Henny

90 degree rule worked every time in around 80K miles on my 16V engines... ;) 8)

rear speakers in a Corrado are 6" x 4" as standard... most major makes have versions available in this size, so have a listen to a few... 8) For the £66 that VW want for a standard pair (probably Nokia) you'll get a nice set of much better ones... ;)

also check the vacuum hose from the throttle body to the ECU... it is vital that this is in perfect condition and is exactly 1 meter long else the engine will run along the lines you describe.... :?

rear disks and carriers are standard, it's only the calipers that have changed, and I painted 'em myself to match the Brembos... ;)

the MKIV rear calipers are a direct replacement for the MKII golf ones that Corrados came with... the only thing you need to get hold of is a different brake pipe as they have a different fitting on them.... 8) I got mine as a kit from C&R in Notts...

right then... I've just been playing on Etka looking for bulbs... ;) 8) the standard dash bulbs on a Corrado are: 3x 12v 1.8w with a blue base across the top of the cluster = 357 919 243B 2x 12v 1.1w with a black base behind the 2 LCDs = 4A0 919 040 C However, there are also some other ones available if you want to start playing with different colours and the like! ;) All of these should be interchangable, but I haven't tried it, so if they don't work, let me know and I'll knock 'em off the list! :) 1.2w = 431 919 040 2w = 893 919 040 A 0.5w = 191 919 243 C and the piece de la resistance! 5W Halogen = 191 919 243 A :shock: 8) The glove box light is a standard "bullet" type bulb, 12V 3W = N 017 726 2 Fag lighter bulb and holder = 191 919 243 B Boot light 12V 5W (Bullet type) = N 017 725 2 Interior light (door) 12v 10w = N 017 723 2 Interior light (map) 12v 5w = N 017 752 2 The heater bulbs aren't shown for either early slider style or later dial style facias... :( Hope this helps... 8)

the major problem with the 1.6 gearbox is that it wasn't designed to take the kind of power that some engines are now putting out... I have a spare gearbox in my parents cellar 'cos I know damned well that the box will give up with the 16V engine pushing the power through it! ;) It all depends on what you want the car for, and what you're planning on doing to it in the future... I think that if I were to rebuild the car with a choice of any box, I'd use the 1.8 8V gearbox on my 1.8 16V engine as this should be strong enough to take the extra power, but have good enough ratios to make for a fun drive! ;) :D

yup, me too Chrishill... I paid £350 for a full downpipe back (including cat bypass pipe!) custom made stainless steel exhaust when I first got my Corrado... :D That's fitted, Inc. VAT, and with life time guarantee... 8)

I've got 'em on the front of my C with MKIV Golf calipers at the rear... 8)

well, having driven a few cars with lightened flywheels(from my old beetle thru my MKI 16V and now my Corrado G60) I can safely say that it's NOT just for track use! ;) It makes a difference in all driving, mostly positive with only a couple of very minor drawbacks... the one that most people will notice is that you have to dip the clutch a little earlier than normal when coming to a stop, else the engine will stall... takes no time to get used to and that's a small price to pay for the extra pick up you gain through the revs... 8)

Nope but my locking valve caps would have most of the little oiks who nick such things stumped for a while! ;) :lol: I'm prettty certain that I've got McGard ones on my Corrado now 'cos I needed a new set that were 10mm longer than standard and these were the best looking (security wise!) that I came across... 8)

Please keep this in one thread... I've answered your other identical one in "problems", so I'll lock this one and we'll keep all the answers in the other thread. Thanks. 8)

v5 is the name of the UK vehicle ownership document.

A 1.6GTI gearbox WILL fit onto a 1.8 engine and will give the car a silly quick 0-60, but will be VERY undergeared... I did this in my MKI when I fitted a 16V engine and the acceleration was mental, but you could redline the engine in every gear and ran out of gearbox at around 120mph... :? hope this helps... 8)

8)

you won't need to weld it... you can even repair it with aluminium tape.... I'm pretty certain that it's made of thin aluminum anyway... That's exactly the kind of repair I mentioned before... thin bit of aluminum with a hole in it which will cover the damaged bit, then use a new clip to hold the repair panel AND the original shield off the exhaust... 8) The clips will break as you take them off, but they're readily available from VAG for pence... 8)

by pins I take it you mean the indicator needles which actually move to point to the speed/levels/revs? On those dials you'll probably get away without doing anything as there is an illuminated ring in the middle of the dial which should hi-light the needles... If not, then the standard red needles glow nicely under UV light, or the white ones can be painted with a UV sensitive paint and then 3 UV LEDs installed (with resistors) instead of the standard 3 bulbs across the top of the unit... 8) Works well, but it may make the white dials glow up too... :?

is this the thin tin plate shield which goes over the top of the exhaust along the whole length of the exhaust tunnel? If it is, you can buy the round spring clip washer efforts which are supposed to hold the shield up for a few pence each from VW and then use either a large washer or a thin piece of aluminium with a hole drilled in it to act as a repair patch which will be held on by the new clip... 8) Works well, stops the rattle, cheap and easy to do and protects the petrol tank as it's supposed to... 8)

check your rear calipers are not slightly seized... if they are rubbing then at high speeds you'll boil the brake fluid in the rears causing a soggy brake feeling... :?

Try the astrali ones... they are a lot wider than a standard bolt with the holes for the lugs around that wider part... you won't be able to hammer a socket onto them 'cos it'll be the same width as the socket... 8) See HERE for details... 8)

halfords also do a type with an inserted shape on the top of a round bolt head... I've just got some for my G60 and they seem quite good... I used to use Astrali locking bolts, which have a set of 4 lugs of different lengths around the outside of a Key which fit into slots on the edge of the face of the bolt... I've used these bolts on my last 3 VWs and they've been really good... AVOID the 3 pin types... They are stupidly easy to undo with one of the "universal socket" things which have lots of spring loaded pins in a round socket.. :?

you can get the origninal one machined down (I have!) to around about half the original weight... Have a word with 16VG60 or Race Power in Dartford who did mine... 8) Makes a nice change to the engine as it allows it to spin up AND DOWN, faster than standard, allowing for faster acceleration and better engine breaking... 8) I'm not sure how much mine cost, but £75 rings a bell... :wink: They also do exchange units... 8)

they're just stuck on with body tape... no holes to fill, but sticky crud to deal with afterwards... :? Heat them up with a hair dryer and they'll come off pretty easily... 8)

yup, about £20 sounds about like what I paid last time I replaced one... 8) They're the same on all watercooled 1.6 to 2.0 VW engines as far as I know.... 8) Just don't try and get one for a 1.3 golf... £80! :| :shock:

Lovely looking car there... 8) The mods suit it well... :) I can't believe that my C has nearly 20 times the milage as yours! :shock: :crazyeyes: