Henny

Oops, I forgot about this thread! Sorry.... :oops: Here ya go... 8) Tightening torque: engine cold tighten in sequence to 40 Nm (29 ft lb) tighten in sequence to 60 Nm (43 ft lb) tighten in sequence additional 1/2 turn (180) further in one movement (two 90 turns are permissible) remove cylinder head bolts in reverse sequence Hope this helps... 8)

depends which bit breaks first! ;) I tend to work along these lines: Brakes -> suspension -> exhaust -> engine -> interior -> ICE -> exterior 8)

Apparently it IS possible to remove the clear part from the black part, as you'd have to do this to fit these aluminium/carbon fibre clock surrounds... I have no idea how you'd do it though, and be VERY careful if you do try it as the clear plastic is well glued in and quite fragile! :?

that 12V convertor provides the AC power which the reverse glow dials need to work. You'll also need to buy the gauge faces too which are the actual bits which glow (standard ones don't! ;) ) If I remember correctly, the faces come as a kit with an invertor included... It's probably worth phoning 'em and asking 'em... ;) As long as they do them for the mechanical counter clocks, you're laughing then as they are American spec, they will just fit straight on and have the markings in the correct places too.... 8) Go for it! :)

Wow! Excellent photos of some lovely cars there... 8)

have you got 2 LCD displays on the clocks, or one LCD and mechanical milage counters? I've yet to see any of the mechanical milage counter style backlit dial faces anywhere as most Corrados came with the later twin LCD style dashboard... :| I'm pretty certain that all G60s came with the twin LCD display with electronic milage counter though... However, the backlit displays are american and have different speedo numbering on from the UK spec speedos, so if you buy one, your speedo will always be wrong unless you get it re-calibrated... :? There's a group buy going on HERE for these here which will be the correct markings for UK cars.. it's a bit of a monster thread though! ;)

JBL and Infinity are both made by the same manufacturer (Harman Group)... which is, IMHO, the best manufacturer of quality, reasonable price, mass produced speakers... 8) JBL are aimed at a slightly different market to the infinities, and you've hit the nail on the head about the Infinity's being more refined than the JBLs in a showroom environment... In a car, there's not a huge difference... 8) Glad you got sorted out... 8)

It's tricky, but it IS do-able with the boot shut... :) Drop down the rear seats, and then you should be able to see (with a torch! ;) ) the clips around the top of the trim panel. These unscrew and then the panel will drop into the car at the top, then lift off the bottom retaining clips... 8) Odds are there's either a leak in the pneumatic hose to the unlock actuator or it's all gummed up inside and needs greasing....

Jammy sod! Enjoy your new car... 8)

Isn't Ramair a Foam based filter anyway? Don't run a foam filter on a G60 or you'll kill the charger as they don't filter fine enough for the supercharger's tollerances... :|

Dubprince's car looks identical to the colour of mine which is definately Aqua Blue Pearl Effect... :|

I've kept the standard size pulley as I don't want to run large amounts of boost with my new engine... The charger has been seen to by Jabba to stage 4, and then cleaned up and port matched to my new Golf G60 outlet by Darren (as well as being properly rebuilt this time! ;) ) My new engine is running a slightly higher than stock compression ratio which will mean that any boost that goes in will be more affective than on a normal compression ratio, hence sticking with the stock size.... Also, the pulleys on mine are run off a toothed belt system, so I will never have problems with the drive belt slipping at higher revs and should be able to take the engine right up to the redline if I want to so I can squeeze every last bit of power out of it without risking over-revving the pulley.... Sticking a smaller pulley on is a good way to get more power out, but you have to make sure that you keep a good eye on the servicing intervals so your charger stays in good condition.... 8) Some people (like myself) are doing some quite high milages and don't want to have to rebuild the charger twice a year, so stock helps keep the costs down...

How much for this kind of set up, considering i'll need all 6 speakers and maybe some wiring too? Also what is an infinity bass link?? Is it a combined amp/sub?? Cheers guys for all your replies Rear JBLs were about £35 Fronts were about £75 (all 4 and crossovers included!) and my Basslink was £145

yup, I'm with you Tattie, Original fit JBL GTOs in the rear, Component JBLs up front (standard size in the door, tweeter in the dash) and an Infinity Bass link in the boot... 8) Sounds lovely.. :D

I couldn't work that one out either... but I've since read that it's part of the catch mechanism.... 8)

yeah, you can do it that way, but some of the presses that garages have aren't big enough to get the whole thing into to press the bearing out/in with the strut in the way... :|

what? a bit like that? ;) (oh and you forgot to add in Storms and Campaigns to the VR6s which are actually more common on the forum! ;) ) I'm running stock size, but toothed... 8)

yeah, that'd scare the hell outta them when they opened the door! ;) :lol:

you need a somewhat serious hydraulic press to do the front wheel bearings... they need to be pressed out and then the new ones need to be pressed in... Not difficult, but you can't do it without a press... Bearings aren't too dear, and the labour shouldn't be too much, 3 hours to do both sides top, but then you'll need the tracking doing afterwards... :|

DelCorrado right click, save as.... 8)

that's 'cos I'm getting to the point of thinking I should write one! :| I really am getting to the stage where I reckon I've undone and re-tightened just about 90% of the nuts and bolts on my car now, and replaced about 75% of the bits that move and wear out.... :?

well, the pipe that is there at the moment is where VW test the exhaust for Lambda and CO content when the car has a cat to make sure it's running OK, and I can't see them putting a pipe like that in the wrong place... ;) I understand what you're saying though... 8)

8) It's a bit of a ball ache to get the old ones off and involves undoing the bolt that holds it on and then smashing 7 colours outta it to get it out of the hub... IIRC you have to remove the wheel and disk so that you can see what you're doing and get some room to swing at it... be VERY careful not to hit the slotted rotor in front of the sensor else you'll have to replace that too... :| It's not difficult, but you do need to be careful not to damage anything else... 8)

nah... Porsche did it first...

if it dances like the one in your sig, I'd say it was a pretty suspect dodgy banana! ;) :lol: