Henny

Cheers Jim, 8) It's not much of a video, but that was taken about 30 seconds after she came to life... 8) I would have filmed it as she started, but she beat me to it! 8) :lol: :twisted:

moving to body mods (it's not really a tuning or engine mod is it?!? ;) )

Just been chatting on MSN and it turns out that the car WON'T start via the starter switch even when Jump started, but will BUMP start every time... starter motor isn't making any noise at all, and 3 batteries have been tried... I'm putting money on the starter motor being dead now... 8) Time for a trip to GSF for a genuine Bosch one (£80) or Euro for a re-built one (£76) :? Good luck... 8)

yeah, mine's sat morning too... :? Should be interesting on a brand new engine... :|

there is only 2 long bolts to hold the starter motor on... :? It'll just pull out of the gearbox once you've taken them out...

1H was ONLY the 1756cc Rallye engine...

Yeah, that does happen on Corrados too, but that wouldn't explain why it will always start with a jump start... :?

Good luck matey! I'm sure you'll be fine... 8)

Insurance will probably want to replace slam, bonnet , wing and headlamp + paint and Labour... if the quote is less than £1500 for the parts, then it's cheap... :|

The bit under the head lamp is part of the slam panel and isn't just the thin strip you can see.... New ones cost OVER £400 from VW! :shock: It's a huge panel which goes all the way down to the front subframe and across both at the top and below the lights... :? You have my sympathies, but at least you were there to see it and the person stopped, I lost both headlamps, the grille and the slam panel when some muppet reversed into me and then drove off as I chased across the carpark after them... :mad: Hope you get it sorted ASAP with as few problems as possible... 8)

I'm at work!

Rice = Japanese / oriental origin car no rice = Euro cars only (preferably german)

I can host it on Randomlogic.co.uk (my domain) I just haven't had chance to upload it yet... :oops: I'll do it tonight when I get home... 8)

yup and yup... Headgasket is a use once and throw away jobbie, as are the head bolts...

Just booked her in for MOT and timing setup, 9AM on Saturday morning... 8) Roll on the weekend... 8) 68hours 25 mins, AND COUNTING.... ;) :roll: :lol: This plan is, at long last, more than coming together! ;) :norty:

By 'eck, you got that finished off pretty quickly! :crazyeyes: 8) Not sure if I like the styling, but it looks like it's been done spot on, and if you like it then that's all that matters! Good job! 8)

OK, so if it starts first time every time on a jump start, then it's one of two things, the earth strap, or the battery. I detailed the earth strap in my post above, and how to check it with a single jump lead, and YES, a dodgy oxidised earth lead really CAN stop your car from starting... It can also cause you to fry your ECU, cause all sorts of random running problems and just generally be bloody annoying... :?

Are you sure that the oil cooler (directly above where the oil filter gasket seals onto) hasn't ruptured or isn't dented? That'd be my first guess if it's leaking from the same place on more than one filter... :| I take it (I've gotta ask just to make sure! ;) ) that you are putting a thin layer of grease onto the gasket before you fit the filter so that it seals properly and doesn't wrinkle the gasket?

Quite correct, but if there's 12V on the trigger, then it CAN'T be the starter switch! ;) Personally, my bets are on a dodgy earth strap... :roll:

I used Top Marques in Stoke on Trent 'cos a mate who's a mechanic recommended them and they're pretty local to where I live... He normally charges £45 per wheel, but he does do a lovely job... 8)

She WILL be at inters, she may not have been painted by then, but, frankly I don't care about the paint at the moment! ;) :-P I took a video while she was running... I'll post it in a minute once I've uploaded it... :D I'd like to just say a big "THANK YOU!" to everyone who's left nice comments here, and has helped me with supplying parts, advice, or just keeping me sane (or as sane as I ever get! ;) ) and cheering me up when things got tough during this build and helped me to get her this far... 8) THANK YOU ALL! 8) :D

That's the alternator! :? if you look down the below the fan motor, you'll see a pair of cylinders sticking out of the front of the gearbox towards the inside of the passenger side wheel... There's a 13mm nut that holds on 2 THICK red wires (don't touch these!) and then a thinner "red with black tracer" wire which ends in a small plug which clips onto the end of the cylinder. (ringed in red on the pic below!) Unplug this wire, and check it for voltage. There should be 0V on it until you turn the switch to START, then there should be 12V until you let go of the key. If this is OK, then you're looking at either a dodgy earth cable or a new starter motor. To check the earth cable trace the BIG wire from the battery -ve terminal, it should go down the back of the battery and bolt onto the chassis, and then continue on to the gearbox, just above the starter motor. If this looks green and nasty, replace it... it's available from VW and is about £25... A quick check is to put a single jump lead between the -ve on the battery and the bolt that the -ve wire goes to on the gearbox and see if it'll start then... if it still won't then it's a new starter motor (about £83 from GSF for a genuine Bosch one... 8) ) Good luck! 8)

Loud BANG is most likely to be engine mounts... :?

If you're gonna do a 16VG60, start with either a PG or 1H block (G60 or Rallye) They have an improved coolant and oil pipeway system and will take the pressures a supercharger will throw at them... The 1H block (as I've recently found out) is actually a stronger block than the standard PG block and has uprated head bolts, gearbox mounting bolts and oilways so would probably be the best block to use for a 16VG60... the only problem you'll have going this way is to actually squeeze a full 2.0 outta it (again as I've found out on my rebuild)... You can't do a straight overbore to get close to 2.0 as the cylinder walls would be so thin, they'd just crack as soon as you put any pressure in the cylinders.... :? To get a 2.0 you need to change the crank AND overbore slightly, however you then get into problems with the different crank not clearing the oil sprayers (which spray oil onto the bottom of the piston crowns to keep 'em cool) and a whole load of extra engineering work is needed... :| Have a word with John (16VG60) about the options on doing this, and also Alex (aposegil) who has done some pretty major work to a 16V with an eye on super or turbo-ing it and is about to announce what he's done to it over the winter... 8) I'm glad you like a challenge.... you're going the right way to get a good one! ;) 8) Good luck, and keep us all posted on what you get up to with it... 8)

Mine's Aqua blue pearl.... (LC5U) 8) Is dark blue until sunlight hits it when it has a lovely deep purple flick to it... 8)