Henny

TV is a Clarion unit that IS the head unit and is powered out from the standard location and then flips back to reveal the screen... 8) The cold air intake will be hidden behind the mesh if I keep the bumper on, if not it will be hidden behind the normal bumper 'cos I agree it looks a LOT naff, but it works well! ;) I'm not sure if I like the bumper or not... It looks very agressive, but I think it sits too low for my liking and I'm forever gonna be worried about catching it on things once it's painted... :roll: Dunno... I may get a mad half hour on me this week and re-fit the normal bumper I've got for it... We'll see... ;)

Just don't keep it under the arm rest... :roll: :oops: :lol:

Hi all! Right then, my nice new engine will sit and idle nicely for hours on end with the oil temp going nicely upto around 100 and the water temp going to around the same. However, when I drive it, the oil temp drops (as it should having a Mocal on there! ;) ) but the water temp seems to go up a bit more, then drop for a while.... BUT as soon as there is any load put onto the car (I live in quite a hilly place) the temps shoot up and she starts to overheat... Now, she's had ALL new waterpipes, new uprated (blue) expansion cap, a new thermostat, a new water pump, a new uprated slimline fan (which IS switching on at the lower temp from the fan switch) and the old radiator which is getting hot evenly top and bottom... I've junked the original oil cooler, so the oil is now only cooled by the Mocal, and there's a pair of proper VW water hoses in the plumbing to do the bypass of the cooler... 8) She's running 2L of G12+ and 2L of water and she's boiling that lot in the pipes making excess pressure.... There's no leaks or airlocks, she's just getting very hot when under load... The engine starts first time, and is running sweetly, although it's obviously not fuelling correctly... The timing is set to 6deg BTDC at 2250 as per normal spec and I've set the COpot to 850ohm to richen her up to make up for the extra 159CCs and engine mod's she's running with... most sensors are new (blue/black water temp, oil temp, both oil pressures and knock) Anyone got any ideas what could be causing this overheating under load? Any ideas welcome, no matter how simple/over the top they may be... This engine has had a LOT of work done, but this has got me stumped, so I'm open to any suggestions... 8) Thanks...

get a piece of stiff wire, bend a hook into one end and go fishing through the indicator hole! ;) I did exactly the same thing at Santa Pod last year when I got my crystal repeaters and managed to find a wire coathanger to get it out! It's either that, or remove the inner wing liner! :?

went a bit mad with the camera today... see what you think.... 8) I'm still in 2 minds about the front bumper, especially as I can't get the car into my garage without it catching! :? I think I may go back to a standard bumper and sell the RS one on... Dunno yet though.... :?

In the car: 1=blue/white = Speed sensor feed 2= = N/C 3= = N/C 4=brown/red = Ignition live 5=black = +12v to aerial amplifier (switched feed from head unit) 6=grey/blue = illumination feed (to turn on head unit illumination when the lights are switched on) 7=red/white = permanent live 8=brown = earth Check your fuses carefully... the red/white should be a permanent live... :? Hope this helps.... 8)

which side of the wheel was it mainly from? If it's the right hand side, I'd look at getting a new ignition swich to see if that's what got a bit warm... :?

there's a rubber O-ring between the top of the oil cooler and the filter head (bit wot attaches to the block! ;) ) These are known to fail occasionally and will cause a leak in the place you describe... your best bet is to buy both a new cooler and O-Ring (about £20 all in) and fit the new cooler while you've got the old one off... at least that way you KNOW that the cooler's gonna be good for a few years and won't cause any damage by popping... 8)

1.8W bulbs are steeler only (they're blue based ones, they're easy to spot on Etka 8) ) Polarised sheets can be bought from Greenweld electronics for about £6 per 10cmx5cm sheet... you can do both LCDs with one sheet, but it takes some carefull planning as you have to cut the rectangles out at 45degrees to the edges of the sheet else the polarisation won't match up properly.. :roll: Here's a quick preview as promised... 8) Yeah, I know there's a crease in the rev counter... :roll: this is my test set of clocks, the actual ones that are gonna be used aren't finished yet... ;)

Tempest? so if that center pin NEVER gives any reading your CO pot is goosed? This could explain some of my running problems then... :?

woah! There's some work gone in there Jay... Lovely... 8)

8) no problems.... 8)

You won't get any leaks from these as there's nothing under the strips, they just stick on with sticky backed tape... :? Kevhaywire did a "how to" on fitting new ones of these not long ago... 8) Check HERE for details... 8)

Pair of long nosed maul grips (mole grips?) have always done the job for me... they are a little sod though and need plenty of swearing at! ;) There is a special tool for doing them properly, but the only place I've ever seen it was from Snap-on so it had a price tag to go with it! ;) :|

I got hold of some rolls of lighting gel film (one blue, one red) off a mate who works with lighting for a living... you can get it from Maplins for around £5 per roll and it's available in lots of different colours... 8) There's 2 types of bulb in the standard clocks. 1.2W and 1.8W I've changed ALL of mine to be 1.8 now, and I've also now reversed the LCD polarised sheet and I'm gonna wire the 2 bulbs behind it to be powered off the ignition so that they light up as soon as you turn the key... Looks well sweet... I'll put some photos up later when it's a bit darker so you can see the effect... 8) I actually cheated with the reverse LCD thing and bought some polarised plastic sheet and cut that to the correct size to replace the original stuff... I found that as you peeled the old sheet off, it left marks where the glue stretched which looked a bit crappy. With the replacement film, it's black as night with no marks and no finger prints on it 'cos you can just wipe it clean 'cos it's not sticky! 8) Pics will follow... 8)

http://www.eurocarparts.co.uk says: 1.8 16v Cambelt £11.75 Tensioner £17.95 GSF has the same prices... 8) Stealer prices aren't much higher on these parts, and there's not a lot in it quality wise... 8)

in that pic, the top lights are the early ones, the bottom ones (with the surround) are the later ones... The later ones also sit more flush to the face of the bumper than the earlier ones... Cost wise, GPC sell 'em for: FOG LAMP 91>.....................................£55.00 FOG LAMP >91.....................................£39.50

that seems like a reasonable price for FSH and 80K... you may be able to knock the price down slightly by playing the "it's overdue for a £500 charger service" though... ;) If you do get it, make sure that you've budgeted for the charger re-build and get one done ASAP... 8) Good luck!

if you're doing the cam belt, you just need to remove the nut that you have to slacken to de-tension the belt, and instead of just tightening it, you need to put the nut back on, and then tighten it! ;) It's a doddle, exactly the same to do as the 8V engines... 8)

Nice one matey! Good to hear it's going together well for you! 8)

hey? when was this? This is sounding more and more like someone's been joy-riding my car! :shock: :roll: I've even got a black RS style front bumper on at the moment (which could explain any colour identification problems) I've got M3 style rear lights... and I live around that area of the M6... :| The only thing is that Tuesday morning I was driving up to GSF with my starter motor (I was in my golf!) to exchange it for one that worked! ;) :lol: I'm starting to worry about someone cloning my car... :?

Yup, it's a VW... they do things like this occasionally just to annoy the owner... :roll: :lol:

Nah, they definately changed the bearings in mine... I'm sure that they weren't a make I'd never heard of BEFORE I took it there... :? :roll: :wink: To be fair, the porting work that had been done on my charger was pretty good (by all accounts) and they'd even re-weighted the counter weight to take into account the weight of the metal they'd taken off the scroll... 8) Personally, I'm still not 100% that it wasn't just a dodgy batch of bearings/seals that they got as all of the chargers that seem to be giving problems were all rebuilt by them around about the same time... :? Then again, maybe I'm too forgiving... who knows.... ;) :roll:

I don't like the idea of using velcro... I'd be worried some muppet's gonna pull 'em off... :? If you can just pull a plate off that's held on with number plate tape, I wouldn't argue with ya! ;)

£30K?!? what were you trying to insure, a twin jet powered Bugatti conversion or something?!? :shock: