not a specialist tool...

change the expansion tank and tank cap... Also check that the little hose from the expansion tank to the top hose hasn't got any blockages in it... Sounds like a classic expansion tank/ tank cap problem to me... 8)

Ah-Ha! Can you get me the SEAT part number off one of your front calipers for me? It'd be much appreciated... 8) Nice looking car... bet it's fun to lob around a bit though... 8)

no specialist tools needed on those jobs... 8)

need two too... 8)

it also means that when you hit 3rd gear you're higher up in the rev range and are smack bang in the peak torque range for the G60 engine, so it also improves your 30 -> 70 (or above ;) ) times as well... The reason I did mine originally wasn't for 0-60 times... I did it because I sat down with Vince and had a long chat about what I wanted from my gearbox... I felt that I was happy with the box in general but always felt that 2nd was just too short and the 2nd -> 3rd change was too big a jump in ratios meaning that it bogged down into third when REALLY giving it some... I didn't get that problem after the rebuild... 8) Phat_vr6 had put me onto the idea initially (and actually managed to source me a VR6 box :notworthy: 8) ) so I had an idea about doing it, but it was Vince who actually convinced me it was a good idea... 8)

*mod edit - removed dead pic posts for you... 8) * Looks good... nice work! 8) p.s. the length of the uncompressed spring DOES NOT indicate the drop you'll get as the springs will have different strengths so will compress differently... ;) A higher poundage spring can be almost half the uncompressed length of a lesser spring, but may make the car sit higher than the lesser spring... :|

did you change the rubber gromet inside the pedal connection? (the bit wot the cable connects to on the pedal end ;) ) That gromet makes one hell of a difference... Also, you may find that the pedal has bent slightly...

Banana Man, why not stick it mid way and make the car 4x4 if you were gonna stick the engine in the back? That'd make a few people look again when it blatted past 'em, all 4 wheels spinning and the W8 screaming! :lol: 8)

biggrim, you don't need to get under the car all that much... I've done it before from above when I didn't have any axle stands available... You should be able to get it done in a full day even if you've not done one before... I did the last one on J-DUB in about 3 hours from engine switch off to engine re-start... 8)

I've just got a G60 with 150K after J-DUB got written off... As Steve says, J-DUB had over 230K miles under her belt before the crank bolt sheared off (which, incidentally, can happen at any age, just ask Bananaman! ;) :| ) The 8V engine is a rock and will keep going as long as it's serviced regularly... the same is pretty much true of the supercharger... Depending on just how cheap this car is, I definately wouldn't rule it out if it's HPI clear and has a good history folder full of receipts with it...

the length of the inlet tracts is connected to the torque and power you get from your engine... making the inlet tracts so short will bugger up the power band of the car something chronic... :| A much better idea is to get some cool tape from somewhere like Demon-tweeks and coat the underside of the inlet manifold with that. This way you don't bugger up the engine's characteristics but reduce the heat soak the inlet manifold suffers from... 8)