Henny

you've got one of the following IMHO: A faulty connection onto the spoiler control box A faulty connection onto the spoiler motor (doubtful though as you say it always works off the switch) The blue and white wire is moving about behind the stereo, shorting to earth and screwing up the signal Or, A dodgy speed sensor on the gearbox, although I'm not sure how this works (how many wires) from memory, and I'm reasonably sure that if it was this, then your speedo also wouldn't work... :? Time to check some wiring me thinks... :? :wink:

dunno, my new slave is metal... 8)

White Corrado with grill spoiler on the M60 J13 clockwise at around 6:05pm tonight... I was stuck in traffic going the other way and I heard you floor yours past a car as you shot past... nice.... 8)

for the £20 the two oil pressure switches will cost you, and the 10 minutes to change them both, can you really afford not to change them to be sure that it's a sensor problem and not a real oil pressure problem?!? At least if changing the switches doesn't work, then you know that there's a real problem and you can go about finding it and solving it properly before you totally kill your engine... :shock:

most likely cause is that one of the former owners used to rest their foot on the clutch pedal and it's worn a slight notch in the master cylinder... depends on how annoying it is to you as to if you can be bothered to change the cylinder or not... :?

it's also worth checking the wires onto the sensors and thinking about changing the 2 oil pressure switches... it could just be that you've got a dodgy switch or wiring connector (either on the oil filter head, or the side of the head where the oil line to the 'charger comes from) which could be failing due to the high vibrations at redline. The switches are cheap (less than £20 for the pair) and a doddle to change over... 8) Look for the cheap solutions first, then, if they don't solve it, think about a new oil pump... 8)

I'm pretty certain that it was an option up to '92 and then became standard fitment on G60s and then on all VR6s... 8)

the base mounts on the F1 were different (longer)... it's only the body and the glass that were based on the Corrado mirror... 8)

choumbie, have a word with G-man, he sells a kit including a small filter for the ISV feed and the blanking plate to do this mod... 8) Oh, and beavis there IS one set of Ford bits that I KNOW you advise fitting to modded G60s.... ;) Red top injectors are Ford Motorsport items! :lol: :-P

No problems... 8) (oh, and the engine's nicer now it's in the car! ;) )

black gaffa tape works a treat randal_24 ;) Jo sounds to me like a sensor that can't keep up and gives out a dodgy speed pulse once the wheels spin over a certain speed... get it hooked up to a VAG-COM and see what the error code is... 8)

I just found out that I've gotta be in work at 4:30 am tomorrow... :shock: :? I'll do the photos tomorrow night as there's no way I'm gonna work on the car tonight... need some sleep! ;)

Red light + Green light = Orange light, not brown. (look at a tri colour LED, Red, Green or Amber when both are on together... ) Light filter colours don't work the same as pigment colours... that's why the 3 primary pigment colours are red, blue, and yellow, but the 3 main colours of light are Red Green and Blue... 8) Add together red blue and yellow pigments and you get black, add together red green and blue light and you get white light... 8) You'll probably have to use a slightly higher wattage green bulb, but this should work well 8)

The bumper WILL be painted along with a load of other bits that need doing and will have mesh in it, but I need to get it on the road and running properly rather than looking good at the moment, hence the black bumper and lack of mesh... ;) I'm now toying with the idea of some side skirts, but I'm not too sure about that... I may just go back to the original bumper as I now have a spare, so I'll get both painted along with my new slam panel... That'll get rid of the bent and rusting one that's on the car at the moment, and my Flash Red rear spoiler with a brake light built into it (which I may fit just for inters) will also need a bit of paint to make it match the rest of the car! ;) :lol:

it's uncommon, but not exactly rare... It was fitted to the later models, although I'm not entirely sure which, I think it was only fitted to some of the 2.0 8v and 2.0 16V cars..

the rear disks are standard genuine VAG Corrado G60 items. It's only the calipers I changed... 8)

I'll take some photos tonight when I get home (I've got to jack my car up anyway to check the tightness of all of the bolts :roll: ) and I'll try to put together a "how to" style guide.... 8)

Spotted 2 blue Corrados in Congleton this weekend. N plate Blue Storm on split-rims which I couldn't identify, with an attractive blonde lady driving it seen on both Saturday and Sunday, and a J plate dark blue (probably Aqua) coming out of Tescos at about 4pm Sunday... Anyone here? Sods law that I get my Corrado back on the road, and another 2 blue ones appear the following weekend while I'm still using my tatty golf... :roll: :lol:

It is a 30 minute job if you do it the easy way, rather than the long winded VW way of taking the lock mechanism off! ;) :roll: See HERE for details of the way I did it and that several other people here have now successfully followed... Oh, and ignore the bit about taking the seat out, apparently it's just as easy to do it with the seat in too! :D There is an ignition RELAY as well as the switch. If the switch is doing nothing when you turn it, and you are sure that the switch is OK, then I'd point the blame at that relay, especially if the windows and other electrical circuits died too... :? I'm not sure which relay it is, but I'll have a dig through my Bently manual later tonight while I'm looking up some other stuff and see if I can find it for you... 8) The fuel pump on all Corrados is basically an electric motor. If it's getting noisy, try replacing the fuel filter to see if that helps quieten things down... they often get gummed up and cause the pump to have to work harder causing it to complain a bit louder than normal! ;)

Hiya! I've got a Reiger plastic RS4 front bumper on my car, and yes, it is normal to get just the shell of the bumper when you buy one... :? To fit it properly, I had to take the old bumper off (4 big bolts under the front of the car, 2 each side... DO NOT UNDO THE MIDDLE BOLTS!) and then remove the bumper iron from the original plastic shell... To do this is simple, you simply pull out the clip seperators (little black plastic wedges) and then carefully prise the shell clips thru the iron work. To fit the new bumper I fitted the iron work to the car as it should be with all the bolts tightened up properly, and then placed the new shell over the ironwork. I then made sure it was dead centered (take your time over this else it'll look well naff!) and then drilled 4 holes each side behind the indicators/fogs and rivited the bumper to the ironwork. Originally I was going to use the normal "cotton reel" hangers by the wheel arches as I wanted an RS2 style bumper which doesn't have the side vents, but, due to a mild mess-up, I ended up with an RS4 one, so I couldn't use the reels as the vent is in the way... :roll: Instead, I lined up the bumper so it was spot on for fitment, and got a mate to drill 4 small holes through the wheel arch liner and into the bumper and put some self tapping screws in to hold the wheel arch ends of the bumper in place properly. Once the bumper has been sprayed and I'm sure I'm happy with the fit, I'll also sikaflex the ironwork onto the plastic bumper by removing it from the car again, and sealing up all of the joins between the shell and the ironwork to help stick it into place for good... ;) 8) Neither the RS bumper shell or the original bumper shell give the car any structural help at all... it's the ironwork which holds the lot onto the car which is structural so it's important that you use this when you fit your new bumper shell... :) You should have a fitting kit that came with the bumper... what's in it?

Take the plugs out and turn it on the starter motor... you should be ablet to get it to spin fast and smooth enough to test that sensor properly... 8)

uh... try V6N0 905 865 (17.47 + VAT) comes to £20.53 all in... I think that's the correct part number, I just dug out the receipt... 8) Just ask for an ignition switch, they normally stock 'em 'cos it's the same switch as is used on loads of other VWs... 8)

Both of the 16V engines fitted to Corrados have BOTH a chain and a belt. Belt change is the same to do as a normal 8V engine... 8) The chain drives the inlet cam off the exhaust cam and is on the gearbox end of the cams... If ever you have to do a head rebuild/gasket, then that's probably the best time to replace it... AFAIK VW don't have a set replacement period for the chain. Oh, and it only costs about £8 from GSF! 8)

sheeeesh, that's not good Jim.... :shock: It does sound like it could be an ignition switch problem, and for the £20 it'll cost you to change it, it's not worth risking it doing this again is it? Does your stereo only work when the key is in the ignition? that's the only thing that struck me, as it appeared that you lost ALL power, although it depends how your car is now wired up... :? Change the switch ASAP, it's only a 30 minute job (tops an hour!) and it makes such a difference... 8) As far as I know, it's dealer only, but then, at £20, who cares?!? ;)