Henny

yup... A blocked fuel filter will starve the engine of fuel and make starting difficult, as well as possibly making the engine run lean at all times... :? Lots of potential hassles, all 'cos of a £7 filter... :? :roll:

How much of a lip is there at the top of the cylinders? in those photos it looks quite big, but that could just be the angle the photo is taken from.... Other than that, it looks OK... 8) yes, it does! :roll: Images are now added onto the end of your post, resized and hosted here for ease... ;) yup... it gets a little warm in there which cooks a thin coat of the oil on... ;) Nothing to worry about there... 8) These should be replaced anyway as the gasket will have been squashed when fitted and shouldn't really be used again, and the oil pipe is probably the original so would have needed replacing to make sure it never broke while the engine was running... The one from the back of the throttle body to the ECU needs to be EXACTLY 1meter long (39" IIRC...) If it's not, your car will drive like a dog... :? Don't forget to change the cam belt (timing belt to you) tensioner too! They're cheap, but make a REAL mess if they ever seize up! :shock: Sounds like a good job, at a reasonable cost too! 8) The rubber O rings will be best bought from your local VW dealer's parts depot... they should be readily available and cost only a few cents as they are used on LOTS of VW engines... 8) Nope, they ARE interference engines... The pistons WILL hit the valves if the engine is turned over without the cam turning... :? Trust me, I know this thru experience... :roll: Hope this lot helps and that you get your car running properly again soon... 8)

Definately the power steering pump pipework.... Don't worry too much about slight oil leaks on them, they're a sod for it.... keep an eye on the overall level in the reservoir (just behind the battery in front of the washer bottle with a red cap on it) and make sure it's always within the limits on it and it'll be OK... 8) From that photo, I'd advise getting a new sump fairly soon (when's the next oil change due?) It's starting to look a little thin at the front where the rust has flaked off... :? Good news is that they're nice and cheap from Euro or GSF! :D

that's just road salt.... if it was coolant you'd know about it in a pretty major and expensive way with it covering that much of the engine! ;) :? Get yourself a can of GUNK and follow the instructions... ;) 8)

completely non road legal in the UK though... :roll: no mirrors, side indicators, windscreen wipers......... :?

change the filter first, they're about a tenner and aren't massively difficult to change... 8) If that doesn't help matters, then it's time to start looking at the more expensive things (pump is around the £100 mark)

It'll definately be injection (either single point or multipoint) and so must have some way of doing the idle stabilisation, but whether this is via an ISV or some other way, I have no idea... :?

probably time to change the fuel filter and see if that cures it... ;) 8)

If I Remeber Correctly 8)

Bummer dude... Not good... :( Hope it all gets resolved for you with as little hassle as possible... 8)

check the wiring onto the ECU... I know of several 1.4 MKIII golfs that have had similar problems due to a loose wire connection onto the ECU... :? also sounds like an Idle stabilisation valve fault, although if a 1.4Golf has an ISV, I couldn't tell you! ;)

MikeVR6? you're on about the VR6 plug LEAD removal tool aren't you? HarrowVW has a 2.0 16V and needs a tool to remove the plugs themselves, the leads should have a handle on the top of 'em to get 'em out on a 16V, it's only the VR6 which needs a tool to get the leads off... :? You're best bet HarrowVW is to go to halfords and buy a cheap plug socket... they should have one that's thin enough to get down the holes in the cam cover and allow you to change the plugs easily... I found on my 16V that I even had to remove the label which was on the plug socket and then polish it so that it would fit smoothly in and turn without catching! Bit of an awkward design by VW there... :roll: Hope this helps... 8)

yeah, that's the stretch bolt :roll: :mad:

I went to Inters for the first time last year... I think my best bargain was getting to drive Dubwhizz's Nile Green Golf G60 Oettinger most of the way back to Skipton while he was asleep! ;) 8) :twisted:

Cheesy, like most of your car, it's not to my taste... :? BUT, again, like most of your car, even in that little photo, it looks like it's been done to your normal superbly high standards and I'd bet it'll get some admiring looks from me even though it's not my taste... 8) :D I can't wait to actually see your car in the flesh... 8)

quick top tip... ;) As you use the knife to remove the polarised sheet, make sure you don't touch it, then stick it onto a sheet of overhead projection clear plastic, cut it out and THEN put it back in reversed... no finger prints or dust... 8) Or you could just cheat like I did and use some new polarised plastic sheets! ;) :lol:

Any colour you like... 8) (blue's a sod to do with just filters though, so you'd probably have to use LEDs instead to get 'em bright enough... ) There's a thread about how to do it kicking about somewhere... Ah, in HERE in fact... :D

is that the pulley that drives the Power steering, or the supercharger/alternator/waterpump? If it's the latter I have a brand new, VAG bagged, one that you can have for slghtly less than it cost inc postage and packing (I'll dig out the VW receipt so you can have that too... ) I used my P/S one on my engine though... :? If there's a vibration down there, I'd get the crank bolt changed ASAP as they make a mess when they snap... :evil: If you do change it, get one from a MKI golf 1800 (DX engine code) It's not a stretch bolt and won't shear off like the G60 ones do... just make sure you thread lock it in! ;)

sounds like the slave cylinder is giving way... :| Check your brake fluid level (the reservoir is shared between clutch and brakes) to make sure it's not getting too low, and then bleed the clutch slave cylinder (exactly the same way you'd do a brake caliper) If this improves things, then it's almost certainly time for a new slave... :? Good luck... 8)

If you're gonna do this, make up new metal pipes... much easier and safer too... 8)

I mod'ed it... :roll: look at the edit at the end of the first post... :lol: 8) Looks well smooth.... I can't believe that you managed to get that done in 6 days... 8)

Oi! :roll: that's my idea! :lol: It's a sod, let me just point that out now... you will be swearing lots as you try and get the cables into the boot lid and down to the spoiler... ;) If you need any tips, just PM me... 8) Oh, and I quite like the aero style filler cap, (I've got one on my MKI golf) but I'm not sure it goes with the look of the Corrado... how about removing it totally and putting the filler cap in the boot?!? about as smooth as you can get :?

Locked at request of thread author who has now bought the G60 and got a discount for the charger rebuild too! 8) Hope you enjoy it Rodney! :D Oh, and I forgot to mention, Welcome to the Forum... :)

reasonable sized Halfords now stock a LARGE range of stereo removal tools... I got a set for my parents Seat Leon when Seat wouldn't sell me one "for security reasons"... :?

I had the injectors on my 16V MKI golf ultrasonically cleaned and the difference was unreal! It went from running mildly lean all the time to being spot on with the fuelling and made her fly like she always should have done... 8) I had tried red-ex injector cleaner in the past with it and it had made a small difference, but that seemed to only last a little while... The ultrasonic cleaning will get ALL the in-grained muck off them and get them back to being basically like new again. 8) The only thing to watch for is that if the injectors are worn as well as being dirty, they may develop a leak after you have them cleaned as the crud you clean out may have been making the seal effective... :? 2 of the 8 injectors I had done (don't ask, long story! ;) ) failed in the test after the clean for precisely this reason... I'd still get it done again if I wasn't gonna replace my injectors with red tops in 1500 miles or so... :D