Henny

Well, my Dad has just phoned and a lorry came this morning and took away the shell to be scrapped... :( End of an era for me really... I've owned her since 2002... second longest time I've owned a car, and the first I properly modified and got going quickly... :? Rest in Peace...

used this method a few times... got quite a few knackered 19mm sockets now :? :lol:

...and what brakes you want to run if you're modifying the car at all (or have plans to!) Basic rules of thumb; If you've got a 4 cylinder car, you need a set of 4x100 wheels, with a width of between 6.5" and 9" and an offset of between 40 and 20 (lower offset for wider wheels) in a 15, 16 or 17 inch diameter, and these should pretty much fit straight on. Bare in mind that early G60s and early 1.8 16V Corrados have narrower wheel arches, so if you go for a wider wheel, or a lower offset, then you may find that your wheels stick out past the arches... 7.5" wide x 16" diameter with a 30 offset are pretty much perfect in my humble opinion... ;) If you've got a VR6, then you need a set of 5x100 wheels, with a width of between 6.5" and 9" and an offset of between 45 and 25 (lower offset for wider wheels) in a 15, 16 or 17 inch diameter, and these should pretty much fit straight on.

part numbers for wings were on a sticky label which was removed when they were sprayed with paint... :brickwall:

who says it was secure...? :cuckoo: :norty: :lol: It was the old engine, so I didn't really give a hoot, as long as it didn't fall off onto me or my mate... Basically it was a pair of breeze blocks with a shed load of packing wooden planks to balance it up a bit more... :ignore: The complete Engine and gearbox came out that time and was replaced with my uprated 252bhp engine and Quaife & VR6 ratio'd gearbox... Taking the whole drivetrain including the suspension out would probably be almost as easy if that's what you wanted to do, as you could just: take off the front end as before, undo the exhaust at the downpipe -> cat flange (easy to get at), undo the steering rack -> column connection undo the brake caliper flexy -> solid pipes for the front brakes (and ABS sensors if fitted!), undo the top mounts to drop the whole shock/springs undo the rear subframe to remove the whole engine, gearbox, subframe, wishbones, It will, however, be fecking heavy! My mate and I lifted the engine off that stack of bricks and onto a trolley by hand, there's no way we could have done that if it had the suspension attached too! depending on which bolts fight you and if you're lucky or not, between 2 and 3 hours to pull it out in the ghetto style I did it... Possibly quicker if you've got decent tools/engine hoist and a smoother surface to work on than a Keep Clear area in a carpark... :lol: :cuckoo:

Fair point... they were never heated on any factory Corrado... (I don't think I can think of a single car where the interior mirror IS heated though... :roll: )

I had one go on my MKI Golf wayyyyyy back in the day (we're talkin' early 90s here) and VW wanted over £70 for the equivalent pipe! £27 for that pipe's not actually that bad IMHO?

Eh? don't understand mate... :? If you're asking are my wheels 8.5x17 on the Passat, then yes, they are... Thought I'd add on the missus' daily drive that I get to play with once in a while... 58plate Audi A3 Cabrio S-Line 2.0TFSI (200bhp) 6speed DSG gearbox and lots of toys.... is very, very nice... 8)

GSF lists it as: 99589 BRAKELINE KIT-BRAIDED Corrado G60 6 Line £52.50 Think £80+ is taking the piddle... ;)

get some Goodridge braided hoses to replace the flexy pipes with, and some nickel/copper pipe (it's got a special name, but I can't remember what it is!) to make up the fixed lines... They'll outlast the rest of the car then... and if you use DOT5.1 fluid then you'll feel a positive difference in your brakes too... 8) *EDIT* it's called cupro-nickel pipe... :? :lol:

Nah, I had to pay for that Keep Clear being painted on by my garage door, so I thought, "what the hell, I paid for it, I may as well abuse it!" :lol: That's from when I swapped J-DUB's engine into H-YYU... took about 10 hours in total due to some of the bolts on H-YYU fighting me in a big way... :brickwall:

First off, jack up the car and undo the exhaust manifold to downpipe and drive shafts, then drop it back onto it's wheels... Take off the headlamps and grille, take off the bumper, take off the slam panel, put jack under sump to hold weight of engine, remove radiator, take off front engine mount, then remove front subframe (I had removed the P/S pump in the pics below to avoid having to drain the power steering fluid, hence the subframe balaced on the front wing... :cuckoo: ) At this point, the only things holding in the engine and gearbox are wiring, fuel lines, gear selector cables and gearbox and rear mounts... put something under the engine to support it (do not lift it!) and then undo the rest of the these. You should now be able to lift the engine up slightly (I found this helps to get it out of the bay) and simply (AND CAREFULLY!) roll the car away from the engine... pics? how's these? ;) :lol:

Here's my 179,000 mile, 115bhp TDI (PD) Passat estate... it really is a load lugger, and the only mods I've made are the wheels, headlamps (proper HID headlamps with 6000k bulbs), clear indicators (old ones were shafted!), dog guard and debadged the rear (only 'cos I knocked off the P from Passat by accident!) Starts first time, goes around corners (just about), brakes OK, and can carry ten 3' x 2'6" paving slabs in the back at once!!! :cuckoo: :clap: (hence the lowered second photo!) By god, is it boring to drive though! :?

and the pressure accumulator! be careful as when you disconnect this pipe you'll get high pressure fuel leaking out until the accumulator has lost it's pressure! if you've not run the car for a couple of days before fitting the pipe, you should be OK, but just be aware that the whole idea of the accumulator is to hold fuel pressure, and you're removing a pipe from it, so it won't hold the pressure, it'll release it! :?

the 305s I have are the full kit, so the proper mounting bracket and brand new calipers from Seat back before they got silly with the prices... 8)

the wheels I've currently got on my Grey G60 were polished when I got them from Germany... I liked 'em, but had them refurbished back to standard silver powdercoat as they're then much, much easier to take care of and I'm a real lazy get at times! :lol: Those look nice with the centers grey and the faces polished... not seen a set done like that, and they suit it nicely... Personally, I think your C sits almost perfectly... I definitely wouldn't go lower as you'll screw up the handling and ride quality... The 305s are awesome... Jim's been witness to just how silly they are when I took him out at Bruntingthorpe and did a brake test from about 110mph to stand still... I'm glad we were both wearing seatbelts! :lol: The offset is, indeed, stamped on the inside of one of the spokes normally... Are you sure you're going to need to space the wheels to fit the brakes? There looks to be loads of clearance there...

yup, all of 'em are heated... or at least, they were when the cars left the factory... :brickwall:

the two holes are for if you're changing the key barrel... sounds like yours has had a new lock barrel at some point if you've got two holes in there...

as above, just buy a new PG (g60 engine) bolt as they've been uprated now... DX was a MKI Golf Gti 1.8 engine...

only thing you've not mentioned there is the earth from the fan resistor pack...

the last 2 numbers (30 in your case) are the casting number, that's not necessarily the same as the offset! The 40 offset end with 35... they cast 'em with a much larger center than needed and then machined them down to the offset required... IIRC, 40 was the actual cast offset for the 35s, and they could then do any offset between 40 and 35 by machining off material from the mounting face... 35 was the actual offset for the 30 cast, and from that they could make anything from 35 to 30... etc,etc, etc.... 8) You could still have 35 offset wheels, but on a "30" casting which would give you a slightly deeper dish than a 35 offset on a "35" casting... Does that make sense? It's been a long day... ;) :lol: I'll check I've still got the adaptors (I'm sure I have, but it's been a while!)... Oh, and I've edited my post before as I got the numbers the wrong way around... :)

ooh, ooh, ooh! Borbet Cs? I can answer this one then! :lol: :clap: :clap: :clap: The wheels I was on about in my earlier post are 7.5x16 Borbet Cs! (I've been called a Borbet C whore in the past... :oops: ) Right, the 35 offset Borbet C is a less dished casting than the 30 offset ones... at least, this is true for the 16" ones, and I'm reasonably sure this is also true for the 17" versions... This means that the clearance on them is much better than the 30 offset ones which have a deeper dish to the spokes so they hit the calipers! I actually have a spare 35 offset 16" wheel which I've had a 6mm spacer made for so I can use it as a spare wheel without anyone being able to tell the difference (unless you look really closely at the spacer!)... The best way to tell what the dish shape is on your wheels is to have a look on the rim for the casting number... it'll be something like C75730 or similar... That means: Borbet type C 7.5 inch width, 17 inch diameter, 30mm offset casting style... Unless the brakes you're putting on a HUUUUAAAGGGEEEE, you will probably be able to get away with a 10mm spacer to clear your new brakes... at least, with a 10mm spacer they cleared my 305mm 4 pot Seat Ibiza Cupra Brembos in both 30 and 40 offset 16" versions... I went with 11mm when I had the new spacers made for the 40 offset wheels, just to give me an extra 1mm of clearance on the brakes... they were somewhat close before, but not dangerously so, but as I was having new ones made anyway, I thought why not add in a mm clearance?!? :lol: On J-Dub, I only spaced the front wheels... on H-YYU I've spaced all 4 wheels to keep the same offset all around... I happen to have a set of 10mm, custom made, hub-centric spacers which were made specifically for Borbet C wheels (they replace the spiggot ring too!) going spare at the moment...

I use 11mm spacers on my early Corrado G60, but that puts the 40 offset wheels back to 29, which is about right for a 7.5" wheel on a G60... The reason I run these spacers with 40 offset wheels is because the dish on the 40 offset wheels is less than on a 30 offset set of the same wheels (they're a different casting). This means that they'll clear my Brembo brakes easily, but won't change the handling characteristics of the car... On J-DUB (late G60) I ran the same design wheels, only with a 30 offset , again with an 11mm spacer giving a final offset of 19... this didn't seem to screw up the handling any, didn't make it tram line and didn't stop a local motorsport company corner-weighting the car and setting up the tracking/camber properly for me... With the spacers and 30 offset wheels on my early G60, the wheels stuck out from the arches and looked bloody silly... with the 40s, they sit perfectly... I can't see the extra 4mm you're on about making that much difference, but it's all dependant on what the offset and width of the wheels you're running are...

Maplins is doing a special offer at the moment for a 12V 12W solar charger for £39.99 That should stop your car from going flat.... if it's pulling more than 1amp, when it's just sat there, there's something really, really wrong!

got one out of a car for sale.... will try and grab a photo tonight for you...