Henny

Milage is irrelevant! (mine's got 236K miles on it!) If it's a good solid car, don't crush/break it... at least sell it on as a project to someone who want's to put some life back into her... As VR6 says, it's relatively easy to put in a 20Vt, or even just convert yours to a manual gearbox if you can find a written off one... :?

Cool, Cheers Dr_mat, that's pretty much how I thought the law stood at the moment... Thanks... 8) Means that my little device is probably still dodgy, but on the legal side of dodgy then.... ;)

Police don't need to track it... it texts YOU the location, not the police, you just phone 'em up and give them the location of the car, speed, direction etc etc etc and then tell them where it'll stop running! ;) They should then do the rest! :D It's an easy increase in "crooks caught" figures for them... All nice and safe with no high speed chase needed or danger of ramming their cars etc 'cos the engine will be dead! 8)

Radar jammers ARE illegal to own and use as they are broadcasting on a restricted frequency which you need a licence for... there's big fines involved in illegal broadcasting... I'm not sure if you can make laser jammers illegal... They don't broadcast on any restricted frequencies so I'm not sure how they would be illegal to use... :? Anyone know? as this may scupper my plans for an anti-digital speed camera device... :|

I've not heard that, but I'm pretty damned sure that when you tell them the location and speed of the vehicle and that it'll be stopped dead at the next set of lights they choose, they may listen up a little more than usual! ;) Sending it a coded text to kill the engine sounds like a fantastic anti-hijack facility to me! ;) If it's stolen, (you've armed the system and it is move, or the alarm goes off) it'll text you to let you know! you don't have to tell anyone it's been stolen like with a Trakker, the car tells you! :) It remembers it's last positive location and relays that if it can't get a positive GPS location there and then and the car can't be far from that last positive GPS'd location.. 8) It's got a 25 second warm start up time too, so it only needs 30 seconds to get it's new location :D

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/ Should answer your question... 8)

no engine transplant of that magnitude is easy, but it has been done by a couple of people who have posted on here.... It's supposed to be a very good conversion with bags of torque and plenty of BHP as well as returning 50+ MPG! :mrgreen:

Erm, She's in Finland.... :wink:

Dunno about the insurance mate, I've always claimed every mod just in case... :? 2.0 bottom end will not have a KR engine number, so will be recognisable via the engine number as a 2.0 bottom end.... Other than that, they look VERY similar as they can share the same ancilleries... There is a big 2.0 cast onto the block somewhere though, I'm not sure if this is on the front or the back of the block though... :|

stick MKIV calipers on instead... They use the same pads and are alloy and a different design (although they fit the same, the brake pipe is different) so they shouldn't seize up as easily... :)

I did a full bottom end rebuild for about £150 in parts (all bearings, seals and piston rings) using the original pistons and crank/con-rods... I re-hohned the cylnders myself with a friend's hohning tool... I then got the head re-done (new valve seats and guides) for a couple of hundred (including new head gasket set and bolts) and then put new tappets in and a new water pump... All in I think my total re-build cost for my 16V corrado engine was about £450 to put it back to "as new" spec... ....add in about £20 for some paint and some sandpaper, and a shed load of your time and effort, and you can get yourself a VERY nice looking engine that's good for another 100,000 miles! :) I'd probably have done the clutch at the same time, but I'd only done it a couple of thousand miles before I decided to rebuild the engine... so add £90 in there too... 8) OR, if you wanna go silly, you could always get hold of a 2.0 16V bottom end, rebuild that instead of the 1.8 bottom end, put your 1.8 16V head on it, and put that back in... ;) Should be good for around 155BHP... 8) Add in another couple of hundred for the 2.0 upgrade... :)

Cool, I can accept that... I wasn't too sure on that point anyway... 8) I've never had a play with either of the 2.0 versions, so I don't know too much about them (yet ;) )...

sorry, I should have mentioned that in the first post... :oops: :lol:

just buy a Jetta 16V GTI, they're pretty cheap nowadays.... then strip the engine and re-build it so that it's as new... 8)

The 1.8 16V IS a GTI engine, no matter which car it came out of (Passat, Golf/Jetta or Corrado, they were all the same engine)... I'm not entirely sure what you're trying to say there... :? Converting a MKII 1.8 8V GTI into a 16V needs a lot of work (unless it's an early MKII GTI) as the injection systems are totally different. The 8V is digifant electronic injection, the 16V is K-jetronic mechanical injection... Unless you have a very early 8V (which had K-jetronic injection) you'll have to change fuel pumps, fuel lines, all of the engine wiring and quite a few other bits just to get the engine to run properly once it's built... It's not the hours that'd be the problem, it's the fact that it's gonna cost you a bomb to get all the parts seperately when you can just go and spend a lot less on a complete engine.... If it's in a Jetta, it's a 1.8 16V built on a KR block... I bought a complete engine quite a few years ago (all ancilleries and wiring loom included) for around £300... :| I fitted that to my MKI Golf GTI with very few problems as that was K-jetronic as standard... I'm not trying to put you off your project, I just think that you need to talk to a few people to work out exactly what it is you are trying to do and how it's best to acheive that goal.... Good luck... 8) Which bit have you actually bid on? Just the head?

Click the link! ;) Q rated Price: £499.95 incl. VAT Normal Price: £449.95 incl. VAT

yeah, I'd been watching that auction, but decided I wanted to buy a new one... 8)

there are about 10 or 15 x 10mm headed bolts along the inside of the spoiler that hold it on... it's as simple as jacking the front of the car up, undoing the bolts, pulling the old one off and then putting the new one in it's place and replacing the bolts... about 20mins work, tops... 8)

I got bored about 1:30 so I ordered my TrakM8... :roll: :lol: It'll be here before noon tomorrow... 8) ( It comes with an Orange SIM in it in case anyone was wondering...) I phoned up the retailers to ask what the difference between the Q rated one, and the non Q rated one was, and the guy couldn't tell me except the Q rated one is £50 more... :? I went for the none Q rated one in the end 'cos I had a word with my insurance company first and they said it'd make no difference on my existing policy as I already have a recent Cat1 alarm, so it's more for my peace of mind anyway... I'm also gonna wire it into my alarm so it can text me if the alarm goes off, and I can text the car if someone ever hijacks it and turn the engine off... 8) :twisted: :lol: The best bit about it is that the only subscription you need is for the phone part which is a Pay as you go jobbie.... pay for the unit and the installation and then that's it except for the calls 8)

These days it's much easier just to put the complete 16V engine in rather than mess about putting a 16V head, different pistons, 16V dizzy, 16V oil pump drive and quite a few other bits onto an 8V block... :roll: I personally think that you'll struggle to get much info on doing this conversion... it's possible to do it, but no one's doing it anymore 'cos there's no point with scrap yards having good, complete 16V engines for under £150! :?

VR6 (and 2.0 8 and 16Vs) have the later MKIII golf based (rather than the earlier G60 and 1.8 16V's MKII based) front suspension which is known as the "plus" suspension. In theory the plus suspension should handle slightly better than the non-plus suspension, but I doubt anyone would ever notice the difference... :? Both G60 and VR6 handle along very similar lines, although some people say the G60 has the slight edge on handling due to the lighter engine... 8)

wheel bearings whuurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr and make your brain hurt... ;) (guess who's got a dodgy one at the moment! ;) ) The faint knocking noise is almost certainly the driveshaft vibration Damper which will have come loose and will be clonking against either the inner or outter CV joint ... Have a look HERE for details.... 8)

I'm looking into getting a tracker device installed into my Corrado seeing as I've spent a shed load on it and don't want it going walkies without me... ;) The one that's winning in my opinion at the moment is the Maxon Trak M8 which also has some nice other features as well as the real time tracking element to it.... 8) Anyone got any experience (good or bad) with any of these types of device?

I'll lock this thread seeing as there's nothing new in here that the search wouldn't have shown... :roll:

That's a NICE spray booth... 8) you should get a quality finish in there if your spray man is good... :)