Henny

I'd go with a contrasting colour, something like an anthracite or similar to break up the silver-ness of the whole effect... That's if you really want to do something else to it, 'cos I think it's stunning as it is... 8)

yup, undo the 24mm bolt, and pull the wheel off, then turn it slightly and plonk it back on again... 8) If you still can't get it on straight, then you need to have it adjusted via the tracking, which is annoying 'cos you've just had the tracking done... :|

don't ya just luuurrrvvvveee british weather?!? I'm sat here feeling rather soggy myself after finally getting my arse in gear and fitting my new radiator... :?

there is a clip on the outside of the throttlecable just where it goes throught the bracket before it connects to the throttlebody. You'll see that there are quite a few notches in the cable guide for this clip to sit in... Simply pull the clip off, pull the cable guide back through the bracket until the cable is almost tight and then put the clip in the groove closest to the bracket again... Make sure that you press the throttle (with the engine off!) a few times and then check that it is returning to it's end stop on the throttle body and is still pressing the idle switch on the body itself. Also get a mate to press the pedal and see if it gets to full throttle too... 8) Good luck! 8)

could also be caused by dead/dying rear axle bushes... :|

yeah, it's part of the dizzy... I'm pretty certain that you can get a replacement one on the 1.8 16V rather than having to replace the dizzy like on a G60... ask around at Euro GSF etc and see what they say... 8)

yeah, I'd go with hall sender too... take the dizzy cap off and check for any oil in there... if there is, then it's time for a new dizzy which should sort the problem for good... 8)

ah, the blue on the dials is EASY.... it's the blue LCDs that's the swine.... ;)

yup, they're the same as Golf 16V ones... you're best of going to either Euro or GSF though... I dunno if Halfords would stock 'em... :?

if you can see arcing on the leads, put some new ones on! There should be no arcs at all from the leads, as this means that the outer insulation has broken down or become damaged, and the current is shorting to the block rather than sparking in the cylinder like it's supposed to be.... You WILL feel the difference when you put new leads on if and old one has been arcing... 8)

according to Google: An American mile is 1760 yards which is the same as an English mile... :?

I'd guess that if anything it's easier 'cos the caliper is just held on with a pair of bolts into the mount rather than into the sliders, so you'll only need a single spanner to get the caliper off... 8) I didn't have a look when I fitted mine as to how you get the pads out of the caliper, but I can't imagine that it would be that difficult... :?

If I Remember Correctly....

the one I just bought from Euro turned out to be a genuine VAG one which has just had the VAG logo sanded off it (badly 'cos you can still read it! ;) ) 8) They were listing VR6 ones for £117 IIRC.... 8)

Mine's doing a pretty damned good job of keeping itself off the road recently... :roll: :lol:

8)

the way I did it was to disconnect one of the pipes and turn the pulley by hand (or a cordless drill! ;) ) to pump out the fluid... Putting it back in again was basically the same... You have to turn the steering lock to lock a few times while doing it... it's a bit of a labourious boring task, but one that should save some aggro in the future... 8) Oh, and using the drill I was on the slower speed which was around 400rpm max which shouldn't run the pump too hard while it's got practically no fluid in it to lubricate it... 8)

:( not good to hear... Odds are if it's creased the rear quarter panels, the insurance company will just write it off straight away... :( Make sure you get yourself in to a Doctor to get your neck checked out... It's not worth letting it slip for the problems that it could cause you in the future... :| Hope you get it all sorted ASAP and with the minimum of hassles... 8)

JMRacing = 16VG60 from this forum.... He's responsible for far too many of the mods on my motor, and is a damned good guy to deal with... ;) :lol:

wouldn't the shock mounting/balljoint be at the wrong angle etc if you used the wrong arm? I'd say that fitting the wrong arm would screw the geometry up completely and wouldn't be a clever thing to do... :| scruffydubbers, yeah, I think it is about 10mm difference... 8)

yup, that's the correct pipe... it should be a kinda copper/brass colour and run along the rear of the exhaust manifold and into a hex connector into the manifold itself... 8) Plugs for a G60 are pretty specific as they need to be platinum to take the heat/boost levels... they should be Bosch W6DPO and should be under £40 per set from the dealer... 8) They do last a looooonnnnnnggggg while though, so don't be too scared! ;) :lol: The VIN number is stamped into the scuttle panel just above where that pipe you're asking about connects to the exhaust manifold. It's also on the sticker on the inside of the boot near to the VW badge on the rear panel and probably on a plate somewhere I can't remember 'cos I just got back from the pub :oops: ;) :lol:

I'm already running with tyre foam instead of a spare, and my local garage (to work at least! ;) ) has LPG on tap... I'm SERIOUSLY interested in this conversion... any more details? It may save me running 2 cars! 8)

will do... 8) Keep an eye out for a kit from JMRacing as that's where I heard the rumour from... ;) :lol: 8)

No problems... 8) When you first get into the car, the switch will have no lights in it lit at all... When you start the engine (ie turn on the ignition) the little white light symbol on the switch will light up so that when it's dark you can see where the switch is to turn it on... 8) Then, if you turn on your sidelights, the middle bit of the light switch lights up green, and all of the other switches and dash lamps will turn on... the brightness of the rest of the dash can be altered by the thumbwheel built into the light switch, but the green light in the light switch will not change brightness... I'm not sure if the little light symbol on the light switch stays lit in this setting, as I've never checked... :? If you then turn on your main lights (second click on the switch) BOTH bulbs in the switch will turn off, but the rest of the illumination on the dash will stay lit up... Hope this answers your question... 8)

the charger will always howl, that's the joy of 'em! ;) :lol: You can remove the boost return pipe and block off the inlet on the charger with a nice plate which will give you a mad dumping noise like some people here have done... Darren (G-Man above) sells the complete kit and it's very well made... 8) The gasses that come out of that pipe you were on about ARE exhaust gasses, it connects directly into the exhaust manifold so that VAG can test the emissions as Darren says... 8) IIRC the green rubber end isn't expensive from VW so it may just be worth getting a new one... ;) 8) Check your fuse box for dead or mis-located fuses and loose relays.... occasionally the fuse box gets knocked and fuses and relays work loose... If you've done that, post back and someone here may know another reason that the MFA or rear wiper don't work... 8) Oh, and Welcome to the Forum.... 8)