Henny

that's exactly why I've got the TrakM8 in my car... the Cat1 Selca is there to get me insured and so it'll lock the doors off a fob, the TrakM8 is there to tell me when someone is messing with the car, and so I can kill it via a text message if I ever get carjacked... 8)

yup, the switch will cost you about £20 from Volkswagen main dealers or around £15 from EuroCarParts or GSF. It's not difficult to fit one on a Corrado, and if you're a DIY kinda person, it should take you well under an hour... :) Use the search, and there's a thread including a "how to" about them... 8)

The earth strap from the battery would be my first thing to check... :? It's the thick wire which has the actual clamp on the battery molded/welded onto it which then feeds down the back of the battery, then bolts onto the chassis, and continues onto the gearbox... They have a nasty habbit of oxidising (they go green or white and flakey when they do this) and mess about with the electrical systems something rotten... :( Has your car got ABS, and is it Left Hand Drive? If it has both then this is almost certainly an electrical fault...

Change the blue water temp sensor... about £6 from Euro car parts or GSF... Oh, and it only takes about 3 minutes to swap it... :D

there's also the "fudge factor" for the losses in the gearbox that will account for the graphs not crossing at 5250 rpm... :?

yup, all makes sense to me too... 8)

wasn't the Passat engine the 2.8 not the 2.9 like the Corrado's? :?:

I've got a pretty much full tool kit with me... see ya there to laugh along with the audience... ;) :lol: 8)

I've just had a similar problem with my new engine... Test your fan, wiring and switch before changing anything... ;) Here's how... 8) Stand at the front of the car with the bonnet open. Look down the righthand side of the radiator inside the engine bay next to the battery tray. About 3/4 of the way down the radiator there is a brass plug with an electrical multiplug on it. This is your fan thermo switch. 8) Remove the electrical connector, and, with the ignition switched on, connect a piece of wire between the RED wire and the RED/WHITE wire... The fan should start spinning... now disconnect the wire and re-connect it between the RED and the RED/BLACK wire... The fan should start spinning, but quite a bit faster than last time... If this all works, then you have a broken thermo switch. Simply unscrew it, and replace it with another one the same (only not broken! ;) ) They have the temp range they are supposed to switch at stamped into the side of them, so you can identify which one it is you need to get from your list above.... If the previous tests do not make the fan spin on either speed, check that there is +12V on the RED wire which is supposed to connect to the thermo switch. If there isn't then you have a broken wire or possibly a dead fuse. If it only span on one speed, or didn't spin at all, then you've probably got a dead fuse... but here's how to check the wiring and the fan too... If there is 12V on the red wire, disconnect the multi plug from the fan on which there are 3 wires, Brown (-ve) Red/black (high speed +12V) and red/white (low speed and fan run on +12V) Again, with the ignition on, connect a bit of wire between the red and the red/white on the thermoswitch wiring. you should now get 12V between the red/white and the brown on the fan wiring... now do the same for the red and red/black... you should now get 12V between the red/black and the brown on the fan wiring... If you don't get 12V on either of these tests, you have a dead fuse, or possibly a broken wire. If you get 12V on BOTH of these tests, then you need a new fan. :| I found that I was only getting around 8V from either of the 2 feeds to the fan motor which was causing my over heating... I've solved this with a simple wiring loom with a relay... now my fan (which is an aftermarket one anyway) kicks in flat out at the lower temp or on overrun, and is wired to also come on flat out on the higher temp in case the thermoswitch fails on the lower setting so I don't go into meltdown... ;) Hope this all helps... 8) Good luck!

So is the Rallye intercooler bigger than the Golf G60 one then? :? (the golf one just drops straight in with only a mod to the upper front of it needed so the headlamps will fit! )

nope, Audi TTs are still being wiped out left, right and center by dodgy coil pack leads even today... :?

yeah, I ALWAYS take my digital camera out and about when I'm on the beer... ;) Much fun for all... :D Here's Dubwhizz from Dubforce.net as a quick example of why cameras and beer rarely mix... (this was taken by him too! :| )

well, they look priddy... ;) I'd guess that all of the lengths have been calculated to be exactly the same so that you get exactly the same amount of power from each cylinder... 8) (that's just a guess though, and I have been to the pub for lunch! ;) )

Paypal has JUST launched it's new Euro service... expect quite a few more europeans te be jumping onto the Paypal system of paying... 8)

yeah, I'd go option 3 too... although I'd fit the VR6 badge to the grill too for a little bit of difference... ;) 8)

yeah, I know that Jim... :roll: I was wondering what CAR it's in... ;) :lol:

WTF?!? Woah, Bet that took some planning to get it to fit... :| :shock: Wozzat on then?!? 8)

make sure you support the engine when you take the starter motor off, as the long bolts that hold the motor on also hold the front engine mount on! :? :roll:

I'm pretty sure that the Rallye intercooler is the same dimensions as the Golf G60 intercooler, but has different diameter inlet and outlet pipes... The intercooler should fit with a couple of slight modifications to some of the metalwork on the front of the cooler so you can get your headlamps in... no mods to the car needed ;) You WILL need ALL of the rallye pipework though, including the charger outlet (with seal and support bar) rubber pipe from the outlet to the intercooler, rubber pipe from the intercooler to the plastic pipe with the CO pot on it, the plastic pipe with the co pot on it, and the rubber pipe which connects to the throttle body.... As I say, I've never messed with a Rallye intercooler, and this info is only based on my experience with a Golf G60 intercooler which I've fitted to my Corrado... 8)

yup, the bearings and bushes in it are probably dead... time for a new fan... :?

Dexter, I sent you that message after deleting the 6 other versions of this thread from around the forum which included at least 4 comments from other forum members asking for a Mod to delete them... Keeping people informed is one thing, and we all appreciate that, but filling a forum with the same message 7 or 8 times is just uncalled for and annoying to most people who use the forum... You'll find that ANY other forum you care to browse will have similar, if not much harsher, reactions if you did the same thing there... :roll: Try it on VW-Vortex and see what happens! ;) I'm sorry you have taken it so personally and seem to now have some sort of problem with me, but I'd have sent the same message to anyone who had flood posted like you did...

I LOVE that emoticon Duncan! 8) Oh, and Kit-Kat Chunkies REALLY rule!

that's the noise of the starter motor not dis-engaging fully quickly enough after the engine has started... :? (IE the engine is then turning the starter motor) Probably needs taking off and the shaft that the gear slides along cleaning up on the starter... 8) Had the same problem on my 16V Corrado when I first got that... I'd get it done pretty quickly though, as they can damage the ring gear on the flywheel if left like that for too long... :? Good luck... 8)

a touch on the harsh side there munkay... :roll: :lol:

erm... OK... :? :roll: WTF?!?